395LikesTeam Associated TC7 & TC7.1 Touring Car
03-21-2016, 04:23 AM
#451
made 2 changes to my TC6...one which included using the TC7 shocks...the car feels sooo much better. i can only imagine how the TC7 feels right now.
03-21-2016, 09:29 AM
#452
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (64)
My first track time with TC7 yesterday. I can tell TC7 is 10 times better than TC6.2.
Pro
1. Shocks: 10 times better than TC6.2. Amazing!!!
2. C Hub: 5 times stronger than TC6.2
3. Stock Setup: 5 times better than TC6.2. Save me 3 month track setup time and money (I can go to my local track only on Sat, twice a month)
4. Plastic Quality: the same as B5M. Top quality.
Con
1. DCJ: If the kit has DCJ at the same price, TC7 might be the best seller.
2. No chassis hole for the opposite pinion position: For little more convenience if it is available.
3. Shimming: Still need little shimming works if you really like the tight suspension but it is acceptable and the car is still very consistent without shimming the suspension.
My best lap time is improved 1~2 second with the same electric equipment. Thank you Team Associated!!!
Pro
1. Shocks: 10 times better than TC6.2. Amazing!!!
2. C Hub: 5 times stronger than TC6.2
3. Stock Setup: 5 times better than TC6.2. Save me 3 month track setup time and money (I can go to my local track only on Sat, twice a month)
4. Plastic Quality: the same as B5M. Top quality.
Con
1. DCJ: If the kit has DCJ at the same price, TC7 might be the best seller.
2. No chassis hole for the opposite pinion position: For little more convenience if it is available.
3. Shimming: Still need little shimming works if you really like the tight suspension but it is acceptable and the car is still very consistent without shimming the suspension.
My best lap time is improved 1~2 second with the same electric equipment. Thank you Team Associated!!!
Last edited by Jae Racer; 03-25-2016 at 12:42 PM.
03-21-2016, 03:30 PM
#453
2. No chassis hole for the opposite pinion position: For little more convenience if it has.
...The TC7 looks really nice, ...watching this thread.
03-21-2016, 09:14 PM
#454
Ran the TC7 in a class we call Spec GT. 21.5 motor, blinky, touring car, any tire and a 5.5 final drive ratio. It's a very competitive class. I ran my career best on the current track configuration (4 races old) at 24 laps, 5:11. We had three cars in the 25, then a whole gaggle at 24 laps, then a few at 23 and 22. I was the top of the B main and bumped my way into the A main. I only moved up one spot in the A main, but that's me, not the car.
The car seemed more settled and turned in better than before. The second heat the rear end got a little loose, but I was running 36 tires in some pretty hot weather. I went with 40's in the main and the car settled down.
Steve, thank you for the setup. I'm sticking with the 1.4 front bar because the car turns in plently quick for my lack of talent.
Thanks,
Glenn
The car seemed more settled and turned in better than before. The second heat the rear end got a little loose, but I was running 36 tires in some pretty hot weather. I went with 40's in the main and the car settled down.
Steve, thank you for the setup. I'm sticking with the 1.4 front bar because the car turns in plently quick for my lack of talent.
Thanks,
Glenn
Glad that the setup worked well for you! I'm sure with some time you'll refine it more to your driving style and conditions!
So looking at what I should order with the car, and I always want to have spare hardware during a build. However, is there a screw set that already exists for say a TC6 that would give me what I need? Otherwise I've listed out everything from the manual for the TC7 and may just buy additional quantities of stock hardware when I get the car. More spares the better anyway.
I'll later update to the DCV kit and order different springs and spare hubs, arms, etc. Just for *building* the car I really like knowing if I drop a screw or two I'm not SOL.
Also, if I'm running high bite carpet for USGT, is there a weight of diff fluid I "should" use? I may as well get that for the build. I've not used a gear diff before, my current car is an old Cyclone TC with ball diffs so this is new to me.
Thanks.
