That's pretty much it. The comment on BC24 is to ensure that they're not rubbing too much against the bulkheads to inhibit rotation. A little bit of patience helps and just remember to check it every now and then.

Phil.

Thighten the grub screw down while the stabilizer falls down on his own weight and there is no play between K5 and bulkhead.

Regards.

http://www.thercracer.com/2016/03/a-...roll-bars.html

Here is a guide for setting the anti-roll / sway / stabilizer bars.

Tried the 419X last night at a track Ive never ran on. Ive asked the locals for a basic setup and they all use ,40wt shock oil, 7000wt gear diff oil, 5mm ride height front and back and 2degree camber all round.

The car is a bit floaty and doesnt have a ton of grip round corners which might have to do with how the shocks were built. I was at the track so didnt have a whole lot of time/resources to set up rebound etc.

Overall Im really happy about the the performance and handling. With better setup the car would handle a whole lot better

I would remove the bulkhead shims and the centre post. Move the screw in the lower deck that is mounted near the front of the motor mount to the hole that the centre post grub screw was in (the most forward one).

@Qatmix

I had a race today and I use 3mm Shims on the Bulkhead Front/Rear :lol:
Ok, thats why I was only placed on Third.

But the car was so fantastic to drive and a lot corner speed. Use in rear the D Block and no centre Post and no screw.

My Shocks had no Rebound because I use the black O-Ring explained further above and I use XRay 2.5 and 2.6 Springs. Front in 2 hole and rear in 3 hole.

Was a great day today, no problems with the TRF 419X :sneaky:

Tamiya TRF419X Review
 

Shorter turnbuckles will make the car more reactive.

Here is my write up and review of the TRF419X
http://www.thercracer.com/2016/07/42...eview-and.html

Great write up ! Look foward to reading many more !

Qatmix, please show us your car wihout Body. Will see close the 12mm on the Front Upper Bulkhead. I want to try this on our Home Track.

Very interesting but you always drive on carpet. Same rules on Asphalt?

I think that is a typo. He probably used 1mm, like in the rear.
- Jose

Yep, a typo I better fix it ;)

Simmi here is a great set-up for asphalt http://www.thercracer.com/2016/07/bt...-brookers.html

@Qatmix

I had my one Setup for now :lol:

But the two guys in Front (XRay and Awe) stole my TRF Show, my car work very well, but I lost one round in the finals to fight for viktory that my car deserves :D

I think diff oil is the rule or more Shock oil :p

Here it is:

WRONG -sorry
...but if the rear of the car is overtaken you ON POWER up to the straight you have to give an understeer effect with SOFTER diff oil to compensate this.

If you have a too much rotating rear under braking AND understeer ON power - pls go harder with diff OIL. this helps also in fast double chicanes. car is too tricky in fast chicanes if you have too soft diff oil.

I ran this week at ur local track (boosted Modified) with amazing grip- went harder and harder with diff oil cause car understeer ON Power. steps 8k- 10k- and 20k-guess 20k was solution because my front setup was not at max steering. better 10k next and more bumpsteer etc....

NO diff issues at all with new diff from 419X. it has more then 55 runs on it and it was 51.8 Deg Celsius warm after run.

Low to med grip - Linear SMJ springs front 3.2 and rear 3.0

Super high grip (never drove on that in the last hundred years- dont attend big events) went SMJ progressive yellow 2.5-2.7

front D-D suspension holder -next C -C for more steering also in infield.

greetings
Harry

Hi there,

I have just finished the building of my 419x w/o electronics and these are my main concerns:

• Shocks and zero rebound: after several tries, the most I can get is 2mm rebound or so. As said before in this thread, the more I tight the cap the more rebound I get :S. I will try in the future with black o-rings. In the meantime, I think it is good enough as it is.
• Spool and bearing holders too tight inside front bulkheads: the the diff in the rear bulkheads was nice and it was spinning freely even after attaching bulkhead covers but... I cannot say the same for spool and front bulkheads. It was really difficult to attach the bearing holders into the front bulkheads and, after that, spool does not spin freely at all... It spins, but it seems too tight for me compared to the rear diff. After covering bulkheads, things were not worse but, as soon as I attach the front shock tower, things became even worse :(. People in my club said that it seems a bit tight but anyway, that I should not be worried until 3 or 4 runs... What do you think? should I try to rebuild from scratch or loosen and tighten bulkheads+top deck+shock tower screws?
• Top plate plate and pulley: I would say it is not binding but just for 0,1mm :). I've seen some of you sand the inner side of the carbon plate but others (Qatmix I think) were able to align the plate to avoid binding without sanding. I would like to get from you some advice/trick/suggestion to do that cause I am not able to achieve a good feeling after several attempts (flat surface, cross pattern when tightening, using all screws to attach bulkheads, using anti tweak bar, etc, etc). People in my club said that it will be "sanded" anyway when running a 5.5t but I would like to get some control over that instead of waiting to see the results :S.

I will attach electronic this afternoon and hope to get it running as soon as possible!

Thanks in advance for your comments.
Regards

Is this Fresno Hobbytown you are speaking of ?