262LikesXray T4 18
07-17-2018, 03:49 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the XRAY T4'18 Thread & Wikipost! Here you will find some useful info, tips and tricks as well as setups that are used by several team drivers. This wikipost is a work in progress and should continue to develop over time. Feel free to add anything you feel is useful to the community!
New for 2018: Similar to 2017, the T4'18 kit comes available in the U.S. with either a Graphite chassis (Part no. XRA300024), or Aluminum Flex chassis (Part no. XRA300024A) along with all of the great features introduced last year. We recommend the Graphite chassis for starting on asphalt, and the Aluminum Flex for starting on carpet. The big changes for 2018 are much lower center of gravity, courtesy of the Ultra Low Profile (ULP) shocks/towers and narrower weight distribution by shifting the motor in towards the center-line of the car. In moving the motor closer to the center, the topdeck and layshaft bulkheads have been re-designed. Also new this year, the motor mount includes more holes which extend further toward the rear of the car to improve traction. With the new shorter shocks, the 2018 will use the same springs as previous T4 models. What's NEW at T4 2018? Convert your '17 to '18 specs with these parts: - NEW chassis plate (3 options to chose from, Graphite, Aluminum, Alum. Flex) - NEW topdeck - NEW ULP shocks (4mm shorter than 2017) - NEW ULP shock towers (4mm shorter than 2017) - NEW Motor mount (1mm narrower than 2017) - NEW Motor mount plate - NEW layshaft bulkheads - NEW 51mm ECS ES driveshafts 301145 T4'18 CHASSIS 2.2MM GRAPHITE 301199 T4'18 UPPER DECK 2.0MM GRAPHITE 302084 ULP SHOCK TOWER FRONT 3.0MM GRAPHITE 303001-O T4'18 ALU LAYSHAFT BULKHEAD RIGHT - ORANGE 303002-O T4'18 ALU MOTOR MOUNT - ORANGE 303003-O T4'18 ALU MOTOR MOUNT PLATE - ORANGE 303085 ULP SHOCK TOWER REAR 3.0MM GRAPHITE 305221 ECS (ES) DRIVE SHAFT 51MM FOR 2MM PIN - HUDY SPRING STEEL(tm) (1) 305334 ECS ES (EXTRA STRONG) DRIVE SHAFT 51MM - HUDY SPRING STEEL(tm) - SET 308043-O ULP ALU SHOCK ADJUSTABLE NUT - ORANGE (2) 308308-O ULP ALU SHOCK ABSORBER-SET - ORANGE (2) 308324 ULP ALU SHOCK BODY (2) 308334 ULP COMPOSITE SHOCK PARTS 308354-O ULP ALU SHOCK CAP-NUT WITH VENT HOLE - ORANGE (2) Tips & Tricks: Alex Hagberg's Tech Tip Tuesday articles How to mount your Protoform LTC-R Body Setting static camber How to mount weight on your chassis Part1 How to mount the rear wing on Protoform bodies Simple troubleshooting guide How to mount the battery on your chassis How to glue your front tires for CRC Black carpet with Eric Anderson Mastering the Sanwa M12S: Utilizing Exponential and RMode How to mount weight on your chassis Part2 Mastering the Sanwa M12S: Utilizing TH-Hold ULP Shock: Building the new ULP Shock w/ Zero Rebound by Dominic Quek Team driver Tim Wahl posted some very useful build tips for the T4'16 on Facebook as he worked through building a new kit. These tips will still apply on the current model. 1- Carbon Parts 2-Suspension 3-Solid Axle and Differential 4-Bulkheads & Drivetrain 5-Driveshaft (ECS & CVD) 6-Front & Rear Suspension 7-Tweak 8-Anti-Roll Bar 9-Battery Fix (OPTIONAL) 10-Bumper & Body 11-Shocks 12-Steering Center Brace: The manual indicates using a 2mm shim under the center brace when attaching to the chassis plate. The gap is actually 3mm, so a 3mm shim should be used here. Tuning Note: On Carpet we have found that adding screws or doubling up the graphite brace will make the car react quicker to steering input, & change direction faster. Raising the graphite brace off of the aluminum bulkheads by placing a shim under it on the front and rear holes will reduce response. Using the tie-rod will reduce initial response to input, but will generate more in-corner traction or 'side-bite'. Using no brace will generate even more of this 'side-bite' but all of this is at the expense of corner speed. Best to use the tie-rod or no brace only in low-traction conditions. Additionally, the center brace increases forward traction, so removing it will potentially increase wheel-spin out of low speed corners. New Graphite Hubs: Xray have recently released some additional Graphite hubs for the T4 lineup. The 4° Graphite C-Hub has been out for some time and is known to improve steering on entry, and in general makes the car turn better. This has been the go-to c-hub on asphalt for many on the Xray team, though it is not needed on high bite carpet. The Graphite rear hub tends to make the car more stable, especially on corner entry. We are still working on gathering input on the new Graphite steering block, but for the moment feel that it should improve steering response. All Graphite parts are approximately 1g lighter than the Hard or Medium options. ARS Tuning courtesy of Ed (TryHard): If you set the ARS up with no shims under either inside or outside ball positions, it actually