^unlikely to be MR - 20th in practice!

It's just practice, grip levels aren't even up yet

Akio is quickest so far

I'm having some troubles and I'm dumfounded as to what it could be, my car seems to drift slightly so I'll start off with what I've ticked off.

1. centred the sub trim to 0
2. made sure both steering links are the exact same length
3. i'm running the TRF futaba servo horn
4. set droop to 5 all round
5. shocks are at 61.5mm all round (i checked to within a 0.01 of a mm that they were identical. HPI silvers all round.

I've had the car on the setup station with 1degree of front toe out.
But for some reason i'm still drifting, sometimes left sometimes right its erratic. I don't think it's tweek as I've checked for that too. but sometimes after a run you can see one of the two front wheels pointing a little out.

Anybody else had this experience? doing my head in.

What track? and what servo are you using?

Using a Futaba Brushless Ed, BLS551. Its at RCA so I imagine the carpet has something to do with it too

Hmm, ok. I have heard of centring issues on some servos, but the BLS551 should be fine (assume your using futaba radio gear too).

The pile does have a bit of an effect on the cars at RCA, but given you say the wheels are physically pointing in different directions, thats a bit odd.

Check the screws holding the servo are tight. I make sure to use countersunk washers on all four holes, just for the best grip. The mount itself shouldn't move, and thats the only thing else I can think of.

Check your tweak too, that could be causing a bit of crabbing. Get a tweak station, or just lift the car in the send and check the wheels lift at the same time.

I've got a tweak station, I'll put it back on that and see. Thanks mate

This might sound really obvious - but often the most simple answer is the right one - have you checked all the ballstuds?

I had a slightly loose centre bridge hex ball and it gave traits similar to what you are describing. The stud would "fall" a little left or right (and stay that way) until the next big steering input. Would cause it to wander on the straight.

Also check your uprights and make sure the threads are still good. If the bottom 3x10mm CS screw gets loose this can also happen. Sometimes the thread gets a bit crap and it will never stay tight. Time for $5 of new plastics!

If you are checking your steering on a setup station - make sure you check the throw is even inside and outside also. ie: measure the left and right throw per normal, but then check it inside - left hand wheel angle when turning right. With typical Ackerman settings should be mid/high 20's at outside and mid/high teens inside from memory (assuming near full throw, so >80% DR)

Here is a picture of Marc`s car. You do not see anything but the spacers / roll center and damper position with X springs :p

Here is the Link

Lots of shims on those rear uprights.

Did anyone else see this new release?

42290 - 2.0mm lower deck for low grip

http://www.stellamodels.com.hk/image...ts/TA42290.jpg

Servo saver? If using one, make sure it doesn't have play or worse, wear/binding that would allow two centering positions.

steering rack
 

Hi,
Can anyone please confirm that the TRF419 steering rack is SLOP free?

I had the TRF417 and TRF417v5 and absolutely hated their steering rack designs with all their slop and unwanted play.

So far I haven't seen more precise Steering rack designs then Awesomatix and Schumacher, but I would love to get a 419.

Cheers.

Check your Adjuster (Ball Socket) :nod:

Not the rack, but the links are the problem, and you need to use the new fluorine coated ball nuts to minimise steering play. The "rack" is ballraced so if you want zero play, you need to shim appropriately. Not really an issue.