I'll later update to the DCV kit and order different springs and spare hubs, arms, etc. Just for *building* the car I really like knowing if I drop a screw or two I'm not SOL.
Also, if I'm running high bite carpet for USGT, is there a weight of diff fluid I "should" use? I may as well get that for the build. I've not used a gear diff before, my current car is an old Cyclone TC with ball diffs so this is new to me.
Thanks.
Unfortunately, there's no standard hardware kit for the TC7 (or any of the other previous versions) that I'm aware of. There are aluminum screw kits, but I don't think that was what you were asking for?
03-22-2016, 09:53 AM
#457
Here's the part for reference http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFWKS&P=ML
I hate battery tape but with my Cyclone TC I just lived with it. Still have plenty but would hate to buy another roll
03-22-2016, 10:02 AM
#458
Thank you. Do you happen to know if the TC6.2 battery strap works on this car? I didn't see it listed on the TC7 page at Associated's website.
Here's the part for reference http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFWKS&P=ML
I hate battery tape but with my Cyclone TC I just lived with it. Still have plenty but would hate to buy another roll
Here's the part for reference http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFWKS&P=ML
I hate battery tape but with my Cyclone TC I just lived with it. Still have plenty but would hate to buy another roll
03-22-2016, 03:01 PM
#459
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If you use that it will hit the bell crank unless you are using the floating post. it will hit when turn to the right. I tried it and I wasn't getting full range to the right. Hope this helps
03-23-2016, 05:41 AM
#460
Hey everyone, i am from Australia and the only problems that i have had with my TC7 is that is feels a bit lazy and under steers on exit of a corner when coming back onto power, i have broken a servo horn after running the car for 3 race meetings. The car feels really good just that under steering and the car feeling a bit lazy makes is a bit hard to drive at times. Any suggestions from any of the experts on here on how to improve my car? I have been racing for 5 years or so now but still struggle with setting a car up.
03-23-2016, 12:27 PM
#462
Ran the TC7 in a class we call Spec GT. 21.5 motor, blinky, touring car, any tire and a 5.5 final drive ratio. It's a very competitive class. I ran my career best on the current track configuration (4 races old) at 24 laps, 5:11. We had three cars in the 25, then a whole gaggle at 24 laps, then a few at 23 and 22. I was the top of the B main and bumped my way into the A main. I only moved up one spot in the A main, but that's me, not the car.
The car seemed more settled and turned in better than before. The second heat the rear end got a little loose, but I was running 36 tires in some pretty hot weather. I went with 40's in the main and the car settled down.
Steve, thank you for the setup. I'm sticking with the 1.4 front bar because the car turns in plently quick for my lack of talent.
Thanks,
Glenn
The car seemed more settled and turned in better than before. The second heat the rear end got a little loose, but I was running 36 tires in some pretty hot weather. I went with 40's in the main and the car settled down.
Steve, thank you for the setup. I'm sticking with the 1.4 front bar because the car turns in plently quick for my lack of talent.
Thanks,
Glenn
03-23-2016, 06:16 PM
#463
My set up at the moment is pretty much straight out of the box besides 40 weight shock oil all around, 4000 diff oil, slightly shortened wheelbase of 1mm off stock. Everything else is as it comes out of the kit.
03-23-2016, 07:32 PM
#464
Actually with the fdr requirement, you are forced to get a 1S Short Stack motor that you can spin high rpm's. But you are correct, it's not hard on the motor, mine typically comes off around 130F. As far as being on the slow side, it's around a lap faster (25 versus 24 laps in 5 minutes) than USGT. The USGT cars have more speed, but the Spec cars get around the corners better.
03-23-2016, 07:53 PM
#465
Maybe try lighter oil, perhaps 35 or 37.5, adding more shims on the bellcrank for less ackerman effect could give the car a more positive front end feel. If the car still pushes on power, you can try going thicker in the gear diff, as that will help free up the rear on power, yet may calm the car down into the corner.