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Originally Posted by Kakaru
(Post 14679048)
Thanks for your reply. I know this question may sounds silly but may I know how to configure to lower the diff spool? Can you please help to explain in layman term? Thank you.
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Originally Posted by disaster999
(Post 14679052)
Its pretty simple really, the instructions tells you install the diff assembly with the arrow facing up on the belt tension adjuster, just rotate it so that the arrow is pointing down, this allows the diff to be lowered
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I have no idea if there are actual effects of lowering the front and rear spool. I guess the best way to find out is to try it on the track
I wouldnt be surprised if you didnt feel any noticeable difference either |
High diff has more traction on that end of the car and conversely with low diff.
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Just use the clear tamiya O rings if you do not want them to leak. The Blue ones are much lower friction but can sweat a little. I put in clear o-rings on my club car, I only bother with the blue ones if rebuilding for a big comp.
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Originally Posted by rtypec
(Post 14679120)
High diff has more traction on that end of the car and conversely with low diff.
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I've tested them back to back and that is what I felt. Other drivers have noticed the same. But what do I know :D
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Originally Posted by rtypec
(Post 14679447)
I've tested them back to back and that is what I felt. Other drivers have noticed the same. But what do I know :D
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Originally Posted by niznai
(Post 14679326)
Can you support that statement?
search for --petitrc setup helper-- :D:sneaky:;) @ damper leaking add to the blue o-ring a 0.1mm shim with 4mm inner diameter (part 53586) greeeeeeeeeeeeetingssssssssssss Harry |
lol
Originally Posted by rtypec
(Post 14679447)
I've tested them back to back and that is what I felt. Other drivers have noticed the same. But what do I know :D
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Hi,
I have never tried shims under/between blue o-rings and neither have leaking experience. however damper (mini big bore on 419 with low profile) gets air bubbles after couple of runs. Dampers are perfect after assembling...Any advise not to have so frequent? I assemble it with zero rebound, drilled hole in the cap (I do the 1mm hole via center point of the cap way to up to the connector). Thanks Marton
Originally Posted by King of B Main
(Post 14680179)
lol..... you're only a Reedy champion, multi national champion , and Tamiya World Champion !
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Originally Posted by XRAY_Blade
(Post 14680150)
Hey @all
search for --petitrc setup helper-- :D:sneaky:;) @ damper leaking add to the blue o-ring a 0.1mm shim with 4mm inner diameter (part 53586) greeeeeeeeeeeeetingssssssssssss Harry |
Originally Posted by rtypec
(Post 14679447)
I've tested them back to back and that is what I felt. Other drivers have noticed the same. But what do I know :D
I took the suggestion below and have checked petitrc and couldn't find one shred of reference to diff height. Trawling further, the "hardest" "evidence" I found is a recurrent reference to the same jrx manual over and over in several threads, with people having completely conflicting opinions, sometimes the same person in the same post. Most people mention the effects of CG height, driveshaft angles and gyroscopic effects. All are pretty solidly refuted by others, possibly the gyroscopic effect might hold some influence, but it is difficult to ascertain with any certainty if enough to impact in any discernible way on the car's grip. See the quote below for reference. If you can explain it, please do so, if not you might as well be honest rather than try the offended primadona line. "That is what I felt" and "others said so" never got a scientific paper published.
Originally Posted by kcunamay
(Post 5599968)
My JRX-S also has adjustable diff heights. Info straight from the manual:
Diff Height: Caution! When adjusting the differential heights, rotate the acentrics as to loosen the belts, rotating in the opposite direction, with the belts installed can severely damage the belts. Diff heights in the JRX-S are also adjustable by rotating the acentrics that positions them. The diffs can be adjusted from a full low position to a full high position. The low position will allow the car to roll more and keep the car in a turn longer, increasing on-power steering. The high diff position will give the car a flatter and more responsive feel. It is also possible to change the balance of the car quite drastically by offsetting the height of the diffs from front to rear. Testing has shown that maximum total steering can be obtained by running the front diff low and the rear diff high. For less total steering do the opposite. For less overall traction run the front and rear diffs in the low position. For more overall traction, do the opposite JRX-S Type R Diff Height: Caution! When adjusting the differential heights, rotate the eccentrics as to loosen the belts, rotating the belts in the opposite direction, with the belts installed can severely damage the belts. Diff heights in the Type R are also adjustable by rotating the eccentrics that position them. The diffs can be adjusted from a full low position to a full high position. The low position will allow the car to roll more and keep the car in the turn longer, increasing on-power steering. The high position will give the car a flatter and more responsive feel. It is also possible to change the balance of the car quite drastically by offsetting the heights of the diffs from front to rear. On asphalt tracks with rubber tires, testing has shown the best results with the rear diff in the low position and the front diff in the high position. On carpet with foam tires running the diffs in the low position has yielded the best results. Analysing deeper, it seems that you get more "overall traction" with both diffs in the low position, but if the rear diff is moved high and the front left low, that will give "maximum total steering" (does this mean the front end has more grip? - because that would contradict the statement made in the post I challenged). Of course, not too many lines further down, the jrx-s R manual turns the whole thing on its head! This time there's another variable set added: we're talking about rubber tyres on asphalt: You get maximum total steering with the front diff high and the rear low. What was the jrx-s manual talking about then?! Going back to physics first principles I see little sense in what is "explained" hence my question. My impression is that most people are just repeating some bullcrap they can make absolutely no sense of, because they want social acceptance from their idols, whilst the latter want a bunch of yesmen around to disguise their ignorance but hey, don't be discouraged just because you have won some troffees. It's guaranteed you are a top grade physicist because you can play with a toy car! And you "feel" things others have felt too, let's not forget that. |
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This is well described in the T4 manual. See attached image.
Although a different model chassis, I made this change for the AOC race on black carpet and it made the car a lot easier to drive. Got no reason to think it would be different on a 419. Phil. |
Now I'm confused haha. Honestly, just try it and see how it feels for you. It's only four screws for each end of the car :lol:
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