TrackStar1

The TrackStar ESCs all have capacitors included.

DjManeyecool

Sorry for the delay into the response work. lol ::

i got the suggested servo you linked (thanks) that is the right 1 to have as i noticed mine is :Power HD LF-13MG the specs to many tho did notice this.(can provide all specs on request) Operating Voltage: 4.8-6.6 DC Volts. so got the new 1.

And got my self a new radio :Flysky Silver RC FS-GT3C ,i got this as it's an upgrade to the old radio i had i did not want to bye AA batteries any more and i had it on my watch list on eBay for quit some time. i know it's more or less the exact radio that i all ready have but a back up is always good tho ill be using thee new 1.

Also can some 1 please explain to me what BEC means thanks, sorry im novice i know xd.ill get there 1 day.

Seanzky

DjManeyecool, have you bought a new ESC yet? Did you get another 120A Turbo or did you get the 120A Gen. II? (I have both now and they're great. I have three pairs of TrackStar ESC and motors total.) Has your issue been fixed?

SouthFloridaApp

iTrader: (6)

I have a few 120 amp Gen 1 turbo esc's, but need another one as a backup. For those who have the Gen 1 and Gen 2 what is the difference?

Seanzky

Off the top of my head, the price and the motor limit... 3.5T on the Gen. II vs. 4T, I think, on the regular 120A.

DjManeyecool

Seanzky: yes i did get the new as posted last page.just waiting on my stuff to arrive.

1spunspur

iTrader: (1)

Here goes a couple of simplistic questions.Did you disconnect your servo & check your steering linkage for binding?And for trackStar1,is the UBEC just a capacitor with a complicated PC?

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

Battery eliminator circuit. It is circuitry within the esc that regulates the voltage and current to the receiver. Most receivers and servos don't like the 8.4+ volts that a 2 cell battery produces so most esc's have that built in. Unless it is a 1 cell specific esc which has a booster circuit to raise the 4.2+ volts to 5 or 6 to the receiver and servo.

Govert

I already gave up, but this was the last I could think of. Good thing you mentioned it.

Make sure your steering links are buttersmooth. Any binding will cause electronical trouble and/or major handling issues.
I have seen multiple servo meltdowns (literally) because the steering system was binding.

Please start all over again, check everything, from your car to your electronics. Building a car needs attention, patience and skills. Rebuilding as well.

I would just take the time and start checking everything, from a gritty bearing to a bad solder joint. Check all radio and esc settings and make sure everything is set correct.

One more thing: make sure your epa/travel is set correct on your radio. Your servo doesn't like it at all if your epa settings are set high enough to cause the steering to bind and thus wrecking your servo .

Take your time and take it step by step.

kivinfrumunzid

I think you have misunderstood what TrackStar1 was saying, you need to go through a process of elimination, that is why he was asking what servo you were using, so that could be eliminated before you change something else. 4.8-6.6v is a normal servo, high voltage servos operate off 7.4v, they need to work directly from the battery power and won't work properly through a normal receiver. But you now own a much better servo, so not all lost.

From the sounds of what you have been describing I reckon you have a busted receiver, you could have just bought a new receiver to check that, but who doesn't like a new radio? Good luck.

DjManeyecool

Ok so now i have a new radio connected and the new servo ,as of last night the car was running normal now i have Checked everything Binded the radio ,i have steering but no throttle ,i have the esc set to forward and brake mode .i can slightly hear the motor make a bingggggg sound either forward or reverse ,i think this esc id shit it self ,and i only just bought this new 1 .on a good note the steering is superb no more steering slow down. im thinking of just giving up on this particular esc and get a different 1 all together. i don't get it tho i used the old radio and same thing ,the whole car has been checked for solder points everything is fine ,but this.

And yes if there was an error with the censor cable it would flash all lights .only the orange light is flashing and that's saying it's on forward/brake mode .Did try out other modes to no luck.

DjManeyecool

i think it very well be a bad batch OF sencor cables .this weekend im going to our race meet ,these guys have over 30-yrs with in them and then some so im sure they will find wtf is going on. im 100% sure ive wired everything up 100% this time AS it worked then nothing .Got yet another esc coming this time another type .same as my last 1 but 100amp. the last 1 i had did not break at all. but can;t use it as it blown up due to puting a 4.0t motor in it i over looked that part lol. This time i srsly hope things work out. ffs. But ill get there that's all that matters.Till then ill work on my car get some much needed pivit balls for the suspension arms instead of using washers/shims. new dual motor fan ,get that in will keep me busy .

kivinfrumunzid

Post some pics of your set up.

And don't bother with dual fans, just get a WTF fan and get your gearing right. If you need dual fans with a 4.5T motor there is something wrong there.

DjManeyecool

just an update ive new esc coming Hobbyking® X-Car 120A Brushless Car ESC (sensored/sensorless) ,and a Turnigy TrackStar 6.5T Sensored Brushless Motor 5485KV
with usb linker. a good friend at our track has the same esc. and will program it in for me. all im going to do is solder it together and install it . im not even going to plug the batt- in till i see him at the track. This concludes this thread.