EMU

iTrader: (3)

Not sure what functions the radio has, but positive throttle curve may help increase the responsiveness of the trigger. I use punch and throttle curve on my helios too dial in the feel of the stock motors. I like most of my throttle input to be before the 50% throw on the trigger. This makes it easier to keep momentum, and has more similar feel to a modified car when pulling the trigger.

I have wired up quite a few if the clone boards, and swapped electronics to upgrade old AM cars to ASF. It isn't difficult soldering, but can be a little small. A vice if sorts can make it much easier to hold the electronics package in place, and good needle nosed pliers or tweezers help to hold the wires. Proper tinning of the wires and pads make it much easier to do the job.

Buzzsaw46

I did try some positive expo on the throttle but he said he couldnt feel it so we'll need to play with it some more.

I need to convince him to get an ICS adaptor to get more tuning ability.

EMU

iTrader: (3)

The ICS adapter is very useful, I would argue more useful than a fancy controller for the car's that support it. Especially for the VE cars which come programmed very conservatively with their steering and throttle settings.

Buzzsaw46

I would tend to agree. There are limits to what can be tuned with out access to the ESC software.

mleemor60

iTrader: (28)

The Kyosho program is pretty good. You just need a way to read it. One of the DC/Remnant group through Bye-Bye created a dongle for the car that will then talk to an Android note pad to make the changes. Gene, get in touch with Chris and see what you can learn.

superfly05

Have you posted a rundown of your typical VE or ASF ICS settings somewhere? I'd be interested in learning your approach. The documentation or even editorializing on the software is sketchy at best.

TeamDrax

Ok cool. Thanks! I've soldered up some 16x16 micro boards so I'm confident. Only run Spektrum and am going to purchase a mini z for a LHS that runs a dirt track and a nice size mini track.

LJH

iTrader: (2)

Chassis width question.

I just received my $21 Celica GT4 Auto Scale body from Japan, always amazes me that I get packages in the same time from Japan or the West coast via UPS. Anyhow the Celica was meant for the MA015 chassis and says that the front wheels should be 2.5N's and the rears 0W's. I tried it out on my 90MM wide MR03 Chassis with 0N's on the front which are pretty perfect and 2W's in the back which stick out a huge amount. I tried some 1W's I have and it was still better but thinking that either 0W's or even -0.5W might be better in the back.

I have to imagine that the MR03 chassis is "X" MM's wider then the MA015. Do any of you guys know what the correlation is between the two? I would like to know what the offset should be.

Cheers,
Jim

magnum_junior

Update: Stainless king pins are in it with a dab of petroleum jelly. Left front spring changed to a red, the car came with greens so I left the right one on.
Out of all the diff grease options, which would be recommended for a 10x24' low pile carpet oval running silicone tires? I have a ton of choices from petroleum jelly, kyo high durability ball diff grease, 15 & 30k, the ruby lube isn't here yet. But as you can see, too many choices!
Whats the best way to get a little tweak in the rear? Something is funky with the center shock, as if the eyelet isn't screwed onto the shaft straight. Might be my imagination but flipping the eyelet over has helped influence the way the shock wants to lean when compressing.
That's all the questions for now,
Thanks!

mleemor60

iTrader: (28)

If it is not petroleum based I wouldn't use it. You want to lube everything as well as deter freewheeling. As far as inducing tweak I would start simply by reverse staggering the car. Simply install a larger diameter on the inside rear than goes on the right rear.. If that takes you in the direction you want to go you can start to use different thickness washers under the T-plate where it joins the motor pod on the right side so when you lift the rear of the car in the center.

magnum_junior

Thanks yeah I packed it with vaseline. I have another stock spare diff I can try one of the others with and swap it out at the track to see differences.
The tires are brand new and dont think the silicones will grind too well.
I'll definitely play with washers on the right side of pod then.

mleemor60

iTrader: (28)

The silicone tires will wear quite quickly so it will stagger itself in a short time. Once again. Do not use silicone "grease" in the diff. It has no lubricating properties and is more apt to cause damage than help anything. There are different types of petroleum based lubricant with various viscosities. If plain old Vaseline isn't enough try smaller amounts of Reel Butter. It is a true waterproof lubricant used on fishing reels. Should be able to find it at Bass Pro or similar shops. Also there is Associated black diff grease..

LJH

iTrader: (2)

EMU

iTrader: (3)

these are my base settings that I use on the 2wd chassis. AWD I use more punch for the steering, otherwise steering is slow.



KWT made a bluetooth adapter. Now, it seems that the adapter is readily available in a near identical fashion from kenon or banggood. This is what I use.

the default settings on the VE ICS are very conservative, not race oriented in any way.

superfly05

I've been using the banggood BT adapter, and managed to get all the software to run on a Kindle Fire.

I found it was too difficult to do it on a computer at home, where I'd drive at the track, make a change, wait two weeks, drive again. Need to be able to update/test immediately.