Simmi

I think it's the shock towers for 25mm Springs. These are not the Raceberry shock towers.

The XRay damper fit very well.

Qatmix

Thanks. Can't wait to hear how you find it

I have fitted the X-ray sprngs to my TRF short shocks and shaved 0.5mm of the top of the Lower shock ball connector and rear can now hit the deck at the rear.

I will test the ultra low profile towers tonight. I have been told that the 2.5-2.8 progressive springs front and 2.6 at the rear are a good starting point for carpet.

Diavel

Got my shock towers yesterday. Will use them at the ETS race next month. Why is everyone using the xray shocks? I've got the shorter big bore tamiya shocks from the EVO 6 and planned to use these.

vlad_sa

I wanted to test them, and will also test the t-shox as well.

Qatmix

I think the Raceberry ones are made for the X-ray shocks as they only use 20mm Spring. The ones I made for 25mm springs work with a range of shocks (I know a guy that is using vbc shocks, Simmi has fitted the X-ray shocks, but most are using the Evo 6 shocks).

The super low ones I made also work well with the X-Ray shocks I have had that confirmed today


so updated the article, and also changed the order info with a link.
http://www.thercracer.com/2016/01/ta...w-profile.html

Btw, do the X-ray shocks work with longer springs like Yok Blues? I only ask as some X-ray guys change shocks to run longer springs.

J. Kłapacz

Hello
I have samix aluminum plate and still have not tried it, because I noticed that most players use standart TRF carbon plate. At my local competitions on the carpet, I'm the only guy from Tamiya, so I have no comparison, conditions are very specific because, usually at the beginning of adhesion is very low but towards the end of the adhesion increases rapidly, thereby feel that the model is going well, but only in slow parts of the track, but a high-speed corners back slides and very unstable. Is the aluminum plate will help to eliminate this effect, or maybe my setup is bad?

Simmi

My Car is now ready nearly

Because I need 25mm Springs to get the right height. I tried the X-Gear and it will work with the XRay shocks. Next time I will check my other springs like Yokomo or HPI Silver on those shocks.

My 418 dampers with Yokomo springs were too long for the Towers.
I made my shocks with no rebound for carpet but I must say I liked my TRF shocks more

Simmi

@J. Kłapacz

You use a 13,5 Motor and the carbon chassis work better. Play with your camber front 1,5 and rear 2 degree.

Shock rear in hole 2.

I think thats a very nice setup for you.

Juan Aveytia

[QUOTE=J. Kłapacz;14348692]Hello
I have samix aluminum plate and still have not tried it, because I noticed that most players use standart TRF carbon plate. At my local competitions on the carpet, I'm the only guy from Tamiya, so I have no comparison, conditions are very specific because, usually at the beginning of adhesion is very low but towards the end of the adhesion increases rapidly, thereby feel that the model is going well, but only in slow parts of the track, but a high-speed corners back slides and very unstable. Is the aluminum plate will help to eliminate this effect, or maybe my setup is bad?



I've never ran those tires. Try glueing the side walls on your tires when traction comes up. It helps with what your describing.

J. Kłapacz

I changed the camber because the tires wear out from the inside, which is another reason for the tire wear on the inside, after 10 minutes on the track had "the ring of death"

gunjack

I run the new shock towers with my evo6 shocks on hpi pink and silvers. Car felt ok but the indoor carpet track was very cold struggling to get heat into the tyres. Will try my yok springs next week. I did try 350cst oil but found it was far too soft went back to 450 which I will probably stay at.

Marcika

Hey,

I would check stabilizator if it is free to move (some hit can make it fix ;() and play a bit with droop, looks to low, 6-5, 7-6 should work on carpet!rear damper in hole 3.
Attach my recent setup, car was very stable, could have been a bit quicker , but felt good.

190mph

iTrader: (12)

You guys using the center of the outer hinge pins at the end of the suspension arms for the droop figures in your setup sheets as the sheet points to?

Or the bottom of the arm underneath the outer hinge pin sitting on your droop step measure tool?

rtenzo02

iTrader: (3)

Im getting ready to rebuild my gear diff and read back on page 56 that replacing the bushings with bearings was not a good idea. As of now my diff is pretty smooth and leak free. I was thinking about rebuilding it with some ceramic bearings but if its going to be a problem then hoping your feedback will save me the hassle.

Marcika

Hi,

I measure on the outer point when it can flately lay on it.
After proper setting made (7-6) I also measure how much it can upward travel the car still while the wheels still remain on the ground. This is what i check/adjust. Front 1.2-1.7mm, rear 1.7-2.5mm range upward travel i prefer, depends on the grip level, 0.8-1mm difference between front&rear setting on carpet, on asphalt a bit bigger difference. 2mm (6-4 droop)