Problems with my 1/10 "ride"
 

Yo all!

I got some problems with my Tamiya 1/10 TG10-MK.1 nitro car & I really hope you good people can shed me some light....

(a) everytime when the engine's runs the car will move on it's own....like it has its own brain! Why is this so? I've checked the servo and throttle shaft & it seems to be o.k.

(b) everytime when I apply the brakes, my car stops (that's good) but when I release it it gets stuck (that's bad)! How come?

So, good people, please help me out.

Thank you.....& Happy Racin' !!

i'm buying it...if it steers on it own too :lol:

starts...and it runs ehhh....might be your clutch spring is weak.

ya sure the brake servo is woookey? and your servo saver is not sloppy if there's one?

beyond all those..i'm game :sweat:

You must remember to dis-engage AutoPilot before driving your car!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

I think your car has some freeplay in the linkages...

Steponit

I shall attempt to answer ur questions.

1) The car running on its own can be due to :
a) You had changed the idle setting to be more lean. This will cause the engine to run faster n therefore engaging the clutch. Try to make the engine rich again, by turning the idle screw anti-clockwise.
b) You could have changed the throttle setting on ur radio. What sort of radio are u using? Does it have digital trims? The older radio have the rotary dials that can be changed even when the radio is turned off. The newer radios allow changes to the trims only when turned on.

2) Your brakes are sticking. I assume that the brakes work by a lever (actuated by the servo) pressing on a caliper that squeezes the brake disk between it. Try this :
Remove the brake assembly and cut out 2 fuel tubing ,say 5 mm long. Install these 2 fuel tubings onto the rods that hold the calipers together. ( i am assuming that the gap is 5 mm, it could be more or less than 5 mm). Now by having these fuel tubing between the calipers, it will act as springs after you release the brakes.

hope this helps. I can try to draw out the diagram if u want.

slliim

1. idle speed too high - tweek idle needle on engine, clutch spring weak but unlikely - change spring

2. brakes binding - check for bind on brake cam, faulty servo.

Could it be something as simle as the throttle/brakes TRIM on the radio? Maybe he is using an analog radio and has trim... When the trim of T/B is moved to the T zone instead of Neutral then the car moves lor.....
Then when the brakes are applied. there must be some over braking going on and making the brakes sieze!

WHatca think?

So sorry 4d late reply dudes....I was a bit busy.

Gentelmen, here's some more info on my car:-

I'm using the 'Acoms Techniplus AP-202 Digital Radio Control System' which means its 'digital' right? Is it any good? My other car is using the 'Futaba 2PHK Digital RC System' & so far no problems!

Is the 'idle screw' the screw with the fuel tube? What do you call the other one on the engine? (Yes! I'm a rc nitro newbie & a oldie in ep...ever heard of 'Rough Rider' b4?.... :D )

Yo seelianglim!
I would be delighted if you could please, please draw me the diagram!

Thanks yo all again & all your help is highly appreciated!

Steponit

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...glim/brake.jpg

I hope the pic makes sense. :blush:

The radio is a stick type ? Wah, if i use it, use kelam kabut ,but no worries, there is a world champion chap who uses a stick radio. Cant remember his name though.
Anyways, from the diagram, you can see the addition of the thin fuel tubing between the calipers(rotors). It acts as springs .

You may wanna check your throttle trim as well. You may have bumped it causing the throttle to be more 'open'.

I had made a mistake in my last post/reply to you when i mentioned about the idle screw. I had wanted to say 'main screw' . Usually nobody messes with the idle screw. So the correction should read as :
....
"Try to make the engine rich again, by turning the main screw anti-clockwise.
"....

Rough Rider ar....Sure i remember it !. Should be slightly older than my Falcon.




Hope this helps.

sllim

[QUOTE=seelianglim]Steponit

The radio is a stick type ? Wah, if i use it, use kelam kabut ,but no worries, there is a world champion chap who uses a stick radio. Cant remember his name though.


uncle that world champ that is using stick type is Yokomo's Factory driver Mr Masami :nod: :nod: ...not Masami Tan from Perak :flaming: :flaming: :flaming: ..that masami tan is a scumbag that bring down the good name of the RC traders here..

bro maybe your engine is idling too high laa.or something wrong wit your clutch. :nod: :nod:

the screw with the fuel tube is the high speed needle's screw (or main needle) while the other called idle screw.. u might wanna richen the mixture using the main screw (anti clockwise) a lil bit until it disengage ur clutch when idle.. otherwise if ur top speed oredi ok (when u full throttle) then u might wanna richen ur idle (anti clockwise).. remember always do a short 'blip' to ur throttle before altering the screws (to clear excess fuel from engine)..

[QUOTE=Mr LowDown]andy moore also uses stick controller. No???

[QUOTE=hypm]That is the guy.

Yo good people!

Thanks a dynomite for all your 'remedies'...I really, really appreciate that!! I'll try to attempt all of it & let you guys know about the outcome.

seelianglim
Awesome drawing & I can "see" it clearly now! Thanks 4 ur time!!

Happy racin' , yo all!!

Yo ho ho good people!!

Another problem just popped up!! The 'pullstart' mechanism on my o.s. 12cv-x engine seems to be jammed!! I can't pull it to start the engine at all! The last time I ran it was about a month ago....is that the cause of it? I always put some 'after-run-oil' in the engine after running everytime.

Your help, good people, is highly appreciated!

Thank you!

Hi,

Did u overfill the engine? When the engine is flooded, it is very difficult to turn the engine.


Or, the pullstart mechanism is broken n need to be replaced.

sllim