WagwanBumba

iTrader: (1)

Hey Otaku

Which track do you usually go to? I bought an M car recently and am in HK also

otaku521

Hi WagwanBumba
I am at PYC Race Track -
They are finishing the indoor track soon... maybe open up in Mid / End of May?
Maybe see you around sometimes?

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

I really like my m chassis cars and am interested in a Gambado. Is the Naked worth $239 against the Grid at $99 with friction shocks ?
Thanks

otaku521

Which edition of naked? Rcmart edition Beside the shocks the chassis is carbon fiber not plastic tubbed

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

Yes rcmart. The chassis is a cfrp chassis which is not proper carbon. Is the price difference worth it ? Will it need oil shocks like the Tamiya m chassis cars do ? Or is it ok with friction ones ?

otaku521

I personally running the plastic tub version not the CFRP version - reason being that there are a lot of fast guys running 4.5T 4WD touring my track (Like T4 BD7s) - The tub version IMHO is a little more durable against them crashing into me even I evaded in the 'slow' lane

but in all M class races here everyone is running CFRP as it is lighter

as for the oil shocks... I think it is worth getting it as the car hops a lot even if I used thicker AW grease in the friction shocks in place of the thick damper grease they provided and also avoid the repetitive refilling grease once they got dirty or spurred out. Using oil shocks are enclosed and don't need to replace every other run or so

IMHO rcmart edition is worth the purchase because most items that you might want to upgrade in the future (I don't remember is the alum. steering set is included in the rcmart edition or not) as if I were to re-buy it all over again - I would get it instead of the $99 kit in the beginning.

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Otaku - I'll bear this in mind.

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

Does the RCMart edition Naked have steel counter gears and shafts ?

otaku521

http://www.rcmart.com/hobby-25598-gambado-naked-rcmart-limited-cfrp-mini-p-63139.html?cPath=420_1176

Shaft yes ... gear no I think...

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

Looks like some racers like the friction shocks, are the oil ones worth the extra cost ?
The tub chassis car and metal gears and shafts, plus spare shocks saves $100 over buying the Naked cfrp car. I'm really undecided on this.

otaku521

IMHO oil ones are worth it because it helps the car from hopping while cornering (you will see the rear of the car skips up and down while entering and exiting tight turns... and the friction ones got a lot of dirt and grime after each run and you might have to take it apart to clean it out and refill at the end of each day - which is even more "PITA" (Also you might need to inspect after each run if any damper grease have been leaked out or uneven because of the dirt/grime added which made the car unbalance)

you can however be like me and upgrade along the way... but at the end would probally spend more than getting the rcmart edition.

Here is what I would suggest if you wanted to go thru my route:
1)Get the regular car kit and RE-assemble completely (because the diff and dampers are not filled in the "ARTR" kit)
2) Fill the Diff with putty or 1mil or 500k Hudy Oil (I am using putty)
2a) Or you can get the ball diff which IMHO is better built than the gear diff
3) get the oil dampers for front and rear (they are sold in pairs) Fill it with a thicker than touring car normal running damper oil (depending on track or you can see my references in previous posts to start) (IE: for me my Xray T4 is running at 400 cst / my ABC will be running @ 600 cst)
3) get different springs for each different track conditions (regular car kit comes with black springs which are too hard IMHO) Red, Yellow, Perhaps Blue as well
4) If you are running a faster motor (faster than 17.5 IMHO) you might need the thicker optional motor plate and fasten it with counter sink screws (see my previous post) or else the standard silver ones will easily tweak in crashes and might chew gears easily
5) The car itself IMHO cannot sustain more than 13.5 NA (Non-Boost, Non-Turbo) IMHO - I have seen ppl running at 8.5 before... but I don't think the gears can last very long...

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Otaku, if I need oil shocks I may as well by the Naked kit.

awizner

Good Morning . My name is Angel and I am from Spain . I bought a Mini abc gambado and was surprised by the quality of materials and completeness that comes to how economical es..cvd , s , bearings , allen screws, two bodies , tires with good grip..I have a problem and is not that engine mount to avoid prejudicing the transmission . I thought of a combo HW justock XR10 17.5 or 21.5 . With these engines would hold the differential gear ? Would put silicone Hudy of 1000000 as I read and exchange the motor plate for the optional .. you give me some advice? And forgive but my English is not very good

otaku521

Hola... maybe you can cross with Spanish and English? that some of us maybe better help you with? I don't understand what you mean by "engine mount to avoid prejudicing the transmission"

Do you mean avoid chewing up the gears? (inside the diff box and outside)

For Brushless motor I strongly put a super heavy silicon oil like Hudy 1,000,000 or 500,000 or Putty

The Thicker Optional Motor Plate is to avoid tweaking from bumps and crashes that will easily misalign and chew up the gears. I strongly recommend to fasten with countersink screw instead button screws instead for even tighter Fit.

awizner

Perfect. I'm sorry but my English is not very good .. I will try to explain as best I can .. I will mount the optional engine plate to prevent the transmission is broken by blows or use very powerful engines. I will use silicone Hudy 1000000 . Brushless motor that is recommended? 21.5 or 17.5 ? Is there any part that is necessary also to change?