6LikesGL Racing GLA-Guilia!
02-01-2024, 05:06 PM
#16
Tech Initiate
Does anyone have tips on getting a better turning radius while on power? I find I have to let off the throttle too much in tight corners to make it, which is severely hurting my times.
02-02-2024, 08:44 AM
#17
Thats the one thing with the Giulia that I feel I am always fighting. On power steering.
Some things that I have done, which I feel have helped:
1d rear toe bar. I feel that the car doesnt need the added stability of running high rear toe, lower toe increases rotation and efficiency.
Balancing the rollout. With any shaft AWD without a center diff, I feel that you need to balance the rollout front to rear to avoid chatter, but with Giulia and the inherent understeer on power, I put more rollout towards the front than the rear. Meaning, I use a smaller spur gear on the front diff, and cut the rear tires down a bit more. My ideal front diameter is close to 23mm with a 26t diff gear, while rear diameter I tend to like around 24.5mm with the stock 28t diff gear. Ride height I run roughly 2mm flat, or slightly raked forward .2mm.
Add mass to the front. This will tend to reduce off throttle steering into the corner, but will help on power. I changed my Giulia to the MWX chassis which shifts mass forward, closer to a 50/50 distribution with the ESC mounted on the motor, and a big battery pack in use in the standard position. By default, the Giulia is rear mass biased, which helps rotate into the corner, but as soon as you touch throttle, it feels like the fronbt wants to wash out.
softer rear tire. While it sounds counter intuitive, in general a stiffer rear tire will have more side bite than a softer tire. So, I would typically run the 10d Marka slicks, but if I want to gain some steering on power I run the 05d. Firm front tires compared to the medium also add a bit more side bite to the front, but cant run in all conditions where the medium can. If the track isnt warm enough, or have enough grip in it, its hard to get the firm working.
Front camber, around 1.5-2d Also, measure camber with a gauge and mix/match arms to get desired camber. Every AWD car that I have used in this scale does not have equal camber, so I always measure with a gauge and use different arms to correct the camber at the wheel. For me, this is what I think may make the most difference in feel of the car. At least it did for me when I was really testing it. I always tended to run about .5-1d camber on the GLA, and felt that it worked well with that setting. After switching to the MWX chassis, I still wasnt getting the rotation that I wanted, so I increased the camber arm and it livened up the car. I feel that this will sacrifice a little turn in and braking, but overall it increased the performance of the car.
You can also try backing off the rear diff setting by 1/4 turn, which may also sound counter intuitive, but that puts a bit more of the force onto the front wheel to pull through the corner. You dont want it to SLIP under heavy throttle, but just to loosen up the diff effect a bit more.
Some things that I have done, which I feel have helped:
1d rear toe bar. I feel that the car doesnt need the added stability of running high rear toe, lower toe increases rotation and efficiency.
Balancing the rollout. With any shaft AWD without a center diff, I feel that you need to balance the rollout front to rear to avoid chatter, but with Giulia and the inherent understeer on power, I put more rollout towards the front than the rear. Meaning, I use a smaller spur gear on the front diff, and cut the rear tires down a bit more. My ideal front diameter is close to 23mm with a 26t diff gear, while rear diameter I tend to like around 24.5mm with the stock 28t diff gear. Ride height I run roughly 2mm flat, or slightly raked forward .2mm.
Add mass to the front. This will tend to reduce off throttle steering into the corner, but will help on power. I changed my Giulia to the MWX chassis which shifts mass forward, closer to a 50/50 distribution with the ESC mounted on the motor, and a big battery pack in use in the standard position. By default, the Giulia is rear mass biased, which helps rotate into the corner, but as soon as you touch throttle, it feels like the fronbt wants to wash out.
softer rear tire. While it sounds counter intuitive, in general a stiffer rear tire will have more side bite than a softer tire. So, I would typically run the 10d Marka slicks, but if I want to gain some steering on power I run the 05d. Firm front tires compared to the medium also add a bit more side bite to the front, but cant run in all conditions where the medium can. If the track isnt warm enough, or have enough grip in it, its hard to get the firm working.
