Airwave

iTrader: (1)

It indeed depends of the track conditions, but the common values are
- 5.2mm of clearance in front, 5.4mm in the back
- 6mm of droop in front
- 5mm of droop in rear
- 1.5mm of camber all around

Koukikid

Hey guys just taught I’d share what I’ve done with my pro5, I run the car at yatabe arena which was black carpet but not any longer, it’s now some form of gray carpet,
I’ve recently installed infinity if14-2 shock towers and infinity short shocks, the towers are a really close fit with minimal filling needed on the bolt holes. I use the kit shock spacing same as if14-2 and currently testing smj progressive springs.
on a 5 minute run it’s take 0.3s off my average and 0.5 off my overall quickest lap.
If people would like to see photos I can upload them,

thanks
James

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

They’ve changed the carpet? Nice!
How often do you race there?

Koukikid

Yup carpet is changed as has where the track is, its now where the off road track used to be,
I try go once a week but for the most part its every 2 weeks with work being busy

Rumner

Hi!
Can you share some photos of your car?

Koukikid

I’m trying to but it won’t let me due to my post count being low🙁

tranced

Koukikid I took it upon myself to try your mod, and it went well. Rumner Here's a breakdown of the steps I took.
This attempt was born out of the breakage of my 3d printed front shock tower, which lasted well beyond what I expected: countless hard hits into indoor barriers.

This piece was printed at 4mm, while the stock towers are 3mm.

Upon receiving the infinity IF14-2 towers (from ULTI tyres in California), i was anticipating what Kouki mentioned about the mounting hole filing.
I took a trip to Harbor Freight and picked up a <$10 set of "precision" needle files, typically marketed as for hobbyists, jewelry machining, etc.
The smallest round needle file fit nicely into the 3mm mounting hole.
The infinity towers' mounting pattern is ~1mm too narrow at each hole, so I carefully filed each hole at about 5 minutes each. Note: keep the carbon dust tidy.
I used a white marker pen to roughly draw a 1mm offset line of the existing hole to know where to stop.

infinity tower on top of hb tower.


hb tower on top of infinity tower


the filing process. requires a firm grip and steady hand to make sure the material taken away follows a straight line.

Once finished with filing, I inserted the infinity shock tower bushings which are their way of making shock geometry changes at the tower. This is probably done to allow fine increments since the length from the top to bottom of the shock is so small.
I found the price to be excessive for such a small part. $8 for two, $16 for a full set F&R.
Make sure you order the bushings if you try this mod yourself.

Below, you will see that the stock position of the rear body mount posts facing inward will conflict with the rear upper arm links.
The posts must be mounted facing rearward.
Also, note that the pin which aligns the rear posts must be sanded down to fit in the infinity pin hole. I recon I took away 1mm from the overall diameter of the pin.
I could have enlarged the pin hole on the tower, but I did not want to further modify the part.
Due to this relocation, the distance center to center between existing and new body holes required is exactly 10mm.
I'm running a Zooracing Bwoah and luckily the move of the posts rearward is still within the usable mounting area of the body. Though, this body has a lack of clearance in general around the rear mounting area.



Below you can see the front & rear infinity towers mounted with the Yeah Racing 50mm big bore go dampers & X-ray T4 springs. Note that even with the collars completely closed, the ride height seemed more than I wanted. To lower it further, I swapped the yeah racing lower shock stays with the stock HB aluminum. With a battery mounted, this brought the lowest ride height possible to ~4.6mm in the front & ~5mm in the rear. I typically run 5mm minimum at front and 5.2mm+ minimum at the rear. Since the collars were fully tightened, I can only add preload to counter tweak, which will put me above the desired RH.
With tires mounted, when the chassis is fully compressed the shocks bottom out before the chassis hits the ground. I didn't measure the clearance, but it was visible--maybe 1~2mm? This limits your suspension down travel and may affect handling. I'll report back once I run it.




infinity part names and numbers for your reference. order two 0mm bushing packs if you want a middle setting for both F&R.

order total for the infinity parts was ~$62 shipped.
labor total was about 45 minutes since i had to ream new body holes and trim the rear posts.

Hope this helps whoever is looking to keep running this car!

Rumner

Thanks for the info. My IF14-2 parts arrived ~1,5 weeks ago and i did the same methods. I cant share my car, due to my few post...

Koukikid

Glad to see you guys using my idea, I`ve not run into any ride height issues using the infinity shocks, At 5.2 mm front and 5.4mm rear
I`ve enough shock travel to bottom the chassis out before the shocks. the shock has roughly 9.5mm travel before it bottoms out
I have played around with shock spacing a little and my current setup of 2mm rear top 2mm front top and 1mm front bottom seems good.
Also I moved over to the infinity HBP body posts so dont have the issue of moving posts etc.
My next test will be a change of shock bladder as the infinity shock set comes with the soft bladder and I don`t think these are great and
lack a little consistency so want to try the harder bladder,

I do agree that the infinity stuff is a tad expensive but I`d rather spend a few bucks on some shock bushings than buy a new car because
the Pro5 is a very capable car still.

Please update the thread once ye test the setup I`m keen for some feed back please

tranced

Koukikid ran the infinity towers this Sunday on high/med grip black carpet. In general, the car was cornering flatter and behaving more predictably. I ran the same springs as with my old towers, and changed two settings this weekend differing from my past runs on the same track: 6+ droop front and rear (as measured on droop blocks), and 1.4 front 1.3 rear sway bars. the sway bars made the most drastic change, allowing the rear/whole car to slide at the limit, rather than dig into the carpet and unload the diff which caused wheel pivot (at least that’s what I think was happening). Given enough time, I’d like to try a heavier diff oil than the 10k i was using—say 15 or 17k. Granted, I was on old usgt tires, but these changes and effects should apply to more forgiving conditions as well (though, specific to carpet). I found that allowing more droop also prevented the wheel bite problem, but the car would still over-rotate. I prefer the “drifting” at the limit of the tighter setup. Hopefully usgt adopts a belted tire so we can have more life out of the tires and less setup compensation as they wear.
keep in mind I’m an intermediate b main driver at best. Your experience with these thoughts may differ.

Koukikid

I think we both experienced the same outcome of a much flatter car in the corners, I've used 15k in the rear diff with the setup and i found the car to be a little aggressive on power on corner exit so have gone back to
10k and it seems a bit more neutral. But I'm not on black carpet so my findings may not be the same as yours.

What droop settings where you using prior to changing to 6mm ??