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Old 04-03-2007, 07:06 PM
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Before you buy a new pull start, ease off the bolts at the rear, this may free up any spring tension that may be present. Do the same thing if it doesnt retract. Have you tried moving the fly wheel by hand, you might be in top dead center, therefore at the peak of compresion. When you finish for the day ensure the piston is at bottom dead center, this will allow the sleeve to cool without stretching and will give you longer engine life.
You can check where the piston is by feel, if the fly wheel is easy to move then you are either at mid or bottom dead center, remove the exhust maninfold and take a look. When you see the piston at the bottom get a perminant marker and mark the fly wheel, this way you will be ablle to tell nice and easy. Also you should always use an after run oil, especially if it is a while between use.

Last edited by dirtdustingdavo; 04-07-2007 at 05:48 PM.
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Old 04-04-2007, 08:07 AM
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Thank you gentlemen for your replies!

Today I did some "experience" by taking out the engine & unplugged the glow plug & used a hair dryer at full (hot) blast! & what guess what happened?

Well, first the good news....the pull start mechanism is working perfectly!! Which means there's no damage, right?

& now the bad news....the pull start mechanism gets stuck again (can't move at all) when I screw in the glow plug all the way (until tighten)! Why is this so? Is this an early sign for me to kiss bye-bye to my engine? Hopefully not!!

So guys (& all the good people out there!), please help me out....I'm getting a heartburn!

Thanks again!
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Old 04-05-2007, 05:29 PM
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No its not time to say goodbye lol, you just have a little compression (which is good, it means your engine is nice a strong) loosen the glow plug and try and start it again, you should feel it has loosened up, you can start the engine with plug loose, just remeber to re-tighten it prior to running or it will fall out.

The pull start needs lube to work properly, try dropping some fuel down the string or some CRC, this will help as they do get a bit of crap down there. Also only use short sharp jabs when pulling the starter, othere wise you can damage the spring quite easily
Best bet however is to get rid of it and get a bump starter.
Darrin
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Old 04-06-2007, 06:06 AM
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Yo Darrin (hope u don't mind)!

Thanx a zillion for your 'medicine'!! What a relief! I'll let 'cha know the outcome!!

Yo seelianglim!

Remember d diagram you posted earlier? Thanks again! You gave me an idea on the fuel tubes.....since they don't fit my car's screws, I fitted the tube on my throttle linkage (is that right?). It seems to work & hope it does!

Well, thanks yo all!

Happy Racin' & make it a great one!
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Old 04-07-2007, 05:50 PM
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[QUOTE=steponit!]Yo Darrin (hope u don't mind)!

Thanx a zillion for your 'medicine'!! What a relief! I'll let 'cha know the outcome!!

No prob m8, glad I could help.
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Old 04-07-2007, 08:05 PM
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i have a question with my ride too ...

if i realized my brake tak makan... (what else i can do instead of just tweek at tx n change disk?)

my ride x4
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Old 04-07-2007, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by tancp81
i have a question with my ride too ...

if i realized my brake tak makan... (what else i can do instead of just tweek at tx n change disk?)

my ride x4
yo bros, if brake tak makan after adjust on Tx then do mechanical adjust in the servo side. Mean near the servo for your brake linkage got one plastic type screw for you to adjust the brake...normally ppl will do mechanical adjust 1st then when play/ race the brake will adjust at Tx..........Pro pls corrent me if I am wrong.
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Old 04-08-2007, 04:22 AM
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Originally Posted by tkhoo
yo bros, if brake tak makan after adjust on Tx then do mechanical adjust in the servo side. Mean near the servo for your brake linkage got one plastic type screw for you to adjust the brake...normally ppl will do mechanical adjust 1st then when play/ race the brake will adjust at Tx..........Pro pls corrent me if I am wrong.
is that what u meant ?

other than this , any other parts i could try out too?

Last edited by tancp81; 11-08-2007 at 02:06 AM.
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Old 04-08-2007, 06:36 PM
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Old 04-08-2007, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by tkhoo
here

so in my case , do i need to cut out fuel tube ?or just turn the things ?

n yeah that can be turn ...
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Old 04-08-2007, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by tancp81
so in my case , do i need to cut out fuel tube ?or just turn the things ?

n yeah that can be turn ...
hello fren..why la ur brake linkage got that too busybody fueline tube or what ever you call it la?u got reason to use it or jusr make it look nicer?
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Old 04-08-2007, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by MAVICXXX
hello fren..why la ur brake linkage got that too busybody fueline tube or what ever you call it la?u got reason to use it or jusr make it look nicer?

takda guna punya?

it come with the kit...
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Old 04-08-2007, 10:08 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by tancp81
takda guna punya?

it come with the kit...
ohya?maybe they missed out during my kit..
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Old 04-09-2007, 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by MAVICXXX
ohya?maybe they missed out during my kit..
ala, bang, memang ada guna ke takda guna ni?
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Old 04-09-2007, 05:58 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by tancp81
ala, bang, memang ada guna ke takda guna ni?
mesti ada guna wor.. last time my x3 also got those rubber tubes fixed to the linkage..
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