glennhl

iTrader: (16)

I have both and run every Saturday on medium bite asphalt. I love both cars, but it's taken me some time to tune the 7.1 because it has more steering and for me that's not a good thing. I love my 7, but with some changes I've gotten the 7.1 to work well. For that money, I'd be tempted to go with the 7 unless you are running on carpet then I'd get the 7.1. But remember, once you get the 7, it will cost around $200 to upgrade, so if you think you will ever upgrade, buy the 7.1 now. Plus, you HAVE to get the steel front outdrives and the DCV's, that's another $50 to $60 you have to spend on the TC7 even if you don't upgrade it.

So the way I look at it, $275 plus $55 is $330 for the TC7. The TC7.1 can be had for around $410 if you have any Tower Coupons. So is it worth the $80 savings? That's a tough decision, I'd probably go with the 7.1, in the long run it will be the faster car. All the factory guys said they picked up some time with the 7.1.

Edwin Pibal

iTrader: (1)

thanks Mikey, I had that number said by a few people now, so when Bob says that's what it, that's what it is 8)

ed

Jade67

iTrader: (5)

Thank you. I will be running carpet so might as well go big out of the gate

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

If you've got Tower coupons, the TC7 plus extras won't cost $330.

AeRacer805

I'am planning on running some Tamiya bodies for the USGT class at my local track. If the stock front body post aren't long enough to fit the bodies. What other brand of body post do you USGT guys suggest for my TC7.1?

glennhl

iTrader: (16)

Oops, you are absolutely correct. It will be around $300. I don't remember what the coupons was for $345 total, probably around $40 to $50 off. And the 7 is $290 at Tower, not the $275 he found. But he said he is going to run on high bite carpet, so with that info, I'd definitely go with the 7.1

AeRacer805

I plan on running some Tamiya bodies for the USGT class at my local track. If the stock body post that come with TC7.1 are too short what other brand of body post do you USGT guys suggest that I use?

Scottrik

iTrader: (261)

The stock body posts can be extended quite easily with some 3mm shims (like are used for suspension link adjustments) and longer 3mm flat head screws. I mounted a HPI Dodge Challenger body on my TC6.2 (same posts) doing this. It took a fair number of shims (iir about a centimeter/10mm worth) and some 25mm longs screws. 30mm screws wouldn't be a bad idea and cut to length.

Scott

glennhl

iTrader: (16)

Well, the track was rather slippery this last Saturday, the experts were over a lap off their typical runs. The TC7.1 (21.5) was still a little loose coming out of the turns on power. So was the TC7 (17.5). Well, I'm going to load on the Randy Caster setup that he used at our track (Mesa, Arizona outside sealed asphalt). I'm putting .5mm of anti-dive in the rear of both cars, should be more stable on power. I also set the roll centers like Randy used and on the TC7.1 I will run the same progressive springs in the front (2.5-2.7) and the 2.7 springs in the rear. On the TC7, I'm leaving the gray springs all around. The only real difference from Randy's setup is I will continue to run 3 degrees rear toe instead of 2.5 (I need the stability) and I will run a little wider front track. We will see if this helps. My only problem is I hope I'm not chasing a set up just because the track was cold and slippery.

Scottrik

iTrader: (261)

The track condition can't be helped, you have no control over that. What I WOULD suggest is that you have made two comparatively big changes by moving your arms out AND going to stiffer springs (hopefully you didn't change shock mounting holes too, thus a third change). What you don't know is if one of the changes helped and one hurt, whether both helped incrementally, one or the other made no difference, etc. You really should try to keep things to one change at a time so you can ascertain exactly what seems to help and what makes no measurable difference or works against you.

Scott

tbrymer

iTrader: (10)

Don't count this past weekend. Try your changes when the track is typical. Also, remember that Randy was running modified and you are talking about a 21.5 and 17.5 class.

glennhl

iTrader: (16)

I thought about the modified, but it seems to me if he is not loose with a mod motor, I should be great with 17.5 and 21.5 motors. I'm kind of surprised that the track was not good yesterday, it really wasn't that cold out. Must have been the rain washing away our accumulated sugar coating.

micrors4guy

iTrader: (50)

Try the 2.5 is the rear over the 2.7.

glennhl

iTrader: (16)

I will do that if I'm still loose, I have the Associated Grays on the rear right now (2.65 to be exact) and I can go to the Associated Whites on the rear which are 2.47.

tbrymer

iTrader: (10)

Like someone mentioned above 2.5 in rear with the 2.5-2.8 progressive in the front seems to work pretty well on our track.