Front camber, around 1.5-2d Also, measure camber with a gauge and mix/match arms to get desired camber. Every AWD car that I have used in this scale does not have equal camber, so I always measure with a gauge and use different arms to correct the camber at the wheel. For me, this is what I think may make the most difference in feel of the car. At least it did for me when I was really testing it. I always tended to run about .5-1d camber on the GLA, and felt that it worked well with that setting. After switching to the MWX chassis, I still wasnt getting the rotation that I wanted, so I increased the camber arm and it livened up the car. I feel that this will sacrifice a little turn in and braking, but overall it increased the performance of the car.
You can also try backing off the rear diff setting by 1/4 turn, which may also sound counter intuitive, but that puts a bit more of the force onto the front wheel to pull through the corner. You dont want it to SLIP under heavy throttle, but just to loosen up the diff effect a bit more.
02-02-2024, 10:54 AM
#18
Tech Initiate
Thats the one thing with the Giulia that I feel I am always fighting. On power steering.
Some things that I have done, which I feel have helped:
1d rear toe bar. I feel that the car doesnt need the added stability of running high rear toe, lower toe increases rotation and efficiency.
Balancing the rollout. With any shaft AWD without a center diff, I feel that you need to balance the rollout front to rear to avoid chatter, but with Giulia and the inherent understeer on power, I put more rollout towards the front than the rear. Meaning, I use a smaller spur gear on the front diff, and cut the rear tires down a bit more. My ideal front diameter is close to 23mm with a 26t diff gear, while rear diameter I tend to like around 24.5mm with the stock 28t diff gear. Ride height I run roughly 2mm flat, or slightly raked forward .2mm.
Add mass to the front. This will tend to reduce off throttle steering into the corner, but will help on power. I changed my Giulia to the MWX chassis which shifts mass forward, closer to a 50/50 distribution with the ESC mounted on the motor, and a big battery pack in use in the standard position. By default, the Giulia is rear mass biased, which helps rotate into the corner, but as soon as you touch throttle, it feels like the fronbt wants to wash out.
softer rear tire. While it sounds counter intuitive, in general a stiffer rear tire will have more side bite than a softer tire. So, I would typically run the 10d Marka slicks, but if I want to gain some steering on power I run the 05d. Firm front tires compared to the medium also add a bit more side bite to the front, but cant run in all conditions where the medium can. If the track isnt warm enough, or have enough grip in it, its hard to get the firm working.
Front camber, around 1.5-2d Also, measure camber with a gauge and mix/match arms to get desired camber. Every AWD car that I have used in this scale does not have equal camber, so I always measure with a gauge and use different arms to correct the camber at the wheel. For me, this is what I think may make the most difference in feel of the car. At least it did for me when I was really testing it. I always tended to run about .5-1d camber on the GLA, and felt that it worked well with that setting. After switching to the MWX chassis, I still wasnt getting the rotation that I wanted, so I increased the camber arm and it livened up the car. I feel that this will sacrifice a little turn in and braking, but overall it increased the performance of the car.
You can also try backing off the rear diff setting by 1/4 turn, which may also sound counter intuitive, but that puts a bit more of the force onto the front wheel to pull through the corner. You dont want it to SLIP under heavy throttle, but just to loosen up the diff effect a bit more.
Some things that I have done, which I feel have helped:
1d rear toe bar. I feel that the car doesnt need the added stability of running high rear toe, lower toe increases rotation and efficiency.
Balancing the rollout. With any shaft AWD without a center diff, I feel that you need to balance the rollout front to rear to avoid chatter, but with Giulia and the inherent understeer on power, I put more rollout towards the front than the rear. Meaning, I use a smaller spur gear on the front diff, and cut the rear tires down a bit more. My ideal front diameter is close to 23mm with a 26t diff gear, while rear diameter I tend to like around 24.5mm with the stock 28t diff gear. Ride height I run roughly 2mm flat, or slightly raked forward .2mm.
