254LikesTamiya TRF419
04-26-2015, 03:18 PM
#1486
I've just finished my 419 this week, I've typically run Yokomos of late. But owned a 417X in the past. One thing I like and notice about the Tamiya is it comes fully optioned out of the box, the Yoke you need to spend another $100 on for DCJs and turnbuckles.
My 419 has Heiro Seiko screw set in it and really I can't find much else I really need to update which is amazing.
On the suspension blocks this is something Trf have never gotten right is how many shims to use, if you use the 1mm and .5mm in the rear it binds awfully, it's always best having a lot of shims when owning tamiyas.
I don't care what anybody says it's the best looking touring car on the market
My 419 has Heiro Seiko screw set in it and really I can't find much else I really need to update which is amazing.
On the suspension blocks this is something Trf have never gotten right is how many shims to use, if you use the 1mm and .5mm in the rear it binds awfully, it's always best having a lot of shims when owning tamiyas.
I don't care what anybody says it's the best looking touring car on the market
04-26-2015, 06:38 PM
#1488
Anybody have issues fitting a Savox 1258?
The servo body hits and binds with the steering arm.
Looks like I will need to shave the servo body
The servo body hits and binds with the steering arm.
Looks like I will need to shave the servo body
04-26-2015, 06:57 PM
#1490
04-26-2015, 07:11 PM
#1491
How much do you want to spend on a servo?
The savox 1251 is quite popular, and quite cheap ($60ish)
Futaba/KO/Sanwa all make high quality brushless ones - all north of $125
Other options under $100 and proven like the futaba 9551 and xpert 3401 also around.
Lots of options.
As for horns, if you run with boards, and you're not Volkeresque, use a servo saver. Outdoors with no wood - I run a direct horn personally.
The savox 1251 is quite popular, and quite cheap ($60ish)
Futaba/KO/Sanwa all make high quality brushless ones - all north of $125
Other options under $100 and proven like the futaba 9551 and xpert 3401 also around.
Lots of options.
As for horns, if you run with boards, and you're not Volkeresque, use a servo saver. Outdoors with no wood - I run a direct horn personally.
04-26-2015, 07:30 PM
#1492
I have the TRF alu servo horn on mine. No saver
04-26-2015, 08:20 PM
#1494
There's a few things it could be mostly people tighten the screws wrong, don't tight them one by one all the way down. So lightly tighten all 4 and then tighten opposing screws a little more and basically go around doing that until it's right. Tamiya diffs are really good.
Otherwise check the little rubber o ring isn't pinched
04-27-2015, 01:10 AM
#1495
Tech Master
I've just finished my 419 this week, I've typically run Yokomos of late. But owned a 417X in the past. One thing I like and notice about the Tamiya is it comes fully optioned out of the box, the Yoke you need to spend another $100 on for DCJs and turnbuckles.
My 419 has Heiro Seiko screw set in it and really I can't find much else I really need to update which is amazing.
On the suspension blocks this is something Trf have never gotten right is how many shims to use, if you use the 1mm and .5mm in the rear it binds awfully, it's always best having a lot of shims when owning tamiyas.
I don't care what anybody says it's the best looking touring car on the market
My 419 has Heiro Seiko screw set in it and really I can't find much else I really need to update which is amazing.
On the suspension blocks this is something Trf have never gotten right is how many shims to use, if you use the 1mm and .5mm in the rear it binds awfully, it's always best having a lot of shims when owning tamiyas.
I don't care what anybody says it's the best looking touring car on the market
The TRF419 really has struck a chord with people at out club, its quick, strong (Apart from the C hubs) and the fact ti comes with all the essentials makes it attractively priced. The other thing is that the DCJ's are also very reliable. Most guys at our club run the Tamiya ones if they can get them to fit their cars. As to the arms just use some thinner shims instead of the 0.5mm shim to ensure it moves without binding. http://www.thercracer.com/2015/02/42...nd-review.htmlThe black o-ring will be more resistant to leaks instead of the red one. I also use loads of Green slime, or you can use Tamiya AW grease on the O-Rings and the shims.
04-27-2015, 01:24 AM
#1496
And don't overfill it.
I think a lot of people getting leakage is as a result of it being too full.
You also typically need to re torque the screws as the gasket gets soaked and softer. After a run or two.
I think a lot of people getting leakage is as a result of it being too full.
You also typically need to re torque the screws as the gasket gets soaked and softer. After a run or two.
04-27-2015, 04:18 AM
#1497
Tamiya Blue always stands out The TRF419 really has struck a chord with people at out club, its quick, strong (Apart from the C hubs) and the fact ti comes with all the essentials makes it attractively priced. The other thing is that the DCJ's are also very reliable. Most guys at our club run the Tamiya ones if they can get them to fit their cars. As to the arms just use some thinner shims instead of the 0.5mm shim to ensure it moves without binding. http://www.thercracer.com/2015/02/42...nd-review.html
http://www.thercracer.com/2015/01/51...build-and.html
The black o-ring will be more resistant to leaks instead of the red one. I also use loads of Green slime, or you can use Tamiya AW grease on the O-Rings and the shims.
