Tamiya TB-Evolution III
08-12-2004, 11:19 PM
#6511
Originally posted by Rick Draper
Sorry but if your breaking tamiya hubs and knuckles then you shud not be using this car. In 5 years of running tamiya TA04's, 414's, evo 3's, and 415's all with the same design of knuckle i have never broken one. The only thing i have done is after loads of rebuilds strip the thread out of the bottom of one of the knuckles. Rick
Sorry but if your breaking tamiya hubs and knuckles then you shud not be using this car. In 5 years of running tamiya TA04's, 414's, evo 3's, and 415's all with the same design of knuckle i have never broken one. The only thing i have done is after loads of rebuilds strip the thread out of the bottom of one of the knuckles. Rick
08-12-2004, 11:33 PM
#6512
Originally posted by Rick Draper
Sorry but if your breaking tamiya hubs and knuckles then you shud not be using this car. In 5 years of running tamiya TA04's, 414's, evo 3's, and 415's all with the same design of knuckle i have never broken one. The only thing i have done is after loads of rebuilds strip the thread out of the bottom of one of the knuckles. Rick
Sorry but if your breaking tamiya hubs and knuckles then you shud not be using this car. In 5 years of running tamiya TA04's, 414's, evo 3's, and 415's all with the same design of knuckle i have never broken one. The only thing i have done is after loads of rebuilds strip the thread out of the bottom of one of the knuckles. Rick
08-12-2004, 11:33 PM
#6513
car not running straight
are you running the stock black colored turnbuckle rod ends? i suggest switching to the low friction gray colored ones. i also got a used evo3 and this is one of the first things i replaced, not too expensive (though labor intensive because i hate threading turnbuckles 
) this may decrease the amount of slop in those areas.
also, i suggest getting a suspension shim kit. it comes with different thicknesses of shims to remove any slop in the suspension arms and c-hubs/rear hub carriers. youll have to do this by trial and error to prevent over-shimming and binding
IMHO, these inexpensive suggestions may prevent your car from wandering in the straights
) this may decrease the amount of slop in those areas.also, i suggest getting a suspension shim kit. it comes with different thicknesses of shims to remove any slop in the suspension arms and c-hubs/rear hub carriers. youll have to do this by trial and error to prevent over-shimming and binding
IMHO, these inexpensive suggestions may prevent your car from wandering in the straights
08-13-2004, 03:05 AM
#6514
Tech Addict
Re: car not running straight
Originally posted by marvi
are you running the stock black colored turnbuckle rod ends? i suggest switching to the low friction gray colored ones. i also got a used evo3 and this is one of the first things i replaced, not too expensive (though labor intensive because i hate threading turnbuckles ) this may decrease the amount of slop in those areas.
also, i suggest getting a suspension shim kit. it comes with different thicknesses of shims to remove any slop in the suspension arms and c-hubs/rear hub carriers. youll have to do this by trial and error to prevent over-shimming and binding IMHO, these inexpensive suggestions may prevent your car from wandering in the straights
are you running the stock black colored turnbuckle rod ends? i suggest switching to the low friction gray colored ones. i also got a used evo3 and this is one of the first things i replaced, not too expensive (though labor intensive because i hate threading turnbuckles
) this may decrease the amount of slop in those areas.also, i suggest getting a suspension shim kit. it comes with different thicknesses of shims to remove any slop in the suspension arms and c-hubs/rear hub carriers. youll have to do this by trial and error to prevent over-shimming and binding
IMHO, these inexpensive suggestions may prevent your car from wandering in the straights
Also do you know of any way to adjust the rear toe?
08-13-2004, 03:08 AM
#6515
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by EVOtech
If the car's on weight, then, IMHO, no they aren't. A far better investment would be (Square again) uprights and steering arms.
Again, IMHO, the hubs and uprights (particularly front) are far more of a liability than the bevel gears.
The LW prop shaft goes some way to preventing stripping, but not, as we found out, if the input bearing disintegrates. All you get then is a metal ring and lots of shredded plastic.
If the car's on weight, then, IMHO, no they aren't. A far better investment would be (Square again) uprights and steering arms.
Again, IMHO, the hubs and uprights (particularly front) are far more of a liability than the bevel gears.
The LW prop shaft goes some way to preventing stripping, but not, as we found out, if the input bearing disintegrates. All you get then is a metal ring and lots of shredded plastic.
The biggest problem with the evo 3 was the soft gearbox cases, the square ones fix this. Why do you want to creare a problem where there is not one? Rick
08-13-2004, 03:16 AM
#6516
Tech Master
i agree and disagree.
i agree with rick that thye older type hubs/uprights are one of the strongest on one of the highest competition car.
i also have the same faith in the new ones.
i have never broken a single suspension part on my evo2.5,evo3sl,414,415,ta04.
i have yet to try evo4 as iam waiting for the indoor season to start!
i have tho the lightweight suspension instaled on my 415 and will test it at barham this weekend.
my first time at barham was a complete waste of time as i didnt finish none of the 3 heats and 1 final out of two although i was leading.
i think that beats ur number of dnf in one day ah rick?
i agree with rick that thye older type hubs/uprights are one of the strongest on one of the highest competition car.
i also have the same faith in the new ones.
i have never broken a single suspension part on my evo2.5,evo3sl,414,415,ta04.
i have yet to try evo4 as iam waiting for the indoor season to start!
i have tho the lightweight suspension instaled on my 415 and will test it at barham this weekend.
my first time at barham was a complete waste of time as i didnt finish none of the 3 heats and 1 final out of two although i was leading.
i think that beats ur number of dnf in one day ah rick?
