irvinew

Running the Reflex short short tower on my 7 and I had bought the Yokomo slf2 shocks. I had a bear of a time getting a dead shock but finally got it done by swapping out the bladders for the Associated ones.

They seem a fraction of a mm out of size but they still work; so far.

Question is do I continue with these or do I use a different bladder; yokomo black? the original ones were pink.

I am assuming the stock bladders were the culprit on my frustrations.

Big Features

iTrader: (4)

What's wrong with the 7.1 AE shocks/towers?

Bubonic-X

iTrader: (4)

The Reflex shock towers can be used on the old bearing caps (7.0) rather than having to switch to the new bearing caps

Scionara05

iTrader: (2)

Ok i just put the dcj's on and when I turn the wheels left and right together it feels like it sticks but when u turn them individually there fine u don't feel it while driving but on the stand up do

trigger

iTrader: (15)

Did you make sure your pins are lined up when assembling.

Scionara05

iTrader: (2)

Yeah i built them as per manual and double checked it between the instructions in the package and the .1 manual
Only does it when u turn it by hand together individually it's fine

phatboislim

iTrader: (26)

did you put them on the right side?

Scionara05

iTrader: (2)

Yes I was double and triple checking it and had someone else look at it to make sure it was right but this no jump track stuff is all new to me on the track u don't feel it just when it's on the stand

glennhl

iTrader: (16)

Are the two pins in the barrel, in line with each other or 90 degrees to one another?

Scionara05

iTrader: (2)

If u mean both pins are in at the same wholes then yes they aren't in an xray pattern if that's what u mean

Lord_Darkhelmet

I'm assembling a new tc7.0 kit and running into a small snag.

The problem:

I have the bulkheads, diff, spool and bearing caps bolted in. When I place the chassis on a piece of glass it feels very flat to the surface, IE - does not seem to have any tweak.

Now when I put the upper deck on it falls into place nicely and seems to line up good. If I tighten all the upper deck screws (in a X pattern) the chassis becomes slightly tweaked. It rocks a little when resting on the glass. Its not a huge amount but definitely not as flat as without the upper deck installed.

If I loosen the upper deck bolts enough that the upper deck can float slightly on the bolts, I notice the rear left and front right of the deck can float nice and free on the bolts. The right rear and left front does not float at all on the bolts, they bind by a small amount.

If I flip the upper deck over it still binds on the front left and rear right bolts. I tried to loosen the bulkheads then install the upper deck leaving all the bolts loose and then tightening everything slowly but it still is tweaked once tightened up. The belts are not too tight, same problem without front belt installed.

I'm not sure how to solve this. Can I ream out the holes on upper deck a little to stop the binding and hopefully fix the tweak? I'm starting to think one or more of the bulkheads was not machined correctly.

Thanks for any help
Dean.

glennhl

iTrader: (16)

Yes, that was what I meant, so that is good. I hope you find your problem.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

It is probably a difference in thickness in the anodizing between the bulkheads. A little sanding and you'll be good to go....

MattW

I think it's really difficult to get all 4 bulkheads in exactly the right position and 100% aligned. So i always open up the holes in the top deck with a 3.1mm drill bit - so pretty much exactly what you suggest.

Scionara05

iTrader: (2)

From the 7 to 7.1 the bearing caps are the same or are they different hight because the towers are different wanted to get the shocks and towers to have a .1 being i have the dcj's and outdrives already only missing the shock package