3LikesTeam Associated TC6.2 Touring Car
03-24-2014, 05:25 PM
#797
Pretty standard process.
1) fill with fluid.
2) push piston near the top of the shock body and wait about 10 seconds for the air bubbles to rise to just under the piston.
3a) Slowly pull the piston downward while rotating the shaft.
3b) Fill the remaining space with oil.
4) Set aside to allow bubbles to rise.
5) push the piston up half way and place the bladder on top of the shock body.
6) While pushing the piston up to about 75% of the total stroke (oil will spill out of course), use the eraser end of a pencil in the center of the bladder to press it flush to the top of the shock body while holding the piston at 75%.
Note: this will create a bit of vacuum under the bladder, keeping it somewhat sealed.
7) Place the top cap on and carefully tighten, trying not to rock the eyelet.
Hopefully you are not mistaking the noise you hear as being bubbles rather than the machine marks inside the shock bore. (something AE needs to address) This makes them appear "Cheap" IMO.
1) fill with fluid.
2) push piston near the top of the shock body and wait about 10 seconds for the air bubbles to rise to just under the piston.
3a) Slowly pull the piston downward while rotating the shaft.
3b) Fill the remaining space with oil.
4) Set aside to allow bubbles to rise.
5) push the piston up half way and place the bladder on top of the shock body.
6) While pushing the piston up to about 75% of the total stroke (oil will spill out of course), use the eraser end of a pencil in the center of the bladder to press it flush to the top of the shock body while holding the piston at 75%.
Note: this will create a bit of vacuum under the bladder, keeping it somewhat sealed.
7) Place the top cap on and carefully tighten, trying not to rock the eyelet.
Hopefully you are not mistaking the noise you hear as being bubbles rather than the machine marks inside the shock bore. (something AE needs to address) This makes them appear "Cheap" IMO.
03-24-2014, 06:48 PM
#799
What time frame are we talking about? 1 race day, 1 month or perhaps minutes after building? I have noticed air in the oil when pulling out the bladders only to find that the air bubbles were created while pulling off the bladders.
03-24-2014, 07:16 PM
#800
Well I used the rsd bladders and o rings. I cycled them a few times and left them for two nights at the track. To.come in on friday to find that they sounded like they had air in them. So I pulled them apart and saw air in them through the bladder. I have sanded the rings to make them fit snugger that didnt work. I have tried brand new o rings and bladders. This worked one time onlythen I change oil and it no longer worked.
03-24-2014, 08:14 PM
#801
Agreed.
Droop setting seems to be a personal preferance issue.
I was recently shown a way to measure droop by AE team driver and fellow canadian Pete Tozer.
simple, accurate and fast.
Remove tires
ensure chassis is flat on setup board
Measure with digital calipers to top of axle..
Droop distance
4mm 24.5
5mm 25.5
6mm 26.5
7mm 27.5
This method removes the subjectivity of traditional under the arm methods.
This method is also transferable to every class of rc race cars
DJC
Droop setting seems to be a personal preferance issue.
I was recently shown a way to measure droop by AE team driver and fellow canadian Pete Tozer.
simple, accurate and fast.
Remove tires
ensure chassis is flat on setup board
Measure with digital calipers to top of axle..
Droop distance
4mm 24.5
5mm 25.5
6mm 26.5
7mm 27.5
This method removes the subjectivity of traditional under the arm methods.
This method is also transferable to every class of rc race cars
DJC
http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/me...e#.UzD0QPldXNk
03-25-2014, 07:49 AM
#802
i just set my ride height and set the car on the table , hold the tires down and pull up on the chassis to see how much uptravel i have before the screws hit. ive always had better luck setting it by feel and then measuring to be sure both sides are the same after .
03-25-2014, 02:47 PM
#803
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
I have been rebuilding my 6.2 and recieived my R-Factor RC (yodog) carbon upgrade kit.
I have been using the rsd bumper already and the support bracket was a perfect fit.
also the center line lipo support has taken 95% of the battery movement out
ed
I have been using the rsd bumper already and the support bracket was a perfect fit.
also the center line lipo support has taken 95% of the battery movement out
ed
Last edited by Edwin Pibal; 03-25-2014 at 06:44 PM.
03-25-2014, 10:55 PM
#806
Tech Adept
Hi there can anyone help with a setup with the tc6.2, bumpy, low to med track, med size high speed corners and flowing
Can anyone help please
________________
TC6.2 MUCHMORE FLETA PRO MUCHMORE FLETA ZX 4.5 TURN
HITEC RIDE MUCHMORE SPEKTRUM
Can anyone help please
________________
TC6.2 MUCHMORE FLETA PRO MUCHMORE FLETA ZX 4.5 TURN
HITEC RIDE MUCHMORE SPEKTRUM
03-26-2014, 01:40 PM
#807
Tech Regular
I have an original TC6.1 (not the WC) and I'm thinking about getting a TC6.2 to run in a second class. Does anyone know if the body post positions are the same between these two cars? How about the body post positions for the TC6.1WC? I am also considering a TC6.1WC because they are cheap now.
The goal is to reuse some existing bodies without cutting a new set of mounting holes.
The goal is to reuse some existing bodies without cutting a new set of mounting holes.
03-26-2014, 01:53 PM
#808
I have an original TC6.1 (not the WC) and I'm thinking about getting a TC6.2 to run in a second class. Does anyone know if the body post positions are the same between these two cars? How about the body post positions for the TC6.1WC? I am also considering a TC6.1WC because they are cheap now.
The goal is to reuse some existing bodies without cutting a new set of mounting holes.
The goal is to reuse some existing bodies without cutting a new set of mounting holes.
03-26-2014, 02:04 PM
#809
I have an original TC6.1 (not the WC) and I'm thinking about getting a TC6.2 to run in a second class. Does anyone know if the body post positions are the same between these two cars? How about the body post positions for the TC6.1WC? I am also considering a TC6.1WC because they are cheap now.
The goal is to reuse some existing bodies without cutting a new set of mounting holes.
The goal is to reuse some existing bodies without cutting a new set of mounting holes.
The body post locations from the TC6.2 to previous models are different however the TC6.1 and TC6.1WC are the same. The TC6.2 is such a different chassis, I don't understand why not name it the TC7.
03-26-2014, 02:16 PM
#810
Tech Regular
I see you have both the 6.1WC and the 6.2. Is the 6.2 worth the $120 price difference for stock 17.5 touring?