Add mass to the front. This will tend to reduce off throttle steering into the corner, but will help on power. I changed my Giulia to the MWX chassis which shifts mass forward, closer to a 50/50 distribution with the ESC mounted on the motor, and a big battery pack in use in the standard position. By default, the Giulia is rear mass biased, which helps rotate into the corner, but as soon as you touch throttle, it feels like the fronbt wants to wash out.
softer rear tire. While it sounds counter intuitive, in general a stiffer rear tire will have more side bite than a softer tire. So, I would typically run the 10d Marka slicks, but if I want to gain some steering on power I run the 05d. Firm front tires compared to the medium also add a bit more side bite to the front, but cant run in all conditions where the medium can. If the track isnt warm enough, or have enough grip in it, its hard to get the firm working.
Front camber, around 1.5-2d Also, measure camber with a gauge and mix/match arms to get desired camber. Every AWD car that I have used in this scale does not have equal camber, so I always measure with a gauge and use different arms to correct the camber at the wheel. For me, this is what I think may make the most difference in feel of the car. At least it did for me when I was really testing it. I always tended to run about .5-1d camber on the GLA, and felt that it worked well with that setting. After switching to the MWX chassis, I still wasnt getting the rotation that I wanted, so I increased the camber arm and it livened up the car. I feel that this will sacrifice a little turn in and braking, but overall it increased the performance of the car.
You can also try backing off the rear diff setting by 1/4 turn, which may also sound counter intuitive, but that puts a bit more of the force onto the front wheel to pull through the corner. You dont want it to SLIP under heavy throttle, but just to loosen up the diff effect a bit more.
02-03-2024, 06:57 AM
#19
I wouldnt do all of the changes at once. Just a little at a time, and see what it does to the feel of the car. Use a notebook, and record the change, the difference in feel, then the difference in laptime. This way you can try to notice the trends when looking at the data log and see what changes you liked, and which ones you didnt like.
Then you can also see the difference in a part swap change, and a tuning change.
Also to note, I run pretty much unlimited rear droop, and run front droop set to the point where the front shocks wont disengage when I tumble. Adding more droop allows the car to have more chassis roll, which generates more mid corner steering/grip. For shock positions, I tend to like the outer shock positions on the shock towers. But try combinations of both and see how it feels. The outer position tends to be more responsive, where the inner position more progressive.
Then you can also see the difference in a part swap change, and a tuning change.
Also to note, I run pretty much unlimited rear droop, and run front droop set to the point where the front shocks wont disengage when I tumble. Adding more droop allows the car to have more chassis roll, which generates more mid corner steering/grip. For shock positions, I tend to like the outer shock positions on the shock towers. But try combinations of both and see how it feels. The outer position tends to be more responsive, where the inner position more progressive.
02-03-2024, 11:04 AM
#20
Tech Initiate
I wouldnt do all of the changes at once. Just a little at a time, and see what it does to the feel of the car. Use a notebook, and record the change, the difference in feel, then the difference in laptime. This way you can try to notice the trends when looking at the data log and see what changes you liked, and which ones you didnt like.
Then you can also see the difference in a part swap change, and a tuning change.
Also to note, I run pretty much unlimited rear droop, and run front droop set to the point where the front shocks wont disengage when I tumble. Adding more droop allows the car to have more chassis roll, which generates more mid corner steering/grip. For shock positions, I tend to like the outer shock positions on the shock towers. But try combinations of both and see how it feels. The outer position tends to be more responsive, where the inner position more progressive.
Then you can also see the difference in a part swap change, and a tuning change.
Also to note, I run pretty much unlimited rear droop, and run front droop set to the point where the front shocks wont disengage when I tumble. Adding more droop allows the car to have more chassis roll, which generates more mid corner steering/grip. For shock positions, I tend to like the outer shock positions on the shock towers. But try combinations of both and see how it feels. The outer position tends to be more responsive, where the inner position more progressive.
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