Because it's not actually affecting the car in torsion I would think that shimming the turnbuckle up would not yield any changes in how the car reacts to inputs. That being said, I've never tried shimming it up so I'm not 100% positive.

I dont think it will change much. I did notice the same thing you did with the doubling up of the graphite brace. Made the flex chassis work better in high grip.

Any idea when this kit is going to be back in stock in the US? Been out of stock everywhere for quite some time now.

better put a ring on it before you get more toys. :)

guys what aluminium chassis is best for ETS carpet?

I run on Carpet, it makes sense if the chassis is stiffer flex wise that it would be more reactive.

Only one way to find out though.

Alex told me recently that he has been opting for the solid alum chassis for all carpet racing. This year's solid chassis has more flex than last year because of the cutout under the back of the battery, and the fact the swing rack is moved back. So more flex in the chassis overall.

I assume you are talking about the aluminum flex chassis?

Many thanks for all the responses, much appreciated.

will be participating in the 17.t blinky class of TITC (Bangkok) next month at the newly renovated outdoor asphalt Infinity track where people have been saying that the grip is really high, thus the question on the turnbuckle brace.

Was thinking of raising the turnbuckle just for the sake of it not touching the belts, but if it would have a major difference in performance, then there's no other option left than to sanding the plastic parts :cry:

pretty sure R Dodge is referring to the Xray SOLID aluminum chassis. As far as flex goes, the chassis are as follows:

Softest: Carbon
Medium: Flex Aluminum
Hard: Solid Aluminum


I think the point he was making is that the 17 solid chassis has more flex than previous years, while still being the stiffest offering for the car.

And from what he said, Alex has opted to run the solid chassis for most carpet events, as the little flex that the solid chassis does have seems to be enough for him to be competitive.

Yup, derf nailed it. :)

I have been running solid chassis with 1.6mm top deck. JJ has been running flex chassis with 1.6mm top deck.

For what it's worth, I had a fantastic raceday Saturday with the box setup (or close enough)... what a car oh my what a car, both fast and easy to drive. Best thing I had ever driven, really :D

If it weren't for one darn ECS coming loose in a qualifier, that would have been almost perfect. As the outer pin ran off, it shredded a c-hub, plus the bone is shot where the "link-ball" connects from the axle, too. Having polled a few mates running the same car, this is a not-so-uncommon issue. What aftermarket, circlips-based 52mm DCJ's do you guys recommend beyond RSD's? Exact part-refs would be fantastic. thanks in advance.

Also, sharing experience about shock diaphragms (remember the conversation from a few pages ago?). Yokomo bladders work well and don't swell with Losi oil, so it's a go for me, thanks to whoever gave me that tip. they are a tad stiffer though, so rebound settings are to be adapted. Interestingly, one of my xray mates confirmed that his original shock diaphragms don't swell - he's using hudy oils so there is some truth to the discussion from before. The bottom line is, by using Losi oils instead of xray/hudy oils I can finance a lifelong supply of yokomo bladders :ha:

Lastly, I confirm some of the camber link screws on the top-bulkheads tend to come loose. This is really really weird. Even with proper tools... so check them out often rather than loctiting them :)

Still an amazing car nonetheless... almost drives itself!

Thanks,
Paul

Not sure if you did this, but I had the same thing happen with the ECS, and now I put locktite on the screws. Hasn't happened since.

Thanks - I did... degreased them upon assembly, then loctited... still off the ECS and into the C-hub the pin went. So now back to circlips-based DCJ's. Suggestions welcome. The rest of the car is tanfastic... :ha: