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Old 11-14-2023, 12:50 PM
  #646  
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topfuelhobbies, yes that's what I was talking about. Seemed to help when I initially started testing and was looking to free the car up in the corners. Now that I have the car rotating and carrying speed in the corners, I need to back it down a notch because the car over rotates(as the tires heat up).
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Old 11-17-2023, 05:37 PM
  #647  
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Anybody racing tomorrow? I'll be at 180 raceway getting it in...going to test the one-piece topdeck, narrow hex in the rear, Red Hawk body and thicker weight dampener fluid....and long push rod link in the rear. Should be a good day to figure some stuff out...
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Old 11-18-2023, 10:27 AM
  #648  
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the Teacher... what are your toughst from your tests?

BTW@ ETS
Manu Stankowitz an P2 after Quali in 40+ and FWD
Andreas Myrberg himself on P6 in FWD
Dionis Stadler P10 in MOD...

Big speed forward from the team!
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Old 11-18-2023, 04:51 PM
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Mailman81, had a good day of testing today. Qualified 8th in the "A" and finished 5th overall. Our track is a small tight carpet track which gets insane grip. I first played around running the longer push rod link in the rear of the car. Seemed to plant the rear of the car more and did drop my lap times a tenth. I need more time going back and forth with the long vs short link before I can say it is definitely better. I also played with narrowing up the rear of the car which seemed to help the car get through the corners better but not a major change but it did help with corner speed. One thing I did that made a big difference was going to thicker lube in the shock. Made the car less erratic and more predictable. Last thing I tested today was bodies, played around with the Wolverine, Red Hawk and the GOAT. Wolverine yielded the best lap times...the others were not far off but the wolverine was the fastest and easiest to drive.
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Old 11-20-2023, 08:12 AM
  #650  
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Teach car was good he is really getting it figured out I think softer springs all the way around might be the last piece of the puzzle
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Old 11-20-2023, 10:42 AM
  #651  
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would be awesome to see an filled in Setupsheet .)

https://www.iris-racing.com/mediafil...etup_Sheet.pdf
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Old 11-21-2023, 05:49 AM
  #652  
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Hey guys

Damn, what a ETS race we had this time around. Lots of head turning our way this time.

New one piece top deck works great. Increases cornerspeed, reduces the overrotation issues on high traction tracks and makes the car easier to drive.
Internal springs, improves handling, all over the track.
front 60wt oil, both long black and short black spring, with 12.9 main spring
rear 70wt, both long black and short black spring, with 26.7 main spring
is what we used in touring
Tourings setup sheet are coming

Front Wheel Drive
First ETS
First Quali
First TQ run
Setup sheets from Manu and myself is coming

Well
I had a blast and cant wait to continue to push testing and development to make sure you guys have the possible best time at the race track.

Cheers.
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Old 11-21-2023, 03:30 PM
  #653  
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Andreas, I have 2 questions about some of the choices that you made when designing the ONE/ONE.5. These may have been talked about in the past by others but would be cool to get your perspective. First, why go with a 3 belt drive train? I've always been under the impression that less moving parts are better and more belts equal more friction which equals more things working against the motor. Second, why go with a hinge pin setup for how the arms mount vs. arms mounted via some type of pivot ball system directly on the chassis? Not bashing the car at all just want your perspective as the designer.
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Old 11-22-2023, 02:14 AM
  #654  
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The idea with the 3 belt is fairly simple.

1. We have massive amount of tourqe in our cars today. What ever speed class you are running, we have massive amount of tourqe.
2. Do to this, one needs a fair amount of belt tension, to make sure that the belt does not skip. So you can see this on most 2 belt cars, that they now have additional belt tensioners ballbearings to get vibrations away from their belts and such.
3. With 3 belts we get lower loads on each belt, so we can run less tension and thus have very similar actual friction. We also offer 2.5mm belts as well.

A-arms mounting.
- Balls are fine, but many of them have play, or get play very fast. Up down, right, left. Or they are sticking.
- to get away with some of this, the mounting positions between the balls needs to be further apart, (unless you can get the play/slop at the balls correct) as otherwise you will have quite the big movements at the wheel. and with my shock and spring positioning this was difficult to get.
- my design is also alot sturdier upon impact compared to in my opinion most ball solutions out there.
- 3.rd, with my design, we can use the plastic insert to create different length of A-arms to be able to perfectly setup our cars for different tracks, tractions and layouts. Without having different legnth A-arms where customer needs to spend additional $ to change setups, and more $ for spare parts etc.
- We have 1 A-arm, for all 4 corners of the car and 1 A-arm for 3 different length. All in One.
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Old 11-24-2023, 11:05 AM
  #655  
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Posted a presentation of the IRIS ONE.05 FWD. If you're interested, you can find it here:

https://kentech.wordpress.com/2023/1...-presentation/



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Old 11-24-2023, 04:30 PM
  #656  
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Originally Posted by Andreas Myrberg
The idea with the 3 belt is fairly simple.

1. We have massive amount of tourqe in our cars today. What ever speed class you are running, we have massive amount of tourqe.
2. Do to this, one needs a fair amount of belt tension, to make sure that the belt does not skip. So you can see this on most 2 belt cars, that they now have additional belt tensioners ballbearings to get vibrations away from their belts and such.
3. With 3 belts we get lower loads on each belt, so we can run less tension and thus have very similar actual friction. We also offer 2.5mm belts as well.

A-arms mounting.
- Balls are fine, but many of them have play, or get play very fast. Up down, right, left. Or they are sticking.
- to get away with some of this, the mounting positions between the balls needs to be further apart, (unless you can get the play/slop at the balls correct) as otherwise you will have quite the big movements at the wheel. and with my shock and spring positioning this was difficult to get.
- my design is also alot sturdier upon impact compared to in my opinion most ball solutions out there.
- 3.rd, with my design, we can use the plastic insert to create different length of A-arms to be able to perfectly setup our cars for different tracks, tractions and layouts. Without having different legnth A-arms where customer needs to spend additional $ to change setups, and more $ for spare parts etc.
- We have 1 A-arm, for all 4 corners of the car and 1 A-arm for 3 different length. All in One.
Congratulations on the car, the company and the latest results. I think that your car has some really nice design features (at least the FWD that I saw in kentech's review).

Anyway, I have to ask: why the bronze dampers? Is it a material limitation, a marketing decision to highlight the dampers, or what? I really am curious about this choice..


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Old 11-24-2023, 08:30 PM
  #657  
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Originally Posted by mr.rev
Congratulations on the car, the company and the latest results. I think that your car has some really nice design features (at least the FWD that I saw in kentech's review).

Anyway, I have to ask: why the bronze dampers? Is it a material limitation, a marketing decision to highlight the dampers, or what? I really am curious about this choice..
I assumed the dampers were aluminum with a bronze color anodize. If they really are bronze, then I too will be interested to find out why.
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Old 11-25-2023, 01:33 PM
  #658  
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Originally Posted by glennhl
I assumed the dampers were aluminum with a bronze color anodize. If they really are bronze, then I too will be interested to find out why.
You are right, thats Aluminium, I assume that the have a special coating, thats why the had a different color
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Old 11-26-2023, 07:00 AM
  #659  
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Originally Posted by glennhl
I assumed the dampers were aluminum with a bronze color anodize. If they really are bronze, then I too will be interested to find out why.
I'm sorry, I have no idea what the material is. I was refering to the color only.
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Old 11-26-2023, 11:42 AM
  #660  
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Originally Posted by mr.rev
Anyway, I have to ask: why the bronze dampers? Is it a material limitation, a marketing decision to highlight the dampers, or what? I really am curious about this choice..
I think someone's grandma chose the colour combination..

At least it's something different then all the grey and blue.. but still, it looks really old fashioned
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