Xray X1 - Formula One Car
#1711
ets front wing
can anyone tell me how to fit the ets approved front wing
#1712
It is a direct fit. remove the front wing (black plastic) and fit the new one. Yo might need to make new bodypost holes on the body if the body post is not fitted in the same position.
Best regards
Javier
Best regards
Javier
#1714
I got mines but haven't raced with it yet. I don't think its a good choice for carpet since it sits very low/flat and the side end droops downward. I'll probably save it for asphalt to test.
#1715
Tech Initiate
Has someone a comparison between the side springs(X1 2015) and the side damper tubes(X1 2016)? Does it make sense to convert the "old" car?
#1716
OK, I've lost stump the dummy.
Trying to set up an F1 for the first time and have a terminal push. I started with Jan's last set Snowbirds set up. I run on a technical track on black CRC carpet. To stop traction rolls, I've thickly glued the front tires and the rear outside walls; raised the side tubes 4mm, and went to harder front springs. I've tried 1 -1.5 camber; 6 - 9 camber; raised the side links 1mm; and tried every side spring I own. I've also worked with the center shock angles and diff tension from fully locked to so loose it slipped on any throttle. As the traction came up, the car pushed worse, and times slowed.
What am I missing?
Trying to set up an F1 for the first time and have a terminal push. I started with Jan's last set Snowbirds set up. I run on a technical track on black CRC carpet. To stop traction rolls, I've thickly glued the front tires and the rear outside walls; raised the side tubes 4mm, and went to harder front springs. I've tried 1 -1.5 camber; 6 - 9 camber; raised the side links 1mm; and tried every side spring I own. I've also worked with the center shock angles and diff tension from fully locked to so loose it slipped on any throttle. As the traction came up, the car pushed worse, and times slowed.
What am I missing?
#1717
Are you running the wide Exotek wheels?
#1719
Tech Addict
iTrader: (19)
OK, I've lost stump the dummy.
Trying to set up an F1 for the first time and have a terminal push. I started with Jan's last set Snowbirds set up. I run on a technical track on black CRC carpet. To stop traction rolls, I've thickly glued the front tires and the rear outside walls; raised the side tubes 4mm, and went to harder front springs. I've tried 1 -1.5 camber; 6 - 9 camber; raised the side links 1mm; and tried every side spring I own. I've also worked with the center shock angles and diff tension from fully locked to so loose it slipped on any throttle. As the traction came up, the car pushed worse, and times slowed.
What am I missing?
Trying to set up an F1 for the first time and have a terminal push. I started with Jan's last set Snowbirds set up. I run on a technical track on black CRC carpet. To stop traction rolls, I've thickly glued the front tires and the rear outside walls; raised the side tubes 4mm, and went to harder front springs. I've tried 1 -1.5 camber; 6 - 9 camber; raised the side links 1mm; and tried every side spring I own. I've also worked with the center shock angles and diff tension from fully locked to so loose it slipped on any throttle. As the traction came up, the car pushed worse, and times slowed.
What am I missing?
#1720
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
OK, I've lost stump the dummy.
Trying to set up an F1 for the first time and have a terminal push. I started with Jan's last set Snowbirds set up. I run on a technical track on black CRC carpet. To stop traction rolls, I've thickly glued the front tires and the rear outside walls; raised the side tubes 4mm, and went to harder front springs. I've tried 1 -1.5 camber; 6 - 9 camber; raised the side links 1mm; and tried every side spring I own. I've also worked with the center shock angles and diff tension from fully locked to so loose it slipped on any throttle. As the traction came up, the car pushed worse, and times slowed.
What am I missing?
Trying to set up an F1 for the first time and have a terminal push. I started with Jan's last set Snowbirds set up. I run on a technical track on black CRC carpet. To stop traction rolls, I've thickly glued the front tires and the rear outside walls; raised the side tubes 4mm, and went to harder front springs. I've tried 1 -1.5 camber; 6 - 9 camber; raised the side links 1mm; and tried every side spring I own. I've also worked with the center shock angles and diff tension from fully locked to so loose it slipped on any throttle. As the traction came up, the car pushed worse, and times slowed.
What am I missing?
What tires are you running?
What is your tire prep routine?
I run regularly at 5280 Raceway (Black carpet) and ran at this year's IIC (Black Carpet) and my setup is not that far away from the kit setup with a good amount of steering and no-sign of trying to traction roll.
Tire Prep - is huge in F1. The car can go from traction rolling to being extremely pushy just by what you do to the front tires. I normally start with glueing only the bead of the front tires (where the tread meets the sidewall) and saucing 1/2. Between runs I will clean the rear tires and not touch the fronts. Before it's time to run, I apply sauce to the rears and 1/2 the front (right over the dirty tire) and then wipe only that section off. If the car immediately rolls, then I apply more glue to the fronts. If it is slightly tippy - then less sauce, not enough steering - then more sauce.
You can definitely go to far with the glue and then end up struggling to get steering back into the car.
BTW .. Jan's Snowbird's setup is a little soft IMO on anything other than a very high grip open layout.
#1721
Is it an on-power or off-power push?
What tires are you running?
What is your tire prep routine?
I run regularly at 5280 Raceway (Black carpet) and ran at this year's IIC (Black Carpet) and my setup is not that far away from the kit setup with a good amount of steering and no-sign of trying to traction roll.
Tire Prep - is huge in F1. The car can go from traction rolling to being extremely pushy just by what you do to the front tires. I normally start with glueing only the bead of the front tires (where the tread meets the sidewall) and saucing 1/2. Between runs I will clean the rear tires and not touch the fronts. Before it's time to run, I apply sauce to the rears and 1/2 the front (right over the dirty tire) and then wipe only that section off. If the car immediately rolls, then I apply more glue to the fronts. If it is slightly tippy - then less sauce, not enough steering - then more sauce.
