rc car guy

the whole caster, or c hubs?

also has anyone came across the problem of cracking the rod ends at the injection molding site, I don't do it very often but ill occasionally hit the wall fairly hard and crack one of them

John Tag

iTrader: (42)

Ran the new car today.. WOW what a great day 1 with new car. Was able to be Q-3 on grid for A main after tapping out a few times during heats and no less making each round with set up changes(learning car). For A Main I tweaked car from last round of heats (lowered rear inner link .5mm) to free car up a little more in and center of corner(Didn't want to make huge change for main). From hot laps I knew it was game on. Car picked up .2 per lap and I won first night out. My hot lap in main was .26 faster than next hot lap no less. Car drove super smooth on power. Looking forward to a few set up tweaks and next week already.

daveb

iTrader: (4)

Can't wait to get my kit this week! Did you happen to do any of the 6.1 mods in building your car?

rc car guy

6.1 mods?

John Tag

iTrader: (42)

Only mods I had done were- Glue inserts as per directions in rear hubs and castor blocks. I also installed set screws on bottom of caster blocks. For me front end was tight on a-arms on hinge pin mounts so I lightly sanded with 600 grit sand paper on the a-arms outside where they mount to free them up slightly..

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

TJames987

iTrader: (11)

kit on it's way . Are there any build tips for this car that's not covered in the manual?

Can't wait to test this bad boy in mod touring.

daveb

iTrader: (4)

The set screw was one that I did and it cleaned up the slop on my 6.1. Did you happen to drill the shock cap too? Any other build tips would be great too.

John Tag

iTrader: (42)

Only thing I done on shocks was easy..Filled to top bled shock to ensure shock body was full (slowly pushed piston up and down 2-3 times then topped of fluid)..Let them rest 10 minutes to let any hidden air bubbles out..Left shock at full length and lightly placed shock bladder on..Put shock cap on and screwed down and all 4 shocks built exact and smooth. No, I did not put vent hole in caps as shocks built to my personal liking as stock.


17.5 Blinky-96X51

Body LW LTC

Ride height- F-5mm R 5.25mm
Droop-F 1-1/2 over RH R 2mm over RH
Springs-F Yok Pink R-Yok Blues
Pistons RDS 1-1-1.5
Oil F-45-R35
Rebound 100%
Gear diff front 2.5 Mil
Gear diff rear 27.5 wt
Sway bars-F-red R-Blue
4* Castor
Camber links-Med f&R
Inside Camber link spacer F-2mm R-1/2 mm
Outside link spacers-Stock setting
F Arms - #2 outside block in front #1 in rear ( 1/2* front sweep)
Rear Arms- #2 outside in front and #1 out back (2.5* rear toe)
Diffs Med/low
Stock wheel base
Stock 1/2mm roll center shims
F Toe-1*
Camber F-1.75* R-2.5*
Reflex Front axles with Yok 5mm hexes in front
shocks Top #2 from outside F&R
Shocks bottom F-Middle R-Outside
Battery Std location
Lead 10 grams behind battery,Motor and center car 30 G total

rc car guy

Is that your personal set up? Also is there no mail on new years day?

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

This setup on a TC6 would mean a lot of understeer. Does the 6.2 have so much more steering?

John Tag

iTrader: (42)

This set up was my personal set up with some copy's from stock set up, Keven's and Cuffs idea's also. This was a med bite carpet track ..I felt it had lot's of steering. I also still had 20% duel rate left in radio I didn't use as I don't like to crank duel rate in radio right away with new car.

rc car guy

How big/tight is the track i also race on a medium bite track but its rsther small 36x60

nsgland

iTrader: (19)

This is the basic layout of the track. A couple changes have been made since this video was taken.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0e_X7h85dAY

imprsme

iTrader: (91)

here is the latest layout where John is running

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7i6PF0F6uQ