Xray X1 - Formula One Car
#2566
#2567
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
It's tricky bleeding the shocks per the manual, it takes some practice and I don't rebuild them enough to get it right every time.And if you do it wrong, you introduce air back into the shock.
If I still have some rebound, I'll turn the shock upside down, unscrew the bottom cap, slide the cap up and push the shock shaft slightly to the side. Excess oil will come out past the O rings, but no air will go back in. Not my idea, I found it in a video while trying to figure it out, just like you.
If I still have some rebound, I'll turn the shock upside down, unscrew the bottom cap, slide the cap up and push the shock shaft slightly to the side. Excess oil will come out past the O rings, but no air will go back in. Not my idea, I found it in a video while trying to figure it out, just like you.
#2568
Tech Rookie
Volante tires setup
Hi guys.. I have used Volante Ets tire compound, medium in front and super soft in rear. . No good result because i lost the rear during long corners with xray x1 car....
Someone have a good basic set up for this tires with 25/30 ° Celsius on asphalt? I would like to understand these tires... On the same track with ride gr the car was quite good...
Thanks in adavance!
Someone have a good basic set up for this tires with 25/30 ° Celsius on asphalt? I would like to understand these tires... On the same track with ride gr the car was quite good...
Thanks in adavance!
#2569
Tech Initiate
It's tricky bleeding the shocks per the manual, it takes some practice and I don't rebuild them enough to get it right every time.And if you do it wrong, you introduce air back into the shock.
If I still have some rebound, I'll turn the shock upside down, unscrew the bottom cap, slide the cap up and push the shock shaft slightly to the side. Excess oil will come out past the O rings, but no air will go back in. Not my idea, I found it in a video while trying to figure it out, just like you.
If I still have some rebound, I'll turn the shock upside down, unscrew the bottom cap, slide the cap up and push the shock shaft slightly to the side. Excess oil will come out past the O rings, but no air will go back in. Not my idea, I found it in a video while trying to figure it out, just like you.
I learned from this Alexander Hagberg video....
--> So, zero rebound is preferred then? I saw that video, that's where I first heard it, but that's a TC race on carpet, so wasn't sure it could be translated to F1 center shock + on asphalt.
I will try it, but am still kind of confused with the zero rebound thing. Isn't it just working the spring then?
--> thanks, i'll put in the side shock like it is then.
#2570
--> Will try this method, thanks!
--> So, zero rebound is preferred then? I saw that video, that's where I first heard it, but that's a TC race on carpet, so wasn't sure it could be translated to F1 center shock + on asphalt.
I will try it, but am still kind of confused with the zero rebound thing. Isn't it just working the spring then?
.
--> So, zero rebound is preferred then? I saw that video, that's where I first heard it, but that's a TC race on carpet, so wasn't sure it could be translated to F1 center shock + on asphalt.
I will try it, but am still kind of confused with the zero rebound thing. Isn't it just working the spring then?
.
#2571
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
--> Will try this method, thanks!
--> So, zero rebound is preferred then? I saw that video, that's where I first heard it, but that's a TC race on carpet, so wasn't sure it could be translated to F1 center shock + on asphalt.
I will try it, but am still kind of confused with the zero rebound thing. Isn't it just working the spring then?
.
--> So, zero rebound is preferred then? I saw that video, that's where I first heard it, but that's a TC race on carpet, so wasn't sure it could be translated to F1 center shock + on asphalt.
I will try it, but am still kind of confused with the zero rebound thing. Isn't it just working the spring then?
.
X Ray shock build
I always build for zero rebound, it's easy to be consistent that way, and if you look at the pros setup sheets, it's normally at zero as well.
X1 setup sheets
#2572
Tech Initiate
Here's another shock building video - it's for the 2018 ULP shocks, but I tried it yesterday for my 2017 SLP shocks on my T4 ( same as X1 shocks ) and it worked perfectly. The trick is to push the membrane down about 2-3 mm then pull the shock shaft down before putting on the cap.
X Ray shock build
I always build for zero rebound, it's easy to be consistent that way, and if you look at the pros setup sheets, it's normally at zero as well.
X1 setup sheets
X Ray shock build
I always build for zero rebound, it's easy to be consistent that way, and if you look at the pros setup sheets, it's normally at zero as well.
X1 setup sheets
Just need to do some rewiring + fiddle with the esc and the transmitter and then I'm finally ready for the track.
Checking some measurements in the meantime. Found the camber to be off left VS right. Luckily found a post by searching this thread to unscrew the top plate and wiggle it a bit until it's the same left/right. Sloppy business.
Last edited by Stinj; 05-18-2018 at 03:28 AM. Reason: was asking where to measure ride height but found a post on it
#2574
Aluminum flex unless you are running on really low traction non-CRC carpet.
#2576
for the record...i did run a solid aluminum on a super low traction grey carpet. most of my issue was diff and punch setup. aside from that i just ran the car close to the same. felt generally solid. I also didnt make the changes necessary to make it easier to drive that i mentioned so....
aluminum, if that's already what you have if you're running on low traction (aside from asphalt, which i cant speak on) is fine
aluminum, if that's already what you have if you're running on low traction (aside from asphalt, which i cant speak on) is fine
#2578
Yeag, ball diff for asphalt. Tried gear diff on asphalt before and did not like it.
#2580
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Billy, There could be several reasons. It can be that the plastic balls and screws are too tight because the holes in the carbon are too small for the holders. That could put them in a bind. Mine do move freely. You can heat the balls and cups with a blow drier and move them up and down until they are free. Also the balls in different locations are slightly different shapes. Some have a collar on both ends and some only on one side. You need to make sure you have them in the right location and orientation. BTW, glad you got one. I have really been enjoying it. I got mine dialed in really good. If you come to Newman's I can help you out. If you come there, you have to have a spool to turn fast laps. Otherwise you will be diffing out in every corner. Cristian, Marcus and myself had some insane close battles. It is pretty fun finishing so close because they are all so evenly matched..