adds toe-in under compression, at around 1° at 5.2mm ride height (how much it adds depends how much the car compresses, obviously  )Adding shims reduces the amount added (1mm under one of the links gives about 0.5°), until the link has 2mm worth of shims (1mm either side, or 2mm on one side) makes the ARS neutral. Adding more shims then turns it into reducing toe in under compression. Whilst that might sound a bit backwards, it's actually not quite as simple as it sounds. By having the links to add toe, you gain forward traction. Also consider as the car rolls, the inside wheel is in negative compression, and the outside in compression. So the inside is toe-ing out, and the outside toe-ing in, so the whole rear is then 'steering' in the direction of the turn. Obviously the inside wheel has a lot less influence than the outside as it's far less loaded, but the effect is still there. Optional & Tuning Parts to consider: XRA301146 T4'18 ALU CHASSIS 2.0MM - SWISS 7075 T6 **For very high traction** (Approx. 108g) XRA301147 T4'18 ALU FLEX CHASSIS 2.0MM - SWISS 7075 T6 **For high traction** (Approx. 93g) XRA301169 T4'18 UPPER DECK 1.6MM GRAPHITE XRA302254 Composite Steering Block - Graphite XRA302334 Aluminum C-Hub Block - Caster 0° - Orange **Only for ARS** XRA302383 Composite C-Hub Right – 4° - Graphite (ECS) **Not recommended for high traction** XRA302384 Composite C-Hub Left – 4° - Graphite (ECS) **Not recommended for high traction** XRA302711 Brass Front Lower 1-Piece Suspension Holder - Front - FF XRA302803 1.3mm Front Anti-Roll Bar XRA303360 Composite Upright 0° Outboard Toe-In - Graphite XRA303802 1.2mm Rear Anti-Roll Bar XRA305137 Steel Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters - HUDY Spring Steel **Highly recommend** XRA305242 Composite Drive Shaft Replacement Cap 3.5mm – Orange – Strong (QTY 4) XRA305351 Aluminum Wheel Hub – Offset “-0.75mm” – Black (QTY 2) XRA305352 Aluminum Wheel Hub - Offset “+0.75mm” - Black (QTY 2) XRA306191 T4 Graphite + Aluminum Fully Adjustable Battery Holder XRA308029 ULP ALU PROGRESSIVE SHOCK SYSTEM - SET (2) **Only for asphalt** XRA308264 4S Spring-Set Progressive C=2.5-2.8 (QTY 2) XRA308276 4S Spring-Set C=2.7 (QTY 2) XRA308286 4S Spring-Set C=2.6 (QTY 2) Recent Setups: 7-Oct - Alexander Hagberg - IIC - High Traction Carpet - Mod Q2, P2 7-Oct - Craig Xavier - IIC - High Traction Carpet - SuperStock Q5, P5 
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10-07-2017, 09:50 AM
#196
Tech Initiate
Aluminum adjustable body post stop
Anyone know what is the advantage of
having aluminum body post stops?
having aluminum body post stops?
10-07-2017, 12:21 PM
#198
Whilst the new shocks on my car definitely have slightly stiffer adjusters than previous cars, I'm not having the issues you've mentioned.
Not trying to be patronising, but have you tightened up the shock cap fully? The last few generations of shock have a lip to take the guess work out of how much you're compressing the bladder. When bleeding/building them it needs to be tight.
I also don't put any oil on the big o-ring itself, but I do lightly smear some over the threaded part of the shock body.
Not trying to be patronising, but have you tightened up the shock cap fully? The last few generations of shock have a lip to take the guess work out of how much you're compressing the bladder. When bleeding/building them it needs to be tight.
I also don't put any oil on the big o-ring itself, but I do lightly smear some over the threaded part of the shock body.
put the older collars on the new shock bodies and there is no problem at all.
So I am using the older collars at the moment as I can get to 5mm ride height with no problem
10-07-2017, 03:29 PM
#199
Hi Damian, yep always fully tighten the cap fully, never had the problem before, also strange the problem occurs on both new and old shock bodies,
put the older collars on the new shock bodies and there is no problem at all.
So I am using the older collars at the moment as I can get to 5mm ride height with no problem
put the older collars on the new shock bodies and there is no problem at all.
So I am using the older collars at the moment as I can get to 5mm ride height with no problem
Old collars on new ULP shocks, simply ok.
New collars on new ULP shocks,simply not ok.
10-08-2017, 03:36 PM
#200
Because they clearenced the new collars to sit higher for the longer springs so you would still have adjustments with the short shocks. Maybe I’m wrong but from reading that would be a logical reason
10-08-2017, 04:26 PM
#202
Collars
If the collars were clearanced to overlap the top cap and that is allowing the o ring to slide up and out of the machined groove causing a bind it does make it a factor . I’m sure Drew or Ea could clear it up easy
10-09-2017, 01:42 AM
#203
The new shock collars probably have a correctly machined thread, otherwise they would be stiff being wound in both directions.
