Originally Posted by Geberit (Post 14756520)

They changed the comment! Weird...

Originally Posted by Bar (Post 14758386)

Could just be a translation thing, he was using a new Brass motor mount though!

http://ets.redrc.net/2016/12/chassis...uno-coelho-7/#

Can't really see with the battery in

Originally Posted by Skiddins (Post 14758424)

To be honest, looks like a standard motor mount, but with a brass 'lipo stop' mounted to the opposite layshaft mount

Originally Posted by Skiddins (Post 14758424)

To be honest, looks like a standard motor mount, but with a brass 'lipo stop' mounted to the opposite layshaft mount

Originally Posted by Slapjack (Post 14757963)

In addition to that question I have a steering question. My car doesn't turn in as good as all the other vehicles out there and it slows me down tremendously. I pretty much have the box setup. I run on carpet wth foam tires I run 10k diff fluid. Steering is 100% on the radio so not sure where to go from here. Actually I used a setup that changed all the hinge inserts to the middle ones and put the notch on the diffs to the top postion. Messed up the steering a lot. So I put the diffs back to the bottom position and put the .5 inserts pointing outward in the rr and the middle inserts in the rf. for the front I have the .5 outer upper corner in the ff and fr. This helped some but I'm still pushing in the corner and taking the turns wide. I'm running 45% drag brake so the esc does all my braking. I do this cause I can't seem to just give a little brake on the radio it's either nothing or I slam the trigger all the way forward. I can't seem to do like half brake.
Also if it matters the track is kinda small so it's not a fast track. I have the avid alum chasis but wouldn't the carbon chasis be better on carpet? Or not really?

Originally Posted by OttoKrosse (Post 14758332)

Just finished assembling my t4 17, everything is mounted except the top deck, motor, ESC and receiver. the issue is when I lay it on a setup board I see a tiny bit of light under the front and rear of the aluminum flex chassis that came with the kit (a U.S. kit). It was perfectly flat before I started putting it together. I've decided to not use the center stiffening brace between the servo mount and the motor mount for now, at least until I can get some track time on our asphalt track.

Before applying the protective film I'd like to make it lay flat.....any ideas or input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Originally Posted by daleburr (Post 14758448)

On the underneath shot it looks like the flat motor plate (with the flex adjustment holes) is brass.

Originally Posted by TryHard (Post 14759070)

Other thing that stands out on the setups they both ran are the wheelbases are fully forward (arms with 2mm shims in front). Speaking with Alex, arms all the way back on carpet is to make the car more stable and less twitchy on high bite conditions..which makes sense given they also used brass FF blocks to.

Originally Posted by OttoKrosse (Post 14758332)

Just finished assembling my t4 17, everything is mounted except the top deck, motor, ESC and receiver. the issue is when I lay it on a setup board I see a tiny bit of light under the front and rear of the aluminum flex chassis that came with the kit (a U.S. kit). It was perfectly flat before I started putting it together. I've decided to not use the center stiffening brace between the servo mount and the motor mount for now, at least until I can get some track time on our asphalt track.

Before applying the protective film I'd like to make it lay flat.....any ideas or input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Originally Posted by Dan Hamann (Post 14758085)

Ultimately and unfortunately, you are in uncharted waters more or less. The last touring car that Xray designed around foam tires was about 6 years ago, and the norm since then has deviated away from foam tires. If you could post a full setup of what you are running, as well as pictures of the track/ track surface (you say black carpet, is this the new CRC FT2 carpet?) and potentially a video of some sort, I think we could start steering you in the correct direction. However, I would agree right away that an Xray Solid chassis would be ideal, as well as running the screws and spacers for the layshaft mount, and the stiffest settings for the center brace.

Originally Posted by vabroom (Post 14758724)

I had this problem also, the flex alum chassis that the US gets is 0.25mm thinner causing some screws stick out on the bottom of the chassis. For me it was the flex motor mount (the long one that connects to the motor mount) that cause the problem. I use a dremel and a countersunk bit and cut a small countersunk on the bottom of the flex motor mount and bottoms of any part (bulkhead, suspension, etc.) just to make sure. Takes about 15 minutes to do. Hope this helps and makes sense.

Originally Posted by niznai (Post 14759493)

You mean you cut the countersink around each and every screw hole in the alloy bits?

Originally Posted by vabroom (Post 14759521)

Yes, I only needed to do the bottom of the flex motor mount (I think that's what it called) since the chassis would rock left to right and right to left on a flat surface. I dremel it lightly for 2-3 seconds for each hole just enough to have a small countersunk where the screws enter. I didn't have to do the bulkheads and suspension parts but I did.