CTE

I would echo what everyone else has said - definitely get good shocks. I have built an Iconic Stock Classs TT01E for racing at my club, and I'm running 50mm M Chassis dampers with 2mm longer eyelets to get te right ride height and droop without any adjusters. You could achieve the same getting some Yeah Racing shock gear 55mm shocks and building them with an o ring on the inside under the piston. I have ended up with a pretty uneven setup on the shocks to tame the seriously wayward rear end of the car. The stiffest front springs I have with 500wt oil, and rear with the really soft red M Chassis springs with 300wt. Although in the Iconic class you can run the spec 17t motor, a few of us at the club take it a little further and just run Tamiya Torque Tuned motors with fixed 25t pinion and 58t spur gear from the high speed gearset. I'm running mine off the TBLE-02S ESC with lipo alarm plugged into the battery.

Other than that we're allowed an alloy prop shaft and full bearings, and are allowed to replace the steering arms and drag links with turnbuckles and ball adjusters. That takes a lot of slop out of the steering and let's you adjust the front toe. I have made the front steering arms out of 16mm grub screws and spare shock eyelets from damper parts sprues. Pack the front diff with grease as much as you can, and make the rear diff as free running as possible. One thing I would suggest (which we're not allowed either!) is the toe in rear uprights 53673. It will really improve rear traction and make it much less hard to drive.

I ran at the track for the first time last weekend and it's actually pretty quick, because on a technical track you're not at top speed that often. We aren't allowed to add camber links in the rules, but to be honest that's one less thing to worry about. The best setup I found was running harder tyres at the front than the rear. Sweep34 front, Sorex32 rear. Most race tyres are 24mm so it's probably worth buying some spare 24mm wheels, or just buying a couple of full sets of pre-glued wheels and tyres. If you want spoked wheels with decent tyres, the Ride Pre-Cut Slicks are pretty good.

dlruk

What is your club CTE? I'm up Carlisle way (well, 70 mins!) and have also built up a TT01 for the Iconic, not done it before. Ran it briefly on a car park but hoping to try it on the track before the race meeting. Do you find the rear is really loose then and you are compensating by taking grip off the front ie with the stiff springs? Have you tried the rear diff with some grease etc as it may be that it is too open so causes it to randomly spin out, bit like a fwd m-chassis with a dry kit diff.

CTE

I am a member of Broxtowe Model Car Club (BMCC) which has a permanent outdoor asphalt track in a patk north west of Nottingham. Non-members can race for a little more entry fee. We are now racing again most saturdays. Google broxtowe model car club, or if you are on facebook, find the club page.

As for the car, yes i found the rear massively loose and have a very stiff front soft rear suspension. I am running the rear diff open for as much grip as possible and filled the front diff with grease so it's tighter, but still lets the opposite wheel turn backwards when one wheel is rotated as per the rules. Playing with the dual rate and expo helped too. I am running loads of expo (like - 46 or something) to make it less edgy around the straight ahead. Normally i hate this setup, but it helps with this car. I really wish stock class would just allow the toe in rear uprights. It would make the cars so much better.

The biggest thing for me was staggering the tyres. Harder fronts than rear. My plan for racing tomorrow is to run worn Sweep BRCA 34 fronts and less worn Sorex 32 rears. Seems to work. I have some new Sweep 32 asphalt tyres to scrub in so i will see how they feel. Got some Sweep 24 in case its REALLY cold.

dlruk

I've entered the Iconic round there, looks like a fun track

Blueshark

Frankly a lot better than a stock tt01, i have 2 and will post some pictures.
handles a lot better imo.

Blueshark

TT01 CARBON F360

TT01 CARBON F360

TT01 CARBON F360 w/ Feigao 540 brushless.

TT01 CARBON F360 w/ Feigao 540 brushless.

This is one of my conversions. Runs very smooth.

Blueshark

TT01 Carbon Scooby with Mamba Max. This runs super smooth. And super fast!

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

I made a little video of the TT-01e build. The chassis is very inexpensive right now and I use it to make some of my bodies look good on the shelf. Nevertheless, I made it as a guide for starters, too.

Blueshark

Just sharing my build.
drifts well!

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

I just acquired this TT-01 Type-E this morning and she's sweet. Box stock, but that's fine as we have a class for these.

tim fry

iTrader: (1)

Hi All

I built up some TRF shocks and made them as the instructions say using 1 O ring under the shock shaft but the shocks seem too long as the ride height is still high. Should I have added more O rings ? What is everyone using on theirs?

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

The 50mm shocks from 3Racing and Yeah Racing would probably lower the chassis better. Sounds like you are using the 55mm shocks and you may need to add more than the 1 O-ring inside to go lower.

https://www.yeahracing.com/shock-gea...050gm-00036297

sosidge

You'll need short springs to get the ride height down low, I used to use M-chassis ones but there are lots of short springs out there now.

rccartips

iTrader: (3)

Sold my Awesomatix 800 and Xray T4 to focus on using our 2010 TT01 for racing in our open modified class. Reason is I believe a 251mm wheelbase and narrow track may be good on our 16m x 30m technical outdoor track. The tub chassis makes it easier to create undertrays, more downforce with less drag.

Phase 1 - initial shakedown with a heavy 150gm Tamiya Celica Turbo body. Only 0.1s slower than our regular modified race car on low grip track.
Phase 2 - Use lightweight Xtreme Twister body (70gm) and flat undertray to generate downforce and stability. Not yet tested.


Tub chassis makes undertrays and other downforce ideas easier.

GuyIsDamGood

I came back to the I.S. 296 school yard for some fast lap-times.

I ran the:

Tamiya TT-01: 41.620
-Futaba 3PM X
-Hobbywing XR10 PRO (Stock Spec)
​​​​​​-Orion Vortex 10.5T
-Futaba BLS 451
-Futaba R603
​​​​​​-HPI Slick Tires
​​​-Ecopower 2s 5000mah -45c

Tamiya Evo 5: 40.963
-Futaba 3PM X
-Orion Vortex/Ko Propo
-Orion VST2 10.5T
-Futaba BLS 451
-Futaba R603 FS
-Gravity GST Semi Slick
-Orion Carbon 2s 5800mah -110c

RS4 Sport 3: 41.757
-Futaba 3PV
​​​​​​-Hobbywing Xerun 120amp
-Hobbywing V10 G3 10.5T
-Futaba 9451
-Futaba R203GF
-HPI Tires with foam insert
-Ecopower 2s 5000mah -45c