The TRF419 really has struck a chord with people at out club, its quick, strong (Apart from the C hubs) and the fact ti comes with all the essentials makes it attractively priced. The other thing is that the DCJ's are also very reliable. Most guys at our club run the Tamiya ones if they can get them to fit their cars. As to the arms just use some thinner shims instead of the 0.5mm shim to ensure it moves without binding. http://www.thercracer.com/2015/02/42...nd-review.htmlhttp://www.thercracer.com/2015/01/51...build-and.html
The black o-ring will be more resistant to leaks instead of the red one. I also use loads of Green slime, or you can use Tamiya AW grease on the O-Rings and the shims.
04-27-2015, 04:57 AM
#1498
Tech Master
To be honest I had only a slight leak on the red o-rings so it didn't bother me, but I went over to the black one and haven't noticed any since. I have also changed the shim to a wider (Still 0.3mm) one so that might help.BTW Ed, do you use the bushings or bearings?
Last edited by Qatmix; 04-27-2015 at 06:35 AM.
04-27-2015, 08:49 AM
#1499
3mm shims
Every car (well, every set of arms) seems to be ever so slightly different. So you need to play with the 3mm shims to get it right. I think I've got between 0.2-0.3 on mine generally. Pretty sure 0.25 all round actually. The stock 0.5mm are no chance and the 0.3mm options are still too tight on a new car.
I also ran 0.1 on top of the tube spacer in the chubs originally, but since I've replaced them they don't seem to need it.
If really picky, you can fit 0.05mm under the shock Pistons too. They are much better than the old ones in terms of slop though. I haven't bothered.
4mm shims
For spacing the spur. Getting in slop free and centred. Depends on your brand.
5mm shims
Driveshafts. Common is 0.1mm outside per manual and 0.3mm inside.
An extra 0.05mm on the steering posts - I've placed them on the bottom.
10mm shims
0.4mm on the cups to tighten up the spool and make sure it sits to the right to help stop the belt rubbing on the servo mount screws.
5.5mm Spacer Set
you need these to tune the car. Arms (wheelbase) and camber link heights.
Think that's it! (Other than per manual)
Every car (well, every set of arms) seems to be ever so slightly different. So you need to play with the 3mm shims to get it right. I think I've got between 0.2-0.3 on mine generally. Pretty sure 0.25 all round actually. The stock 0.5mm are no chance and the 0.3mm options are still too tight on a new car.
I also ran 0.1 on top of the tube spacer in the chubs originally, but since I've replaced them they don't seem to need it.
If really picky, you can fit 0.05mm under the shock Pistons too. They are much better than the old ones in terms of slop though. I haven't bothered.
4mm shims
For spacing the spur. Getting in slop free and centred. Depends on your brand.
5mm shims
Driveshafts. Common is 0.1mm outside per manual and 0.3mm inside.
An extra 0.05mm on the steering posts - I've placed them on the bottom.
10mm shims
0.4mm on the cups to tighten up the spool and make sure it sits to the right to help stop the belt rubbing on the servo mount screws.
5.5mm Spacer Set
you need these to tune the car. Arms (wheelbase) and camber link heights.
Think that's it! (Other than per manual)
I rate this tip Aplus
The car was killer, driver, not killin it but not terrible either.
Fun, looong day.
Also had seepage out one side of diff but not too bad.
Note:
4 Xrays in my pit mates spaces and not a drop of diff oil leakin.
They scratched their heads and said they never thought about it, just built them. No Wizardry involved.
04-27-2015, 12:57 PM
#1500
Tech Master
You are right, the diff should just be fire and forget. The two diffs I have done recently are both leak free, but they are ones that I purchased separately in the packet and are not the one that came in the kit.
So maybe the other changes I made (bushings, black O-Ring and TDX shim) are not the reason why it doesn't leak. Maybe the original kit ones had an issue with the batch?
Pulling at straws, it does seem weird that after the last lot of diffs in the 418 were leak free that these ones can leak from the out-drive after some time.
At the moment my diff is bone dry but the original one seemed to be leak free for a few weeks, and then it was just like a sweat of oil, nothing drastic.
So maybe the other changes I made (bushings, black O-Ring and TDX shim) are not the reason why it doesn't leak. Maybe the original kit ones had an issue with the batch?
Pulling at straws, it does seem weird that after the last lot of diffs in the 418 were leak free that these ones can leak from the out-drive after some time.
At the moment my diff is bone dry but the original one seemed to be leak free for a few weeks, and then it was just like a sweat of oil, nothing drastic.