I use shims,maybe need thinker ones(using 0.1).I have tried,the clear,blue an Xrings,all the same for me,all leaked..
Will give it another try,Can't stand it,that I still have leaks.

You needto make your inner arms straight, so you to either flip your XA to A and go A-A, or get an XE/E split mount and go E-E. A-A will be 3mm narrower track than E-E, and A-A will be almost the same track width as you have now so if you want like for like handling that is probably the best option. I learnt heaps on this subject from a blog on thercracer.com.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...dc024c12f.jpeg

Standard setting 4.75mm is equal to 1xx blocks.
-4.4mm setting is equal to 05xx blocks.
-4.0mm is new setting.
+5.1mm is equal to pre 416 blocks era (TRF415/TA05).
+5.5mm is new setting.

I've installed the new SSBB upgrade set recently. I could be having a bit of bad luck but the tolerances seems to be a bit off when using the 5.8 ball cups with the aluminum spring retainers. The new plastic retainers from the parts tree fits good but the aluminum ones get very snug on the bottom ball cups, and makes it difficult during spring changes as now I have to spin the adjusters almost all the way up to remove a spring (previously I would just compress the spring and shake the retainer off). I thought I had my shock shaft too far in the ball cup but it didn't make much difference even at 56mm shock length.

On the new black driveshaft blades, they hold up much better than the white ones and show very little wear for about 5 packs that I've done. The fronts blades broke in after a few runs while the rear remained tight and required light sanding to free up the binding I had. I recommend them but they should be checked for any binding after assembly or initial breakin.

Yes that's true. Spring retainers sit a little bit snug now. But I like it better than before with the old plastic parts, where the retainers where quite loose and spinning around the springs.

What about the tolerances with the new 5.8mm ballcups? I've some lateral play in it, which does not affect functionality but it made me wonder...

It's about darn time! Buying new mounts for every iteration and messing with shims for RC changes was one of my least favorite things with these cars. To be fair, I've only raced my 419 at one TCS race but this little change may motivate me to try it a bit more. I remember sitting in the pits at the TCS race wishing I had my Xray blocks so I could easily adjust something that wasn't so fun on the Tamiya.

Thank you for this Tamiya!!!

I haven't checked carefully yet. When installed on the car, they are slop free in the up/down direction (of shock travel) like you mentioned, while in the front/rear direction it allows some movement, rotation is smooth so overall seems to be okay. However on the bottom ball cup, 3 of the balls seem a bit snug compared to the 4th that's very free. I have to see why it is and if it happens to my other sets.

I adapted 5 cars with the new ballcups (5.0 and 5.8) so far and all I can say, the bottom ones are all snug. I think it has something to do with how far you screw the ballcups. When I rebuilt the dampers I used a caliper for same length on all 4 dampers but this issue (?) wasn't on my view. Maybe unscrewing ballcups a little bit will help.

For me the new mounts are more of a cheaper way of having all the adjustments, but I don't think they make setup changes easier per se. Theres plus and minuses, for example to make a change with the new ones you would have to remove the mount, and remove the bushings as well (and it might not be a breeze if they happen to be snug and not budging), whereas previously you just remove and replace with another mount. On the other hand its nice not having to fiddle with suspension balls, but like some say it might be a step backwards as they may bind the suspension.

Maybe the Yokomo style BD8 bushing mounts are a better compromise. They kept the use of suspension balls in the bushings, and the design of the bushing itself seems to be more durable (the width of the "flange" is almost the whole width of the block, opposite to what most other brands have like the new Tamiya ones.)

BD8 Style Bushings with wide flange/lip and suspension ball socket
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...5b98967be3.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...04b28f0d80.jpg
XRAY / Tamiya Style Bushings, which has a thinner flange/lip and pin socket
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...b9ea7cc90e.jpg

That said, being a sucker as I am I would still adopt them :smile:

I think it has more to do with adjustability. When you have a 5mm pivot ball + insert + mount, how do you get to these new 4mm pin heights? I'm sure Tamiya would LOVE to keep selling us $20 mounts for every setting, but if they want to remain somewhat relevant and competitive they had to get with the times.

- Jose

After about 10 packs of running, the new damper part seems already solved the common problem of SSBB damper. That is, the membrane will sometimes drop into the cylinder after bump. The alum retainer is snug with the new ball end so i will pull the retainer towards the ball end to make sure that it had completely sit on the ball end.

The new adjustable arm is only benefit for the player who is well- known to the suspension theory of RC car. For me I only change the rear toe from 2 to 3 degree depend on the track layout so directly change the rear mount is faster than looking at those stupid bushing. I am more interested on the new rear hub.