Tamiya TRF419
#2221
Im getting ready to rebuild my gear diff and read back on page 56 that replacing the bushings with bearings was not a good idea. Seems if the diff fluid is gona leak past the shim and oring to reach the bearing it would be the same using the bushing. As of now my diff is pretty smooth and leak free. I was thinking about rebuilding it with some ceramic bearings but if its going to be a problem then hoping your feedback will save me the hassle.
#2222
Stay with the bushing in the diff I would say.
#2223
Is there a brace for the top deck to steering posts for the steering rack as an option?
The hole in the top deck directly above in between almost suggests there is this possibility. Yokomo has this:
http://banzaihobby.com/Yokomo-B7-201...b8abe53257cfa9
I know of Qatmix's carbon fiber straight post to post brace. Just wondering.
The hole in the top deck directly above in between almost suggests there is this possibility. Yokomo has this:
http://banzaihobby.com/Yokomo-B7-201...b8abe53257cfa9
I know of Qatmix's carbon fiber straight post to post brace. Just wondering.
#2224
there is one that comes with the 2mm chassis - not sure if available on it's own or not.
#2225
Is there a brace for the top deck to steering posts for the steering rack as an option?
The hole in the top deck directly above in between almost suggests there is this possibility. Yokomo has this:
http://banzaihobby.com/Yokomo-B7-201...b8abe53257cfa9
I know of Qatmix's carbon fiber straight post to post brace. Just wondering.
The hole in the top deck directly above in between almost suggests there is this possibility. Yokomo has this:
http://banzaihobby.com/Yokomo-B7-201...b8abe53257cfa9
I know of Qatmix's carbon fiber straight post to post brace. Just wondering.
#2226
Does anyone have problem that the rear toe aren't exactly the same? Yesterday, I put my car on setup station (integy 1/10 setup station).
I found rear toe has about 0.5 degree difference.
I know rear toe are not adjustable, does this mean I might have bent anything?
I found rear toe has about 0.5 degree difference.
I know rear toe are not adjustable, does this mean I might have bent anything?
#2227
Tech Master
Other things to check are
The ball connector at the top of the rear hub might me bent.
The rear hinge pin
However I would mostly say that it is going to be down to movement in the rear axles if they are not shimmed.
#2228
42296 - Tamiya 419 Aluminum Chassis
Has anyone tried this chassis on their car, especially for carpet racing? Our local track had pretty low grip carpet over the last 2 yrears, but recently more 1/12th scale racers have been running and the car starts to generate crazy levels of grip by mid race day. Traction roll is a major problem by round #3. I think the thinner/ heavier lower plate will lower the CG considerably and any reduction in grip caused by the stiffer chassis could be overcome with softer springs.
Any thoughts?
Erik
Any thoughts?
Erik
#2229
Tech Elite
iTrader: (118)
Has anyone tried this chassis on their car, especially for carpet racing? Our local track had pretty low grip carpet over the last 2 yrears, but recently more 1/12th scale racers have been running and the car starts to generate crazy levels of grip by mid race day. Traction roll is a major problem by round #3. I think the thinner/ heavier lower plate will lower the CG considerably and any reduction in grip caused by the stiffer chassis could be overcome with softer springs.
Any thoughts?
Erik
Any thoughts?
Erik
#2230
Hey, guys,
My friend at track found me a very very forgiving setup for my 419.
I love it so much.
I think it matches my current skills very well(I only started this hobby 1 month ago).
The car does feel a lil lazy when turning(my friend's car was a more twitchy , for the lack of bettery word), but that also means it gives your radio steering "more resolutions".
I am using a M11x, EPA was set to max(to the point you can go more left or right), dual rate was about 80%, exp is 0.
Right now, I can drive at 100% power and not hitting the board.
Very happy with my skill development so far.
Forgot to mention, motor is 24k 17.5
My friend at track found me a very very forgiving setup for my 419.
I love it so much.
I think it matches my current skills very well(I only started this hobby 1 month ago).
The car does feel a lil lazy when turning(my friend's car was a more twitchy , for the lack of bettery word), but that also means it gives your radio steering "more resolutions".
I am using a M11x, EPA was set to max(to the point you can go more left or right), dual rate was about 80%, exp is 0.
Right now, I can drive at 100% power and not hitting the board.
Very happy with my skill development so far.
Forgot to mention, motor is 24k 17.5
#2231
I have had differences in my toe settings before on a new hudy set-up station before. I believe that the toe blocks were inaccurate. this was several years ago(TRF 415/416 era) and since then, maybe Try Hard could back me up( but I think he has moved on to the "other" r/c car manufacturer), they have improved with the introduction of the newer "split blocks" and newer style toe blocks i.e. with italic lettering and the thicker design.
you wouldn't be using the older style blocks, would you? (just asking)
P.S. if you have a good crash you can still bend the ear of the rear toe block. this usually
is the case if you can move the arm forwards and backwards on the pin while everything is still attached to chassis. ( nothing to brag about but I have bent a fair share of bits )
Last edited by 97Clemow; 01-19-2016 at 06:45 PM. Reason: post script
#2232
Here's a video from a few weeks ago of a couple TRF 419s putting in practice laps and generally messing around with the a few fast guys at TQ Raceway. My 419 is pretty vanilla and doesn't have an aluminum chassis or a light weight body. The other 419 has an aluminum chassis and was run with standard and short shock tower configurations.
TRF419 Practice at TQ RC Racing
TRF419 Practice at TQ RC Racing
+ YouTube Video | |
#2233
sorry repeat of P.S.
#2234
Tech Apprentice
@rtypec can I ask for your setup?
#2235
in my opinion, if something was bent, it would likely be the hinge pin. anything bent above the pins would be more likely to effect the camber if the pins are straight.
I have had differences in my toe settings before on a new hudy set-up station before. I believe that the toe blocks were inaccurate. this was several years ago(TRF 415/416 era) and since then, maybe Try Hard could back me up( but I think he has moved on to the "other" r/c car manufacturer), they have improved with the introduction of the newer "split blocks" and newer style toe blocks i.e. with italic lettering and the thicker design.
you wouldn't be using the older style blocks, would you? (just asking)
P.S. if you have a good crash you can still bend the ear of the rear toe block. this usually
is the case if you can move the arm forwards and backwards on the pin while everything is still attached to chassis. ( nothing to brag about but I have bent a fair share of bits )
I have had differences in my toe settings before on a new hudy set-up station before. I believe that the toe blocks were inaccurate. this was several years ago(TRF 415/416 era) and since then, maybe Try Hard could back me up( but I think he has moved on to the "other" r/c car manufacturer), they have improved with the introduction of the newer "split blocks" and newer style toe blocks i.e. with italic lettering and the thicker design.
you wouldn't be using the older style blocks, would you? (just asking)
P.S. if you have a good crash you can still bend the ear of the rear toe block. this usually
is the case if you can move the arm forwards and backwards on the pin while everything is still attached to chassis. ( nothing to brag about but I have bent a fair share of bits )
I have a Hudy setup station and none of my other cars have this problem (these include a TA05R in which I use the same old style single piece blocks I used to check the TRF418).
I corrected the problem by moving to Xray old style split blocks (single screw; I had to drill a hole in the chassis for the locating pin) and it takes an extra 1mm shim on one side to even out the toe. Tamiya has gone down in quality of their manufacturing in my opinion.