NoBrainer

Mini-Z is a great RC hobby.
Kenon don't have the time to elaborate on what the different things improve. For that you have forums like mini-zracer(dot)com and this forum.
But alu motor mounts helps with cooling your motor. So you don't loose power.
ball bearings for greater precision and less resistance when running.
t-bar, springs, dps, tri-damper and top damper is to get traction in turns, so you get more speed..
Differentials are also for getting more speed trough the corners.

1) get a PN 64-pitch ball diff. easier to adjust than gear diff. easier to maintenance. and you get parts.

2) Some of the fastest cars uses only DPS. So with PN #4 - #6 t-plates and a DPS with something like 1000-5000 grease on the DPS will get all you need and want. If you use anything else than RCP or Kyosho, you will have to figure out how to get traction all by yourself. With RCP / Kyosho tracks, there are tires that really works great. And setup you can copy from others. TinyRC got RCP last I checked.

3) The length and width of the car has much to say how it performs and how easy it is to drive. 98mm wheel base is the easiest to start with.

4) If you wan to race your buddys, agree on a motor all should use. Like 50T (brushed) og 5500kv (brushless) and fix gears, like 53T spur and 10T pinion.

TPDazzle

Thanks for the quick reply and advice NoBrainer! I hope I get enough friends hooked to actually need to set up some motor and gear specs! Right now it is only my two lonely Sports. So I suppose we will be limited to a PN 70t Stock motor from what I understand about the cheaper sport boards.

One question: I am sure you are right about sticking with a PN diff. Parts support and customer service is a huge factor. Why is 64 pitch preferable? I know a lot of the racers use it, but I don't really know why. Is it just a better range of gear ratios, or is it smoother as well?


Thanks again!

NoBrainer

not "or", it is "and"....

a better range of gear ratios AND it is smoother. Less noise when set up ok and not too worn out.

It it's only your cars, then you of course can deside what to run. But 70T / 3500kv with 53T spur /12T pinion is a great start.
But to be honest, it is the springs / dampers and tires that do all the magic.
You can bling up you cars as much as you want, but much of it wont help you.

But 98mm wide cars is much easier to drive than 86mm narrow cars.
So Ferrari 458, Audi R8 and McLaren (?something?) which is 98mm wheelbase, MM (mid mount motor) and with a wide front, will be one of the best options for going fast.


This is one of my cars, GT Modified with a brushless PN 9500kv motor and a wide double a-arm front and a DPS. I don't have time to find these setups, so I get help from the fast guys to figure out what will help me.

HugoW

Eh, why would you think it's a clone? It says Kyosho on the transmitter, that would be quite a bold move for a clone... Please educate me.

[EDIT] OK, I see some differences with the real thing like the screws sunk into the covers on the Kyosho and not in the one I posted... Bummer[/EDIT]

Cheers,

Hugo

mleemor60

iTrader: (28)

The biggest give away is the "X" molded into the top cover. That was an old I-Waiver trademark. Remarkably the entire chassis and attachments were interchangeable. The plastic wasn't as good and the electronics that were not up to snuff either. They had their place though.

HugoW

Ah, OK, thanks. I don't know what's hidden underneath the Kyosho sticker, could have been an X shape as well. I just learned I cannot take part in the races with a clone, so I'm back hunting for a rear Kyosho.

Cheers,

Hugo

mleemor60

iTrader: (28)

Are you limited by rules to a specific body, wheelbase, motor, etc?

HugoW

Not that I am aware. I't not a very official championship, but I cannot use clones (duh...) Lexan bodies and I am not allowed to solder on more / non Original FETs. We must use Original Kyosho parts only, inlcuding tires.

I am bidding on some MR-03 cars on a Dutch version of e-bay, now. Got no deal, yet.

Hugo

HugoW

Close to a deal:



It says racer on the box, I like that... I think it's an 02, 27Mhz. Right?

Hugo

NoBrainer

You want to race with a mr-02 AM? Glitches and poor response. Not that easy to get chassis parts anymore. For fun it's OK. For racing NO.

