DjManeyecool

Ive checked cables ,motors ,not 100% sure on settings .
my motor is censored and cable plugged in .
If i move the wheels the motor will spin thus making clunky feel and takes a while to get the speed to full .

Motors are 100% fine.ive got steering .checked solder points fine.motors do get hot so does the cables .so not playing with it anymore till i can get a fix.

Turnigy Trackstar 120A Turbo Sensored Brushless 1/12th 1/10th ESC.
Setting with Program Card are: Default

Operation Mode :*2.For/rev/Brake
Initial Brake :*1. =Drag Brake
Drag Brake :*2. 5%
Brake Strength :*4.
Voltage CutOff :*3. 3.2V/cell
Punch Profile :*7. Level 7
Neutral DeadBand :*2. 3%
Boost Timing : *1. 0deg
Turbo Slope :*4. 18deg/0.1s
Turbo Timing :*1. 0deg
Boost Timing RPM :*5. 4000
Turbo Delay :*3. 0.1sec
Boost Timing ACC :*2. 100RPM/deg
Reverse Speed :*3. 75%
Drive Frequency :*1. 8KHZ
Brake Frequency : *1. 1KHZ
Temperature Set : *1. On
Restore Default : *1. No

I must ask does this ESC only work with a Turbo Motor ? or censored motors (with in limits of ESC.) as the motors ive been trying to use are not Turbo.and are well under amp=70-90max .thanks guys.

Govert

Things I would check:

-Full lipo
-ESC calibrated the proper way
-Throttle trim to neutral and throttle switched to NORmal instead of REVerse
-A, B, C motor wires connected the right way
-Solder joints all done the right way

But first suspect: Sensor cable bad or not plugged in fully. A bad sensor cable occurs quite often, so it should be suspect #1.

Not sure if you're a basher or a racer, but if you're a racer, change your operation mode to forward/brake.

If your problems are still there, I would advise to video it and post the youtube link.

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

First thing I would check is the sensor cable, just install a known good one. Start by resetting the esc to default then set it to your radio. We have had trouble if any of the radio settings were off. Double check them before calibrating the esc to the radio. As far as I know this esc works with any "sensored" motor. There isn't anything other than marketing that makes a "turbo" motor.

Broadwater

iTrader: (4)

i had the same problem, it was the sensor cable.

DjManeyecool

Censor cable is 100% ok checked with others ,Throttle trim to neutral and throttle switched to NORmal instead of REVerse SET to Normal on radio,Solder joints are fine.I did notice that if i use the program box to set it to for/rev/brake it hates it starts to heat up the wires/motor ,i tried /rev/brake same thing but with for/reverse it works BUT also throttle forward = forward -- throttle rev = forward half throttle wtf ? trigger radio forward and reverse = forward .

And as well (tested with 2 motors-new) it takes a nudge to get motor/s to spin out of the car so freely.but again after the nudge it spins. im starting to think this esc is just stuffed.

+ YouTube Video

DjManeyecool

have a vid to try help with diag-

Govert

Did you calibrate the esc?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...X938172X44.pdf


EDIT: Your A -B- C esc to motor wires seem to be reversed!

Blue and orange wires should be swapped, if I see it correctly, and I think I do.

TrackStar1

I think Govert may have got it right there, looks like you have soldered your orange and blue motor wires incorrectly, which would account for the sporadic bursts and the wires getting hot. However as you don't show the back of the ESC it has hard to be 100%. If you could take photos and PM them to me we can sort this out pretty fast. Just make sure you take a photo of each element ESC (where the wires are soldered), receiver and the motor and that they are very clear.

DjManeyecool

ok some progress,but as of last night ive placed the wires a-a-b-b-c-c also checked the wires are good again .But had to reverse the throttle in order for forward motion.did some P/Box ,still only does for/rev. But that's the only setting it works on tho still the push to move thing happens.It's very very slow even my 10.5t was doing like every 1 elses on the track that zing sound this sounds like a motor bike brrruuup

THEBIGBULL

iTrader: (5)

If that is your currant wiring on the motor, it is wrong.

A....Blue
B....Yellow
C ...Orange

It should be the same on the ESC

What is your motor timing set at ????

DjManeyecool

12awg wire- as for the wiring on the motor, it is correct. look again even the cables are color correct.not that means anything at all.

As for motor timing i have zero idea of that .here is a vid that shows what it can do saves writing that up. ive been doing the same as this vid for mine as well tho set everything on mine to zero as i thought ill learn this later on.(tho did use every setting he did for the same result & seen no performance or less performance)

here is that vid.

+ YouTube Video

Kevin Marcy

The pictures clearly show the color sequence on the ESC is Blue-Yellow-Orange, and the motor is Blue-Orange-Yellow. These MUST be the same on sensored systems. Swap the yellow & orange on the motor.

DjManeyecool

woops ill do that now.Sorry for my ignorance stupid me lol .

DjManeyecool

ok i got the wires correct now my mistake ,im starting from scratch with this full batt- P/Box is all default ok lets sort this out if this is a faulty esc or if it's simply the settings.

Seanzky

You also might want to use shrink tubes so the solder points aren't exposed. You might accidentally short them.