mbykerman

iTrader: (47)

Thanks for the info. I have to work tonight, but will start adjusting on it tomorrow. It is Loosing it off throttle turning into the corner at the end of the straight. I have to ease it through and can't attack the corner like I would like. Even easing into and through the corner I can run low 5s and high 4s, but could probably get into the mid 4s if I could attack it.

Scionara05

iTrader: (2)

if it's off throttle only means u have to much turn in grip. A stiffer front spring would help in that department to not let the front bite to much if it's still doing it go with a stiffer tire. U want to get the car to push when u crank and give it gas into the corner to exit.

mbykerman

iTrader: (47)

I am going to get some harder tires. Want to try the kyosho tires. Only have the PN ones cause they work so well on my rwds. If order tonight they probably won't be here until Wednesday or Thursday.

EMU

iTrader: (3)

I don't remember what offsets that body uses, but it should be able to fit a wide front end with a 0 - 1mm front offset. I would go that route, and use a PN medium or firm front tire with a stiffer front spring. Rear tire you can try a super soft, with AWD cars sometimes it can cause rollover when the rear starts to chatter, but on AAA, I think soft should be enough traction. On AWD, I prefer the f-type rear tire 8bet the standard tread, the rounder sidewall and tread pattern promotes more rotation with less chatter.

a little glue on the front sidewall can help if it is still rolling.

I think a 5500kv motor would be better suited to the small track, on AAA cells, I think the 3500 would be too slow.

in general with AWD, chatter is your worst enemy. Reducing causes of chatter can help the car maintain good rotation without rolling. Applying grease to the lower front kingpin and rear upper kingpins with the standard coil over kingpin setup can change how the car handles considerably. If you don't have the rear tires fully taped to the wheels, that could definitely be a contributing factor.

AWD is quite sensitive to tire diameter, especially because both front and rear axles are directly linked. A difference in rollout can between the two changes how it handles considerably, especially because there is no central differential.

When the suspension compresses, do any tires touch the body? This would lead to abrupt traction rolls on hard corners. (Check with front wheels turned as well). The narrow front end will have more sweep of the wheel when turning, which could lead to clearance issues above what the wider kingpin position with lower offset, it also develops more scrub which can lead to rollover. A stiffer front spring would transfer less mess forward and laterally in the front, reducing clearance concerns and front traction off throttle and on the brakes.

EMU

iTrader: (3)

I ran the 2500kv on my GLR on 2S.

I think it should make an excellent spec motor for F1. And even a good enough open motor on small to medium sized circuit or one with low traction. It feels like driving a 70t/3500kv AAA car more or less with its power level.

I would like to test it in a mini-z on 2S at the same weight as a AAA car and see how it feels there hopefully in a few weeks that can happen.

mbykerman

iTrader: (47)

Thanks for the help. Ordered some more tires and different offsets of wheels to work with. Also going to try and smooth out the suspension more.

zxcvb1t

Hi, does anyone have a ball diff like this? I searched for a while and the closet match are from pn racing and x power. However, neither of their diff is anodized in blue. The seller is offering the diff for around 12 bucks so I need more info before buying it or passing it. Thanks.

David

superfly05

Looks like an old PN diff. I'd just take it apart to check on the condition of the bearings and plates. If still serviceable, I'd say it's worth about $10-$12. A new one starts at $35.

zxcvb1t

Thanks superfly. Do you happen to know if anything on a pn's diff is compatible with kyosho's diff. It would be nice if the diff ball and bearings are of the same sizes.

superfly05

They are pretty much interchangeable, though sometimes I've had to sand just under 1mm from the aluminum hub part on the Kyosho diff to accommodate 64p spur gears. Which I highly recommend, btw (64p gears). If the plates are worn, you can either flip them or sand them down. Basic ball diff structure hasn't changed since MR02 days, and is mostly interchangeable and serviceable, so you can always replace any of the components fairly cheaply. The ball size is typically 3/32". The stock spur gear pitch is 48p I believe, and those spurs usually don't have a bearing where it meets the axle, whereas most 64p gears do.

mugler

iTrader: (3)

The blue diff is a QteQ unit, they're made in Japan I belive...discontinued at this point. Reflex Racing used to carry the line.
Great piece but for me to get it working smoothly had to install a few I think 4mm shims on the outside housing to prevent the spur bearing touching it when using a PN spur

EMU

iTrader: (3)

Definitely a qteq part's set, with what looks to be GPM gears... the qteq parts were good, and kyosho diff rings were compatible. The kyosho rings were the hardest and flattest rings available at the time, so the final could be used for more time before a rebuild.

they needed some modification to use PN spurs. Facing the internal hub on the left diff half to be flush with the diff ring, and some spacer on the right to center the spur. I still use some of these differentials, actually have one in my 98mm GLR because I didn't want to waste time building the diff when I built the car.

when i build any differential which uses non keyed rings, I always glue the ring in place to prevent it slipping. I place the ring on the pressure plate, apply a dab of glue on each of the stars edges, then lightly spin the ring while holding constant pressure. This ensures that the ring sits flat on the pressure plate, and won't slip.

I used to use all qteq parts on the left side of my F1 diffs, while using the standard F1 half on the right. The qteq parts are considerably lighter than the kyosho. This would balance the rotational weight between the sides better, anf the car would then accelerate straight off the corner more, reducing the left side tweak that the F1 was known to have.

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

mugler

iTrader: (3)

Yes they do work with the plug in with all Kyosho 2WD boards except for RWD ( that one straight to tabs)..also will work plug in with all stand alone receivers.

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)