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Old 12-28-2006, 03:20 AM
  #166  
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Looks sweet Scotty. If I am not mistaking that red one has standard receiver and speedcontroller in it. Am I right Scott.
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Old 12-28-2006, 03:40 AM
  #167  
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Originally Posted by Afro Puff
Oh, anyone wanna translate this for me?

http://www.robitronic.eu/elements/ap...calpeltips.pdf

English, plz, kthx
try here @ Adobe Language Conversion

info down the page

haven't tried it yet though

have emailed Robitronic to see if it's coming out in English to
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Old 12-28-2006, 04:07 AM
  #168  
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Has anyone else noticed that the Scalpel body fits the M18, rather well actually. Of course the rear wheel openings won't be exactly where the cut out line is but when is it ever.
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Old 12-28-2006, 06:45 AM
  #169  
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I tried to convert the German to English for the PDF but it did not work... ANyone else try and have success?????? I am spinning my wheels
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Old 12-28-2006, 05:11 PM
  #170  
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1. Differential The SCALPEL differential works with the greases contained in the component system best. However some points are to be considered, in order to ensure as optimal a function as possible.
A. Use only little differential fat for the differential balls. Too much fat impairs the operation smoothness and it collects too much dust in the differential, which remains sticking to the fat.
b. Pay attention to the correct installation direction of the diaphragm springs. Only then an optimal spring action and thus optimal adjusting of the differential pre-loading are possible.
C. Attract never the stop nut/mother of the right rear wheel firmly. Turn, as in the building guidance wrote back the stop nut/mother a half revolution. If the stop nut/mother is too firmly tightened, those becomes Differential effect impaired and the differential becomes too difficult to operate.
D. Attract the stop nut/mother for differential attitude so far that the differential straight does not slip any longer through, if you accelerate. With the installation of a stronger engine (BL) it is advisable to close the differential very strongly otherwise the Model can break out with accelerating.
2. Front wheels Pay attention when the assembling to perfect operation smoothness of the front wheels. Loosen the wheel nut if necessary something, in order to grant the operation smoothness. Control regularly the operation smoothness of all stored parts.
3. Reduction of the play in the front knuckles Caused by production it can be possible that here something play within the assembled knuckle available is.
A. Degrease the metal parts, like wheel axle and the socket for steering axle.
b. Give generously screw locking means on the outside surface of the socket for steering axle.
C. Give screw locking means likewise to the cross hole of the wheel axle.
D. Now you install the wheel axle and the socket for steering axle with the knuckle.
e. Remove they carefully the out-stepped screw locking means in all places of the knuckle.
f. Wait, until the screw locking means is completely hardened.
g. Now you install again everything into your SCALPEL and examine you finally everything for optimal low-friction keit. Remove if necessary further out-stepped screw locking means carefully with a tinkering measurer, in order to ensure again optimal operation smoothness. To Tips´n cheat In order to have and the optimal performance on the distance bring maximum fun with your SCALPEL, we give you valuable tips to the assembly, for vehicle tuning and suggestions on the installation of the RC-components. Give generously screw locking means on the outside surface of the socket for steering axle. Give screw locking means likewise to the cross hole the wheel axle Remove they carefully the out-stepped screw locking means in all places of the knuckle. Wait, until the screw locking means completely hardened is.
4. Avoidance of wedging knuckles. Examine regularly the operation smoothness of the knuckles on the steering axle. Too firm tightening of the stop nut/mother knows the operation smoothness beeinträchten. Loosen the stop nut/mother if necessary somewhat.
5. Solving knurled nuts Vibrations while driving can lead to the fact that the knurled nuts of the friction disk absorption and the shock absorber separate independently. This can lead to the loss of the knurled nuts. Give therefore before that Assembly somewhat centralfirm screw locking means on the internal thread of all knurled nuts.
6. Akkuhalterung Regrettably an error in-crept into the building guidance. The Akkuschnallen has differently large drillings. The smaller drilling should belong on the inside of the chassis, so that the inside are pressed in firmly here can. The outside drilling is somewhat larger, thus the pin low-friction to the Akkuwechsel to be pulled out can.
7. Servo size The optimal servo size is 30x30x12mm (H/L/B). Drilling distance 36mm. We obtained optimal results with the Hitec HS81MG-Servo. This sits as it were, as cast-on in SCALPEL. If you do not cut your servo „“want, in order to sink it completely in the chassis, you can put also simply according to wearing parts between slab and servo mounting plate.
8. RC-installation With a vehicle of this category and size a clean installation of all RC-components is very important. Avoid cable confusion. Use cable straps, in order to grant a clean installation of the wiring. Lots hanging around Cables and patch cords can affect the handling negatively. Avoid contact between cables, plugs and the body.
VERY MUCH IMPORTANT!: Cables it the engine so that the power Pod can move in all directions always low-friction and freely. Above all, if the body is installed! Large plugs, or to thick (or with BL-systems too rigid Cables) can impair the freedom of movement of the power Pods, and/or at installed body into certain direction to pressure. This leads to an incalculable handling and a very bad straight line discharge.
9. Akkus solder Use excluding Akkuverbinder for 2/3A cells, in order to ensure a perfect function. Cables it your Akkus so, as it is to be seen in the picture. The Akkus should be always low-friction with something play in the SCALPEL Akku mounting plate fixed, in order a possible forgiven/vertweaken to avoid.
10. Optimal installation of a Brushless system If you liked to use a BL-system into your SCALPEL, need the special BL-Motorträger (RA2069), if it concerns an BL-engine of the MAMBA/TEKIN system. In the picture is a TEKIN RISE UP BL-system in the SCALPEL. This fits in problem-free the vehicle, if one before removes the automatic controller housing and then the automatic controller with heat shrink sleeve shrinks. In order to reach a clean and a wiring, the power switch was removed from the automatic controller and replaced by a short bridge. Likewise the plugs between engine and automatic controller were removed and soldered directly.
11. Vehicle tuning For all, which have few, or no experience with the attitude of such a motor vehicle type, we have here some important fundamental tips for vehicle attitude. TWEAK Important is here the correct sequence of the steps, in order to adjust the Tweak of the SCALPELS correctly. Only so one can adjust and straightforward driving a vehicle which can be controlled easily.
A. Front axle: Adjust with the help of the suspension rebound movement delimitation set-screws the suspension rebound movement in such a way that the front wheels have for instance 0°Grad fall.
b. Guarantee that the initial stress in the spring is on the left and on the right about alike.
C. Place now the rear chassis lower surface on one approx. 10mm to high parallel article. Lower now the front axle slowly. Make sure that both front wheels at the same time the soil affect. Otherwise, places it the appropriate wheel with the suspension rebound movement check screw after.
D. Examine after attitude the camber of both front wheels again, if this changes to have should.
e. Set now the vehicle to a straight underground and examine you whether the clearance is somewhat alike in front and in the back. Optimally approx. 3-4mm is clearance. Change if necessary the front clearance by means of the wearing parts at the knuckle. You can stop the clearance of the rear axle by means of under of schiedlicher employments at the transmission plates.
f. Examine now the toe-in of the front axle. Optimally for instance 0°Grad is toe-in.
g. Rear axle: Loosen the knurled nuts of the friction disk absorption system, around a low-friction To grant movement of the power Pods. Lift with a screwdriver, or somewhat similar those On and you these leave rear axle again careful to soil. During this entire procedure those should Front wheels still the soil affect. If the rear wheels affect now at the same time the soil, the power Pod perfectly straight is adjusted. If a rear wheel affects first the soil, this should over the adjusting screws to T-bar to be corrected, until both rear wheels affect the soil at the same time. Vehicle tuning on the distance After you adjusted the Tweak of their correctly SCALPELS, you should first roll out on the distance to dare. Guidance excursion adjust First you should limit right/left guidance excursion in such a way that the vehicle drives with full steering angle during very slow travel left and right curves with turning radius equal in size. A good value is for instance a turning radius of approx. 50cm. Initial stress in the spring at the front wishbones In principle always as much initial stress in the spring should be stopped that in the released condition always the suspension rebound movement Lie close to delimitation set-screws on the slab. Initial stress in the spring at the shock absorber Stop with the knurled nut at the shock absorber the initial stress in the spring in such a way that the chassis seen by the side does not sag, in addition, makes none „embossments “. Friction disk absorption Give something differential fat under both friction disks, in order to achieve an even friction absorption. On very handy, fast distances a higher initial stress in the spring for the friction disks is recommended. On fewer handy One can do to distances without the fat and stop a smaller initial stress in the spring. Tire tip Always use tire bonding agents, if this is permitted on your racing course. Always lubricate the entire surface the rear tire. The front tires should be lubricated depending upon mixture and pavement grip of the distance only maximally up to the half (internal half of the tire). Let the bonding agent at least 10-20 minutes influence. Wipe before the travel the tires with a clean cloth drying. If your SCALPEL should be too aggressive on the steering element, it is advisable to moisten the tire flank of the front tires with second adhesive. This reduces the front axle grasp and makes the vehicle on difficult distance conditions (Carpet condition) more easily controllably. If the front tires drive off themselves conical after a while, you should adjust somewhat more fall. The front axle is optimally adjusted, if the front tires drive off themselves perfectly cylindrically. Much fun when screwing!
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Old 12-28-2006, 07:23 PM
  #171  
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Cool, thanks. Also a fun read. Anyone know where I can get some differential fat?
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Old 12-28-2006, 07:54 PM
  #172  
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Tank you very much, also very stressful read to. Grease fat white tub with came car.






