Tamiya TRF419
#3916
Changes:
Rear diff was at 2k. Changed to 3.5k today.
Front/rear shocks was at 350. Changed rear to 400.
Front springs was SMJ yellow. Rear was SMJ red. Changes are to front only to SMJ red so both are on reds.
Front : 3.5mm spacers on bulkhead. Zero on c hub. Initially was 3mm/0.5mm.
Left untouched:
No changes to front & rear arms spacer. Both are on 3mms on the FF block & RR block.
Drop is 5mm front 4mm rear. Measured according to the 419x/xr setup sheet.
1 degree camber all around
1 degree toe out on the front. 2 degree in on the rear
Ride height : 5.2mm front 5.4 rear
Rear : 2mm spacers on bulkhead. 1mm on upright.
Now I am getting better steering but on power on corner exit, the rear side spins out.
Rear diff was at 2k. Changed to 3.5k today.
Front/rear shocks was at 350. Changed rear to 400.
Front springs was SMJ yellow. Rear was SMJ red. Changes are to front only to SMJ red so both are on reds.
Front : 3.5mm spacers on bulkhead. Zero on c hub. Initially was 3mm/0.5mm.
Left untouched:
No changes to front & rear arms spacer. Both are on 3mms on the FF block & RR block.
Drop is 5mm front 4mm rear. Measured according to the 419x/xr setup sheet.
1 degree camber all around
1 degree toe out on the front. 2 degree in on the rear
Ride height : 5.2mm front 5.4 rear
Rear : 2mm spacers on bulkhead. 1mm on upright.
Now I am getting better steering but on power on corner exit, the rear side spins out.
#3920
#3921
Tech Adept
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 132
Speaking of which, I found it puzzling that most setup sheet for the TRF419, uses 4 mm down stop at the back.
On my kit which is the 419XR (SSBB with its shock tower) by doing this, the droop screws are not even touching the lower deck when I lift the rear side of. The length of the shocks (fully extended) is not long enough to make the arms on the rear to even hang low enough so that the droop screws is touching the lower deck.
So does that mean my SSBB assembly is wrong? i.e. the total length of the shocks is shorter than normal?
On my kit which is the 419XR (SSBB with its shock tower) by doing this, the droop screws are not even touching the lower deck when I lift the rear side of. The length of the shocks (fully extended) is not long enough to make the arms on the rear to even hang low enough so that the droop screws is touching the lower deck.
So does that mean my SSBB assembly is wrong? i.e. the total length of the shocks is shorter than normal?
#3922
Tech Adept
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 245
Speaking of which, I found it puzzling that most setup sheet for the TRF419, uses 4 mm down stop at the back.
On my kit which is the 419XR (SSBB with its shock tower) by doing this, the droop screws are not even touching the lower deck when I lift the rear side of. The length of the shocks (fully extended) is not long enough to make the arms on the rear to even hang low enough so that the droop screws is touching the lower deck.
So does that mean my SSBB assembly is wrong? i.e. the total length of the shocks is shorter than normal?
On my kit which is the 419XR (SSBB with its shock tower) by doing this, the droop screws are not even touching the lower deck when I lift the rear side of. The length of the shocks (fully extended) is not long enough to make the arms on the rear to even hang low enough so that the droop screws is touching the lower deck.
So does that mean my SSBB assembly is wrong? i.e. the total length of the shocks is shorter than normal?
#3923
Tech Adept
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 132
#3925
Tech Adept
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 127
Yes all four. I would also suggest drop 4,5 rear (measured to the bottom of the arm and 5,5 front. Check servo saver or use stiff horn. On small turns with high grip saver sometimes gives up and gives strange behaviour of the car. I assume that you are easy on throttle
as it always possible to spinn around car with motor 17.5 or lower. I also assume that your tires are well prepared and right for the surface.
as it always possible to spinn around car with motor 17.5 or lower. I also assume that your tires are well prepared and right for the surface.
#3926
Changes:
Rear diff was at 2k. Changed to 3.5k today.
Front/rear shocks was at 350. Changed rear to 400.
Front springs was SMJ yellow. Rear was SMJ red. Changes are to front only to SMJ red so both are on reds.
Front : 3.5mm spacers on bulkhead. Zero on c hub. Initially was 3mm/0.5mm.
Left untouched:
No changes to front & rear arms spacer. Both are on 3mms on the FF block & RR block.
Drop is 5mm front 4mm rear. Measured according to the 419x/xr setup sheet.
1 degree camber all around
1 degree toe out on the front. 2 degree in on the rear
Ride height : 5.2mm front 5.4 rear
Rear : 2mm spacers on bulkhead. 1mm on upright.
Now I am getting better steering but on power on corner exit, the rear side spins out.
Rear diff was at 2k. Changed to 3.5k today.
Front/rear shocks was at 350. Changed rear to 400.
Front springs was SMJ yellow. Rear was SMJ red. Changes are to front only to SMJ red so both are on reds.
Front : 3.5mm spacers on bulkhead. Zero on c hub. Initially was 3mm/0.5mm.
Left untouched:
No changes to front & rear arms spacer. Both are on 3mms on the FF block & RR block.
Drop is 5mm front 4mm rear. Measured according to the 419x/xr setup sheet.
1 degree camber all around
1 degree toe out on the front. 2 degree in on the rear
Ride height : 5.2mm front 5.4 rear
Rear : 2mm spacers on bulkhead. 1mm on upright.
Now I am getting better steering but on power on corner exit, the rear side spins out.
#3927
Tech Adept
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 132
Yes all four. I would also suggest drop 4,5 rear (measured to the bottom of the arm and 5,5 front. Check servo saver or use stiff horn. On small turns with high grip saver sometimes gives up and gives strange behaviour of the car. I assume that you are easy on throttle
as it always possible to spinn around car with motor 17.5 or lower. I also assume that your tires are well prepared and right for the surface.
as it always possible to spinn around car with motor 17.5 or lower. I also assume that your tires are well prepared and right for the surface.Take the droop measurement in the front from 5 to 4.5. By the way this is actually called downstop. Droop is a related measurement but not the same thing. Reduce your toe out to .5 degrees. Increase your rear springs to SMJ silver. Change your camber to 2 degrees all around.
#3928

Measure from the red line.
Only do the front to 4.5mm and leave the back at 4mm.
Since you don't have silver, go ahead and use purple springs. They are slightly stiffer than the reds. But you should get at least one set of the linears. I would also suggest going back to 2K diff. If you are running low grip, you will need that. As I mentioned, I use 3-7K for medium grip so you want lower than that.
We may also want to adjust the shims on your inner camber links.
#3929
Tech Adept
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 132

Measure from the red line.
Only do the front to 4.5mm and leave the back at 4mm.
Since you don't have silver, go ahead and use purple springs. They are slightly stiffer than the reds. But you should get at least one set of the linears. I would also suggest going back to 2K diff. If you are running low grip, you will need that. As I mentioned, I use 3-7K for medium grip so you want lower than that.
We may also want to adjust the shims on your inner camber links.
#3930



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