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

I agree. Even in my basement mini track I get too much glitches at the other end of the track. Unless you are a collector, I would say pass.

mleemor60

iTrader: (28)

The car in the photo appears to be a MR-01. The fact that it comes with that radio reinforces it. Valuable as a collectors item? Maybe. For racing? Definitely not. Although they were successfully raced 10 or more years ago they are currently obsolete. Parts availability is extremely sketchy at best. Since it appears that you are looking for "ready sets" I will look up some numbers and PM you.

HugoW

Bummer. It looks like I will need to take a deep breath and buy a new set. Everything I can find below new-price is not 2.4GHz...

I don't necesarrily need a ready set, this just looked like a decent deal. I made the mistake thinking the Racer version only came with an MR-03 chassis, but that is obviously not the case.

Cheers,

Hugo

mleemor60

iTrader: (28)

A brief history of the Mini-Z excluding the AWD and F-1 chassis configurations.

In the beginning there was the MR-01AM. Narrow chassis, stacked batteries and rear motor configuration. No built in braking, just reverse. It had no built in servo saver so the slightest impact would cause servo gear failure and then require the upgraded gears for improvement. Limited to the narrow bodies. Viper, Cobra both versions and others of that era.

MR-02AM. Wide(er) chassis layout. Batteries lowered and installed side by side for improved handling characteristics. Different "T" plate style and arrangement allowing for use of multiple motor mount configurations. Built in servo saver for durability. Enhanced electronics with drag brake added. New assortment and range of bodies for the new configuration. Over all a much superior product. However, it did not accept a lot of the earlier narrow bodies.

MR-015AM. Used the 02 electronics and rear chassis capabilities of the revised 02 but with a narrower front end to allow for the use of more of the original bodies.

MR-02 2.4ASF. Same as the 02 chassis but with enhanced electronics. A huge step forward electronically with multiple "fet" layers for more power and durability but with an annoying time lapse between forward and reverse selection after panic brake applied. At this point Kyosho came out with a setting card system that allowed for a myriad of electronic tuning settings and a reduction of the dreaded double tap boogie that people disliked so much.

MR-02 2.4ASF LM chassis cars. The LM's were identical to the 02's except for the newly designed low mount(read LM) with a damper plate at 102mm wheelbase which allowed for the introduction of the LeMans type bodies. This chassis configuration is the best handling and easiest to drive(right out of the box) platform that Kyosho has produced and is the favorite of most "box stock" racers due to the inclusion of the damper plate. This "LM" platform has carried on through the 03 and now 03S series cars.

MR-03 2.4ASF. The 03 is another attempt at including all the old narrow bodies for the purest's while providing the best chassis configuration to date for all applications. The revised front end which in effect changed the platform from an old "king pin" style front end to a more modern "ball joint" type set up and an improved "T" plate arrangement that allowed for a narrower middle chassis and greatly lowered "polar moment of inertia" for crisper but perhaps edgier handling package. Although everything on the front half of the chassis is new the rear will still accept all of the aftermarket bling that was introduced for the 02.

MR-03 2.4FHS Sports series. Chassis is identical to the original 03. The exception is in the electronics. The "S" series cars now have a less enhanced "fet" package which though adequate doesn't allow for the use of motors of 50 turns or less without jeopardizing the electronics. The Kyosho X-Speed motor(53-54T?) will give you all you want on most circuits. The switch over to this FHS package is rumored to have occurred due to a parting of the ways between Kyosho and KO Propo. it appears that Flysky is now handling the electronics. This is evidenced by the fact that the Kyosho KT432P radio and the Flysky IT-4 radios are identical however the KT432 will switch to left hand use while the IT-4 will not. Either way, in order to optimize the 03 "S" chassis it is a good investment to consider.

MR-03S2 is nothing more than a standard 03S with a port for a gyro which for racers is of no benefit.

There may be some omissions and a few errors but this is the gist of the evolution of the vehicle. Hope it helps.

HugoW

Marvelous, thanks!