rays_tt

iTrader: (26)

Tamiya #53876

Drift Demon

iTrader: (1)

do you have a part number for the turnbuckles for your upper arms? my rear turnbuckles on my upper arms have bent, hehehe!!

rays_tt

iTrader: (26)

No I don't have the part number for those, but they are 18mm turnbuckles.

needrcspeed

iTrader: (7)

Anyone tried a Mamba Max/5700 and 3 cell lipo in their TT-01?

I am seriously addicted to sucking speed out of my RC cars...and my TT-01 is next on the hit list. I have a Novak SS+/5800kv in it now and run a 6cell ni-mh. My Mamba Max arrives today and a 3-cell lipo is in the works.

Drift Demon

iTrader: (1)

I had a 5700 on 6cell NIMH in mine, upgraded the drivetrain to STEEL universals and alloy propeller shaft and all new joints. It handled it extremely well, i though there was no way it would hold up with the 5700, but it held up awesome. Im about to shove a 3S into my 4600 now, so ill let u know how that goes!!

rough512

iTrader: (12)

@Demon

Do you have any fix to the propeller shaft's excessive vibration? Any hopup I can use?

rays_tt

iTrader: (26)

Try putting some O-rings into the drive cups to reduce the movement of the shaft.

Frost

iTrader: (56)

u can try this... it solved the vibration problem on my tt-01


STD22SP

Drift Demon

iTrader: (1)

This will be my next propeller shaft i use, im currently using a tobee craft lightweight shaft and cup joints, hoping it would eliminate the play, but had no success, my cup joints have big marks in them from the prop shaft...

rays_tt

iTrader: (26)

I've thought about getting that, but I dont get much play, and its $30US so still deciding

bshookup

iTrader: (21)

I'm trying to get a TT01 ready for the SPEC class at a TCS race, and I have not figured out how to get rid of a nasty on-power push. I have the adjustable upper arms, adjustable steering links, and oil filled shocks.

So far I have given the car more camber in the front than the rear, put in some toe-in, lighter oil in the front, and I tried to lower the front ride height and decrease the front droop by putting spacers inside the front shocks to limit shock travel. Any ideas from you experienced TT01 drivers?

rough512

iTrader: (12)

Try stiffening the springs up while keeping it driveable. A 2deg toe in rear block can help minimize oversteer.

A one way diff or tight ball diff will also help.

Try running a touring body with a small, almost insignificant spoiler. . I tested an NSX body vs an Opel body yesterday and I like the slightly looser feel of touring body. I had to use the 2deg block to offset the absence of rear downforce.

Kruzer

mailboxck.... did you ever find a solution to that camber slop of the TT-01?... I'm having the same problem right now... even with the stock front upper arms, when I used a camber gauge to measure the camber the left (driver side) camber is -1 which is what's it suppose to be... but the right (passenger side) camber is +1 which would make it 2 degrees off..... what could be causing this? can anyone help me?

Kruzer

bshookup... you can try getting a front one way unit.... a toe-in rear upright can help you with stability... but for the fronts, if you want more oversteer, you need to toe it out... if you want more understeer, give it more toe-in... and as for shocks... you need more droop in front and less at the rear... but that shouldn't have too much of an effect

Kruzer

bshookup... i forgot to mention.... it would be a good idea to have 0 degree camber in front and negative 1.5 or 2 degree camber in the rear....