Motor/ESC constantly over heating
04-22-2014, 10:54 PM
#16
I just can't believe your going to try returning a car you've obviously abused, modified heavily from stock. Burned several motors and ESC's!!! I don't think there's anything wrong with the car personally - you are just trying to do things it just wasn't designed to do. As stated above speed runs need a lot of space to give the motor time to wind up. Running up and down the street will just keep increasing heat due to the constant request for acceleration.
04-23-2014, 11:29 AM
#17
I just can't believe your going to try returning a car you've obviously abused, modified heavily from stock. Burned several motors and ESC's!!! I don't think there's anything wrong with the car personally - you are just trying to do things it just wasn't designed to do. As stated above speed runs need a lot of space to give the motor time to wind up. Running up and down the street will just keep increasing heat due to the constant request for acceleration.
04-23-2014, 12:28 PM
#19
Anyhow, I never said I changed tires, and changing ESC and motor did not modify the RC in any harmful way, nothing was cut or rearranged on it. I tried my old ESC and motor just to see if the issues would go away, while i was waiting on a replacement ESC.
04-24-2014, 04:24 AM
#20
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
When you put in the 6100kv motor you should have geared down to about 11t on the pinion probably even less as the kit motor was a 4 pole.
Sorry, I thought I read in the post somewhere about changing the tires.
I would seriously examine the entire drive train for drag. With the pinion off the drive wheels should spin fairly free. The front wheels should spin very freely. If they do then check your pinion mesh, there should be a small (barely noticeable) amount of play between the pinion and the spur. Rotate the spur and check it in several spots. If you still have a overheating problem after making sure all of that is correct, then it is how you are driving the truck. If you try a speed run it should be a single pass or maybe a down and back. If you do more than that then try changing back to the original spur, pinion and motor combo. It was 15t pinion and 76t spur. Then run it just as you have been to see if the electrics get hot. It won't hit 60 that way but it is the setup the vehicle was designed around. The setup you have been trying is just not realistic for running more than a minute without overheating. I have been doing this for 25 years and I have seen many people get hung up on the top speed thing and burn up a lot of electronics. The magazines and manufacturers promote it and people buy into it without realizing the dynamics of the system.
Sorry, I thought I read in the post somewhere about changing the tires.
I would seriously examine the entire drive train for drag. With the pinion off the drive wheels should spin fairly free. The front wheels should spin very freely. If they do then check your pinion mesh, there should be a small (barely noticeable) amount of play between the pinion and the spur. Rotate the spur and check it in several spots. If you still have a overheating problem after making sure all of that is correct, then it is how you are driving the truck. If you try a speed run it should be a single pass or maybe a down and back. If you do more than that then try changing back to the original spur, pinion and motor combo. It was 15t pinion and 76t spur. Then run it just as you have been to see if the electrics get hot. It won't hit 60 that way but it is the setup the vehicle was designed around. The setup you have been trying is just not realistic for running more than a minute without overheating. I have been doing this for 25 years and I have seen many people get hung up on the top speed thing and burn up a lot of electronics. The magazines and manufacturers promote it and people buy into it without realizing the dynamics of the system.
04-24-2014, 08:15 AM
#21
Here is what I've gathered reading this thread
- User purchased an ARRMA VORTEKS from Tower Hobbies (possibly the BLX model).
Based on Tower's description, the kit comes with a 6-cell NIHM battery. (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=LXDKGSBB&P=ML)
- User runs the stock speed control & motor (3600kv) which should be able to handle speeds of 60+ mph if running a 3s lipo based on the info I found on this page. (http://www.arrma-rc.com/radio-contro...story-board#41)
- Stock gearing for the Brushless model of this kit appears to be 57 tooth spur & 15 tooth pinion according to the manual found here (http://www.arrma-rc.com/support/downloads)
Manual does advise the following concerning gearing:
Upgraded motors/ESCs and non-standard wheels may require different gear ratios. Try to find the best balance between speed/
acceleration and handling/performance. For help selecting the correct gear ratio for your upgrades visit the GO FOR IT forums at
GOFORIT-RC.com.
