E-Flite EFLH1132 heat sink fits Reflex 14b/t stock motor
 

Wow! Plenty of airflow at 109mph! Lol

Curious to see it I can post pics now... here are the E-flite heat sink pics:


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...37ad17b3a.jpeg
E-flite heat sink reflex 14b 14t. Red arrow/line indicates fin removed for clearance of the central driveshaft enclosure.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...88135ec2b.jpeg
Eflite heat sink for Reflex 14B 14T. The bit I cut off to clear central driveshaft enclosure.

Eflite heat sink EFLH1132
 

Hey, I can post pics now! :)

So, here are some pics of the heat sink on the car. Since taking these photos, early summer 2021, I have added a second heat sink as I wanted it to run a little cooler. Still it wasn't bad considering I'm running the slightly smaller OD street tires when temps are higher in summer. Sure you can bash her but I think the Relfex is ideally suited to driveway and sidewalk running w the low clearance and low center of gravity (CG).

There was a very small gap (~ 0.5-1mm) between the heatsink and motor case so I applied some thermal conductive paste to ensure heat transfer. Also, the heat sink is made from fairly flexible aluminum, so it bends easily if you attempt to snap it on from the top. I found it best to slide the heat sink on to the motor from the end to avoid any deformation. You can bend the heatsink a little for a good fit but it still holds its shape well enough.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...9ddb0a190.jpeg
If you look closely, you can see the thermal paste between heat sink and motor.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...f4a312b84.jpeg
My lower CG electronics arrangement. I have since added a second heat sink to the motor. The yellow arrow is where I clearanced a fin to fit next to central driveshaft enclosure.

So go buy a heatsink or two if you want some extra cooling. I think the motor is quite punchy when NOT running hot! Maybe they'll put them back in production!

Hope it helps!
Kirk

Thanks SOOO much for the heat sink info and pics!!
The fan I added is working great, but I have yet to test it at Central Texas 105* summer days! So far it's keeping the motor 10* above the air temp, but that's only been tested to 85* air temps.
I found out that Robinson Racing .5 Mod pinions WILL NOT fit the factory reedy motor! The reedy motor shaft is 2.15mm (aprox.)where the RR pinion is 2mm!:flaming: I was wanting to gear my Reflex down since my driveway track only gives me room for 3/4 throttle at most and with all the tight corners I need less top end speed and a wider throttle curve. So untill I can get the pinions opened to the right diameter I will play with ESC and radio settings.:(
NOw that winter is officially here I am going to focus on a Axial SCX24 I am soon to get at the local Hobbytown!!!:sneaky:
Anyway Take Care Everyone and have a Great New Year!
Drew
p.s. I have A Phat Bodys Kaboom truggy body on it's way!!!:D

The issue with the centre diff bearing is that the centre shaft cover smashes into the bearing race if the Reflex chassis flexes too much such as when it runs into something or endos on landing a jump. I bought the truggy for my daughter and buggy for myself in late 2021. The truggy centre bearing and diff out drive with the spur attached were destroyed with her first drive on Christmas Day when she ran into a wall, not even close to full speed. The centre diff front bearing race got smashed out of alignment, the bearing seized and the diff out drive melted (the bearing runs on a plastic shaft) and the spur went out of alignment. I just finished replacing the chassis (bearing retainer had melted here too), centre diff and diff bearing tonight. Ran it into a wall lightly to test my theory. Same exact bearing damage when I pulled it apart. I pulled apart my Reflex buggy to check that and also found the centre diff front bearing race destroyed. The spur hadn't gone out of alignment yet as my centre diff was oil filled which leaked on the out drive acting as lube on the shaft for the seized bearing so the out drive had only slightly melted.

This is a problem that's only going to continue happening. It's pretty disappointing that the platform has been out so many years and the issue not fixed by Associated.

The options to prevent it that I see are stiffening the chassis to the point that it can't flex and have the shaft cover smash into the bearing which isn't really practical or desirable as it will reduce traction.

The other option which I'm going to try is removing some material from the shaft cover by the centre diff bearing to give it a bit more room to move when the chassis flexes. Unfortunately the spur/pinion cover doesn't overlap this shaft cover much so removing too much material will let debris in to the gears. I'm not sure if the shaft cover is being used to locate the bearing either.

​​​​​A better option from AE would be a redesigned spur/pinion cover that locates the centre diff front bearing in the cover and overlaps the shaft cover more as well as a shorter shaft cover to allow more gap between the bearing and cover for when the chassis flexes.

BoxxerBoyDrew Bummer on the gear ID. I too was looking for a lower gear option. Having said that I found the street wheels setup lowers the gearing a bit giving better acceleration, lower top end and cooler running temps. Perfect for the driveway. Let us know what you figure out for the gearing. Lowers the center of gravity too!

spongerX Yeah I hear about some having bad luck w the forward center diff bearing. My car had some loose and even stripped screw seats (the plastic that accepts the screw was stripped). I bet some cars were assembled w that bearing a little out of wack or the housing not fully seated or correctly installed leading to friction, heat melting and a long term misalignment issue. Sorry to hear of your trouble. Pretty annoying. I'd rather buy a kit to ensure quality control myself. I have had no trouble w my bearing but I keep an eye on it. I have already tore down and reassembled the whole car adding silicone oil to shocks and all three diffys. What an improvement! I even bought a fast eddys bearing kit but the stock ones were fine so I used them again. I did make sure they were well lubricated as a dry bearing could quickly get hot and destroy the plastic housing. Frankly I wouldn't remove any material as that seems to me it would make it more flexy. If anything adding material where it flexes on the pan or belly to stiffen it up. Maybe even a diagonal brace somehow. Having said that you are prob better off just replacing the whole chassis pan and ensuring a good assembly w quality bearings and don't strip any screws! Good luck!
PS: I bet Associated would spring for a pan if you emailed them and sent some pics. I had good response from them when i contacted them about my stripped screws. A couple stripped screws on the front diffy housing meant it wouldn't stay closed. I ended up NOT following through w them just because I added some epoxy to my screws and so far are holding fine.