Couldn't help it, just having fun.

JOKER
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Old 12-28-2006, 08:38 PM
  #173  
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i must let the bonding agent make influence on my foams......

In my real job i work for a German co. and I correct or americanize documents all the time........
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Old 12-28-2006, 09:09 PM
  #174  
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Default Here is my complete Scalpel

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Old 12-29-2006, 05:13 PM
  #175  
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Old 12-29-2006, 10:49 PM
  #176  
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Duneland, how did you get the Sportwerks servo saver to work? Doesn't it only have one hole for mounting the tie-rod? Thanks.
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Old 12-30-2006, 01:39 AM
  #177  
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Default Servo Saver

I have looked at the XRay and the AE servo savers both have only one hole for the ball end. Could someone get the part number and make of the servo saver and pic?
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Old 12-30-2006, 01:45 AM
  #178  
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Here is a pic next to big brother 12L4
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Old 12-30-2006, 01:54 AM
  #179  
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Im still confused on the 130mm wheelbase. They could have gone 140 or even 150 and that would have allowed enough room for more electronic and mounting the servo behind the front suspension (and centered). Heck, they could even then have the angled servo mounts.

It still should be a very quick and precise lil bugger.

Hmmm.. In fact I'm sending this idea off to some chassis manufacturers..
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Old 12-30-2006, 10:37 AM
  #180  
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Originally Posted by Afro Puff
Duneland, how did you get the Sportwerks servo saver to work? Doesn't it only have one hole for mounting the tie-rod? Thanks.
I cut out a piece from a servo wheel. I attached said piece to the chaos saver. On that note, a friend used an xray saver, mounting one tie-rod to the front and the other to the rear, on the same hole. Ackerman is a bit different one side v.s. the other, but it works pretty well.
With the larger sized servos (Futaba 3101, hs81 etc.), the micro rs4 saver works well. Adding a couple of orthodonic rubber bands, makes it more positive.
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