- User changes gearing to 54 spur & 20 tooth pinion (max gearing shown in the user manual). Effectively user goes from 57/15=3.8 to a 54/20=2.7 ratio (not including gearbox reduction).
- User installs (unknown battery) and runs the car "up and down the street). Result is motor gets too hot and has issues with 2 ARRMA speeds controls that need to be replaced under warranty (one melted down).
- User installs an aftermarket battery, speed control, & motor from ANOTHER car and has issues with aftermarket motor (possibly overheated stator).
- In the following video created by Hobbico they confirm that a 54 spur/20 pinion with a 3s lipo (2550 mah) will go over 60mph. With a 2s lipo around 50mph. Out of the box (with stock gear/Nihm battery?) a little over 30mph. Note on the high speed runs that they are using a lot of distance on a closed road (not exactly running "up and down" a street).
http://youtu.be/_C-Ept1N-U4
--------
The fact that the user had multiple stock speed controls fail (one melted) and the stock motor overheat as well as aftermarket electronic issues leads me to believe one of more of the following...
- There was a mechanical issue with the gearbox or mechanical issue creating excessive drag (causing the overheating)
- Gear mesh is way too tight causing issues with the motor (which could cause overheating)
** Motor over-geared for environment the vehicle was being used
The reason many of us suspect over-gearing is it takes a lot of distance for high speed runs (as is seen in the video). If you didn't have enough space, you were constantly making the motor/speed control work very hard to get your car up to speed. Not only will this heat up the motor, but it can also over heat the speed control. Without knowing the exact environment you ran your vehicle in (size/length of street), it is hard to know if it is possible to safely reach 60+mph there.
- User purchased an ARRMA VORTEKS from Tower Hobbies (possibly the BLX model).
Based on Tower's description, the kit comes with a 6-cell NIHM battery. (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=LXDKGSBB&P=ML)
- User runs the stock speed control & motor (3600kv) which should be able to handle speeds of 60+ mph if running a 3s lipo based on the info I found on this page. (http://www.arrma-rc.com/radio-contro...story-board#41)
- Stock gearing for the Brushless model of this kit appears to be 57 tooth spur & 15 tooth pinion according to the manual found here (http://www.arrma-rc.com/support/downloads)
Manual does advise the following concerning gearing:
Upgraded motors/ESCs and non-standard wheels may require different gear ratios. Try to find the best balance between speed/
acceleration and handling/performance. For help selecting the correct gear ratio for your upgrades visit the GO FOR IT forums at
GOFORIT-RC.com.
- User changes gearing to 54 spur & 20 tooth pinion (max gearing shown in the user manual). Effectively user goes from 57/15=3.8 to a 54/20=2.7 ratio (not including gearbox reduction).
- User installs (unknown battery) and runs the car "up and down the street). Result is motor gets too hot and has issues with 2 ARRMA speeds controls that need to be replaced under warranty (one melted down).
- User installs an aftermarket battery, speed control, & motor from ANOTHER car and has issues with aftermarket motor (possibly overheated stator).
- In the following video created by Hobbico they confirm that a 54 spur/20 pinion with a 3s lipo (2550 mah) will go over 60mph. With a 2s lipo around 50mph. Out of the box (with stock gear/Nihm battery?) a little over 30mph. Note on the high speed runs that they are using a lot of distance on a closed road (not exactly running "up and down" a street).
http://youtu.be/_C-Ept1N-U4
--------
The fact that the user had multiple stock speed controls fail (one melted) and the stock motor overheat as well as aftermarket electronic issues leads me to believe one of more of the following...
- There was a mechanical issue with the gearbox or mechanical issue creating excessive drag (causing the overheating)
- Gear mesh is way too tight causing issues with the motor (which could cause overheating)
** Motor over-geared for environment the vehicle was being used
The reason many of us suspect over-gearing is it takes a lot of distance for high speed runs (as is seen in the video). If you didn't have enough space, you were constantly making the motor/speed control work very hard to get your car up to speed. Not only will this heat up the motor, but it can also over heat the speed control. Without knowing the exact environment you ran your vehicle in (size/length of street), it is hard to know if it is possible to safely reach 60+mph there.
Thanks Indy_RC Racer!
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