Kirk

Well I haven't changed back to the 70 tooth spur, but I did adjust the throttle expo., and it is working for now. When I get the pipe for the track I will swap out to a new chassis and the 70t spur.
I did get a Phat Bodies Kaboom truggy body for the reflex, along with a "Gurt" wing. Well the body fits the reflex ok. The rear body mount is good, but the front body mounts are too low. The shock tower will hit before the mounts would stick through the body. I am using Dual Lock to hold the body on, so i didn't drill the front mount holes. The body rests perfectly on the front mount using the Dual Lock along the sides of the chassis.
As for the body itself has a cool look, but the thickness and the mold quality are sub-par! There are some very thin areas around the front wheel wells. And the side windows look like the outlines were done with a soldering iron, and are not the same shape or size either. There is also a embossed Phat logo in the left side in front of the rear wheel, that while not noticalbe when painted it does mess up trying to put stickers on the body( Air Bubbles). With no window masks, light or grill stickers, poor quality molding, makes me not like this body, BUT being the only option, I guess I'll live with it! Don't get me wrong it's ok for the $ for a basher body, but I wouldnt want to spend the money on a multi-colored paint job on it. So Solid white, with candy blacked windows, lights, and grill it was on this one!
The Gurt wing seems to be very nice and is made of HEAVY Lexan, so I HOPE it will hold up to concrete roof slides! LOL Anyway here's some pics.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...8d47239ad.jpeg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...d9ac83487.jpeg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...5fdf52e86.jpeg
I also had to rearrange my electronics again, because of the angels of the body's sides was hitting on the esc and fan. Forgot to take pics! DUH me.

Anyway Hope all are doing well in this COLD!!! We had close to an inch of sleet today and 19*, and it was in the upper 70's 2 days ago! LOL Everyone Take Care!!! Drew

This fan location works fine as well. 20+ minutes at speed and the motor is cool to the touch.


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...96027c4a9.jpeg

EveryRearView, What brand receiver is that? The fan looks good too! I put my fan back in that location after moving the electronics and putting the 70t spur back in. I also adjusted the punch and drag break settings on the ESC, and with that and the 70t spur, the Reflex is much better on the driveway track!!! Slowing everything down and with the Kaboom Body and Gurt wing I am able to turn less than 6 second laps on the regular!
Hope one is well and warm! Drew

The receiver is a Corona, I needed a module that would work with the Futaba 3PKS since it was impossible to buy Spektrum receivers for it any more. TBH, the Corona stuff has been great, responsive, no range issues, and I do like the footprint of the receiver. I gave the 3PKS to my daughter, so she's actually the one running the Corona stuff across multiple cars. They do make them for FASST and T-FHSS as well. 2.4G DSSS set_Receiver_CORONA Electronics & Technology Co.,LTD

A few years ago, a friend of mine used Corona metal gear servos on his Blade 300X rc helicopter. He flew it every day and kept a log of all flights. The same servos were still working fine after more than 500 flights. They were only $8 each. The guy is a genius electrical engineer and did the most insane difficult stunts with his 300X.

Thanks Rearview!!! Sorry for the delayed response but I have been reading about and running my new Mini-Z and it has my focus at the moment!
So many projects and never enough $!
Take Care,
Drew

I was going to order two of the T versions for my son and I to mess around with. They are down to $199 each on the web. Good order or no? Looks like they are brushless. Would be fun to have a tiny course at our house with. How do they compare to a 2wd buggy? I was something that's as good as it can be off road, without being too high that it will roll over on turns. Thanks in advance!

Associated Folks... listen to this please. This is an awesome 1/14 designed platform but it needs a slipper.on the main spur/diff.

We enjoyed the first car so much we bought a second one. Had a little romp in the street the other day with a jump and racing around some cones. Really the perfect vehicle for messing around at home. Small enough to have a little course in driveway or in the street, and they have enough clearance to get back off the grass (barely!) if they go off course. Cheap too since they are on sale for $199. I got a dual pack of batteries and they last about 20 minutes of running around at good speed. Super happy. I need to redo the shocks though, there is a lot of space in the top of them from the factory and they don't seem to be working the greatest. What's the best weight for messing around? 25/30? I'd rather them be stiff so they don't bottom out as easily.

The Reflex is a great driveway ripper! That's why I got mine, loads of fun!

I used 20wt oil in the front of mine with the stock shocks. A little bit heavier in the rear. If the shocks are set up carefully so they have some rebound it handles great w the factory springs. I think it was too stiff before and handles the bumps without bouncing around now. The Reflex is pretty light. I'm not hucking it though more of a long travel roadie set up.

I highly recommend adding diff fluid to all three Front, center and rear. I used 5k/5k/3k respectively. While in there be sure all is assembled properly and lube/replace every bearing to prevent any future meltouts.

I put these wheels and tires on it. They are touch smaller outside dia. so they reduce the gearing a little also reducing motor temps. Get the Eflite cooling fins mentioned above. I recently cut some coling slots to get a little more airflow over the motor. Im still running the 1300mAh 2s Lipo.

She handles awesome now! She handled good before but tuning can make a big difference.


Read through this thread as there is a lot if good info that is still relevant.

Kirk