08-13-2004, 03:19 AM
#6517
Tech Master
i disagree that the suspension on the evo3 is the weakest link.
its
1 the soft gearboxes.
2 lack of shimming as standard
rick you racing at the ko?
its
1 the soft gearboxes.
2 lack of shimming as standard
rick you racing at the ko?
08-13-2004, 03:22 AM
#6518
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by trf racer
i disagree that the suspension on the evo3 is the weakest link.
its
1 the soft gearboxes.
2 lack of shimming as standard
rick you racing at the ko?
i disagree that the suspension on the evo3 is the weakest link.
its
1 the soft gearboxes.
2 lack of shimming as standard
rick you racing at the ko?
08-13-2004, 03:30 AM
#6519
Tech Master
Originally posted by Rick Draper
Nope not doing the KO, taking a bit of a brake from racing after the Tamiya eurocup euros as i have lost interest in racing a bit and need to find the fun again. Might buy myself a 1/8th scale buggy and do a bit of that over winter. Might sell all my tamiya stuff as well if anyone is interested? Rick
Nope not doing the KO, taking a bit of a brake from racing after the Tamiya eurocup euros as i have lost interest in racing a bit and need to find the fun again. Might buy myself a 1/8th scale buggy and do a bit of that over winter. Might sell all my tamiya stuff as well if anyone is interested? Rick
u are the only one so far who can beat john winter
08-13-2004, 03:39 AM
#6520
lightweight suspension kit
has any of you tried the reversible lightweight suspension kit for the evo-3 and the 415 and does it really works
08-13-2004, 03:42 AM
#6521
Originally posted by trf racer
i disagree that the suspension on the evo3 is the weakest link.
its
1 the soft gearboxes.
2 lack of shimming as standard
rick you racing at the ko?
i disagree that the suspension on the evo3 is the weakest link.
its
1 the soft gearboxes.
2 lack of shimming as standard
rick you racing at the ko?
1) I never said any of the knuckles or uprights had broken.
2) I find RDs attitude 'shouldn't be driving' an insult, not that I drive anyway, just in case the blind can't see.
3) Replacement of the plastic knuckles and uprights adds a great deal of stability to the car. TRF racer should at least admit to the rear being better. I say the front is better too. If nobody else has tried it, no right to comment.
4) The aluminium diff cases do precisely NOTHING to the rigidity of the car. They add weight. I agree they are probably a better proposition if you can afford the extra weight, BUT if you want rigidity, why say you gain it with the gearboxes and then throw it away by taking the centre brace out?
08-13-2004, 03:50 AM
#6522
Tech Master
i havent tried it so dont know but iam saying that the standard plastic ones should be ok.
obviously the metal ones will be stronger.
i never said yousaid they brake.
all i said is dat they are not the weakest part like u said.
obviously the metal ones will be stronger.
i never said yousaid they brake.
all i said is dat they are not the weakest part like u said.
08-13-2004, 03:53 AM
#6523
Originally posted by trf racer
i havent tried it so dont know but iam saying that the standard plastic ones should be ok.
obviously the metal ones will be stronger.
i never said yousaid they brake.
all i said is dat they are not the weakest part like u said.
i havent tried it so dont know but iam saying that the standard plastic ones should be ok.
obviously the metal ones will be stronger.
i never said yousaid they brake.
all i said is dat they are not the weakest part like u said.
I didn't say they were the weakest part either.
RD did though.
You will see the result on Sunday. 76g lighter!
Can you find your own way or do you want to follow again?
I will bring some lead down in case u can't make the weight
08-13-2004, 04:10 AM
#6524
Re: Re: car not running straight
Originally posted by Voodo_Magic
Thanks for the reply i will try this.
Also do you know of any way to adjust the rear toe?
Thanks for the reply i will try this.
Also do you know of any way to adjust the rear toe?
08-13-2004, 05:24 AM
#6525
Originally posted by EVOtech
Lets can this.
4) The aluminium diff cases do precisely NOTHING to the rigidity of the car. They add weight. I agree they are probably a better proposition if you can afford the extra weight, BUT if you want rigidity, why say you gain it with the gearboxes and then throw it away by taking the centre brace out?
Lets can this.
4) The aluminium diff cases do precisely NOTHING to the rigidity of the car. They add weight. I agree they are probably a better proposition if you can afford the extra weight, BUT if you want rigidity, why say you gain it with the gearboxes and then throw it away by taking the centre brace out?
Regarding the Square gearboxes youīre completely wrong. I doubt you ever had these in your car. Using these gearboxes even the 2.5mm chassis is way stiffer than the 3mm chassis with the stock plastic gearboxes. So the centerbrace isnīt needed any longer as it makes very little if any difference.
Just look at the 415 or the Pro4 where also no centerbrace is run because of a very stiff chassis construction.