If you want to test, try removing the o-ring from the adjuster and then try the collar, if it moves up and down fine then that isn't the issue.
Perhaps the new collars allow too much movement in the o-ring which can allow it to become partly trapped.
I ran my car yesterday, and while I do have the issue where the adjuster is tighter when being wound down, it all still works fine and I haven't managed to accidentally un-thread the shock body whilst adjusting it.
If you want to test, try removing the o-ring from the adjuster and then try the collar, if it moves up and down fine then that isn't the issue.
Perhaps the new collars allow too much movement in the o-ring which can allow it to become partly trapped.
I ran my car yesterday, and while I do have the issue where the adjuster is tighter when being wound down, it all still works fine and I haven't managed to accidentally un-thread the shock body whilst adjusting it.
10-09-2017, 09:50 AM
#204
The new shock collars probably have a correctly machined thread, otherwise they would be stiff being wound in both directions.
If you want to test, try removing the o-ring from the adjuster and then try the collar, if it moves up and down fine then that isn't the issue.
Perhaps the new collars allow too much movement in the o-ring which can allow it to become partly trapped.
I ran my car yesterday, and while I do have the issue where the adjuster is tighter when being wound down, it all still works fine and I haven't managed to accidentally un-thread the shock body whilst adjusting it.
If you want to test, try removing the o-ring from the adjuster and then try the collar, if it moves up and down fine then that isn't the issue.
Perhaps the new collars allow too much movement in the o-ring which can allow it to become partly trapped.
I ran my car yesterday, and while I do have the issue where the adjuster is tighter when being wound down, it all still works fine and I haven't managed to accidentally un-thread the shock body whilst adjusting it.
For now, i use my T4 17 collars.
10-09-2017, 03:57 PM
#206
Having taken some old and new adjusters apart, the O-ring (despite having the same part number) is 1mm on the '18, they are 1.5mm on the previous cars.
The metal on the adjusters themselves has exactly the same dimensions, except for it's depth, 4mm on the '18, 4.75mm on previous cars.
The slot for the O-ring has also been reduced for the '18, but I think this is the important part, the diameter of the hole at the top of the adjuster is still the same, 13.95mm
I think the new slimmer O-ring is more easily able to get caught in the gap that exists between the main upper hole and the shock body, with the 1.5mm rings this is far more difficult.
It has to be said that although the first shock I tried to take apart tonight got very stiff, I still managed to remove the adjuster, the other three came apart easily.
Once I put all the adjusters back on they seem to have eased slightly, they are barely stiffer being wound downwards than they are being wound upwards.
If a running change needs to be made, I think it's the diameter of that top hole needs to be reduced to 13.5mm, should solve the trapped O-ring issue
The metal on the adjusters themselves has exactly the same dimensions, except for it's depth, 4mm on the '18, 4.75mm on previous cars.
The slot for the O-ring has also been reduced for the '18, but I think this is the important part, the diameter of the hole at the top of the adjuster is still the same, 13.95mm
I think the new slimmer O-ring is more easily able to get caught in the gap that exists between the main upper hole and the shock body, with the 1.5mm rings this is far more difficult.
It has to be said that although the first shock I tried to take apart tonight got very stiff, I still managed to remove the adjuster, the other three came apart easily.
Once I put all the adjusters back on they seem to have eased slightly, they are barely stiffer being wound downwards than they are being wound upwards.
If a running change needs to be made, I think it's the diameter of that top hole needs to be reduced to 13.5mm, should solve the trapped O-ring issue
10-09-2017, 05:10 PM
#207
Tech Adept
T4 18 Diff leak
Hello everyone,
I am having issues with the diff leaking through the casing using 8000k oil.
I secure the screws bit by bit and go across from one to another. I also don't over tighten. I changed the green gasket and still leaks through the casing. The O ring is not in the best shape since I opened it but I'm told it has no use anyway.
Any other ideas?
I am having issues with the diff leaking through the casing using 8000k oil.
I secure the screws bit by bit and go across from one to another. I also don't over tighten. I changed the green gasket and still leaks through the casing. The O ring is not in the best shape since I opened it but I'm told it has no use anyway.
Any other ideas?
10-09-2017, 05:18 PM
#208
Hello everyone,
I am having issues with the diff leaking through the casing using 8000k oil.
I secure the screws bit by bit and go across from one to another. I also don't over tighten. I changed the green gasket and still leaks through the casing. The O ring is not in the best shape since I opened it but I'm told it has no use anyway.
Any other ideas?
I am having issues with the diff leaking through the casing using 8000k oil.
I secure the screws bit by bit and go across from one to another. I also don't over tighten. I changed the green gasket and still leaks through the casing. The O ring is not in the best shape since I opened it but I'm told it has no use anyway.
Any other ideas?
Just make sure the gasket is wetted with oil, and that the case is locking together correctly (check the knob in the locator)
10-09-2017, 05:32 PM
#210
Tech Adept
Great thank you
Last edited by Rcracing01; 10-09-2017 at 06:13 PM.