You can definitely go to far with the glue and then end up struggling to get steering back into the car.
BTW .. Jan's Snowbird's setup is a little soft IMO on anything other than a very high grip open layout.
What tires are you running?
What is your tire prep routine?
I run regularly at 5280 Raceway (Black carpet) and ran at this year's IIC (Black Carpet) and my setup is not that far away from the kit setup with a good amount of steering and no-sign of trying to traction roll.
Tire Prep - is huge in F1. The car can go from traction rolling to being extremely pushy just by what you do to the front tires. I normally start with glueing only the bead of the front tires (where the tread meets the sidewall) and saucing 1/2. Between runs I will clean the rear tires and not touch the fronts. Before it's time to run, I apply sauce to the rears and 1/2 the front (right over the dirty tire) and then wipe only that section off. If the car immediately rolls, then I apply more glue to the fronts. If it is slightly tippy - then less sauce, not enough steering - then more sauce.
You can definitely go to far with the glue and then end up struggling to get steering back into the car.
BTW .. Jan's Snowbird's setup is a little soft IMO on anything other than a very high grip open layout.
As for the glue job. We built up the sides on a previous session where it traction rolled at less than half throttle and would knife edge on any power on corner. It is thicker than we need in WGT-R but about what many drivers had at last year's birds. One thing here is when we went from traction rolling to pushing, it was without adding any glue to the side walls. Not saying that it isn't the glue job, just that something else has to be going on too.
There are actually two problems at this point but I think I understand one of them. The car will push under brakes up to a point when it just hooks into the corner. I think adding some front droop will aid with the turn in. That will leave the wicked power on push coming out the corner. That is why I removed the droop out of the rear and angled the center shock.
The black carpet is last years blend, (I understand the IIC is a newer weave), laid over literally last year's Snowbirds subfloor. The push seemed to get worse late in the day when the traction came up. I'm kind of working on a theory that I need to loose rear traction rather than look for more front traction.
One other minor thing. I thought minimum height was 4mm.
I do appreciate your help
#1722
Tech Elite
iTrader: (50)
The tires I'm running are the Schumacher premounts from A-main which I believe are Pits 571 Fronts and 572 Rears.
As for the glue job. We built up the sides on a previous session where it traction rolled at less than half throttle and would knife edge on any power on corner. It is thicker than we need in WGT-R but about what many drivers had at last year's birds. One thing here is when we went from traction rolling to pushing, it was without adding any glue to the side walls. Not saying that it isn't the glue job, just that something else has to be going on too.
There are actually two problems at this point but I think I understand one of them. The car will push under brakes up to a point when it just hooks into the corner. I think adding some front droop will aid with the turn in. That will leave the wicked power on push coming out the corner. That is why I removed the droop out of the rear and angled the center shock.
The black carpet is last years blend, (I understand the IIC is a newer weave), laid over literally last year's Snowbirds subfloor. The push seemed to get worse late in the day when the traction came up. I'm kind of working on a theory that I need to loose rear traction rather than look for more front traction.
One other minor thing. I thought minimum height was 4mm.
I do appreciate your help
As for the glue job. We built up the sides on a previous session where it traction rolled at less than half throttle and would knife edge on any power on corner. It is thicker than we need in WGT-R but about what many drivers had at last year's birds. One thing here is when we went from traction rolling to pushing, it was without adding any glue to the side walls. Not saying that it isn't the glue job, just that something else has to be going on too.
There are actually two problems at this point but I think I understand one of them. The car will push under brakes up to a point when it just hooks into the corner. I think adding some front droop will aid with the turn in. That will leave the wicked power on push coming out the corner. That is why I removed the droop out of the rear and angled the center shock.
The black carpet is last years blend, (I understand the IIC is a newer weave), laid over literally last year's Snowbirds subfloor. The push seemed to get worse late in the day when the traction came up. I'm kind of working on a theory that I need to loose rear traction rather than look for more front traction.
One other minor thing. I thought minimum height was 4mm.
I do appreciate your help
#1723
I tried the diff from locked to slipping freely but it didn't solve the push. It did let the car rotate but soon as you eased on the gas out you'd go. Does let you be predictable but not so much for lap times.
It's the kit side springs.
It's the kit side springs.
#1724
Thanks to your questions, I did find one thing tonight. Apparently I abused the fronts so much the inside bead had let go. Not sure what this does to an F1 but on my TC it will sure make it squirrely. Reglue; Rebalance; Try it again.
#1725
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
As for the glue job. We built up the sides on a previous session where it traction rolled at less than half throttle and would knife edge on any power on corner. It is thicker than we need in WGT-R but about what many drivers had at last year's birds. One thing here is when we went from traction rolling to pushing, it was without adding any glue to the side walls. Not saying that it isn't the glue job, just that something else has to be going on too.
There are actually two problems at this point but I think I understand one of them. The car will push under brakes up to a point when it just hooks into the corner. I think adding some front droop will aid with the turn in. That will leave the wicked power on push coming out the corner. That is why I removed the droop out of the rear and angled the center shock.
There are actually two problems at this point but I think I understand one of them. The car will push under brakes up to a point when it just hooks into the corner. I think adding some front droop will aid with the turn in. That will leave the wicked power on push coming out the corner. That is why I removed the droop out of the rear and angled the center shock.
2. Rear droop effects turn in and if you go too far (too much) then the car will hook into the corner while off power, so it sounds like you had too much rear droop. I run about 0.5-1mm of rear droop on the black carpet.
3. Removing front droop will help with on-power steering (add a 0.5 spacer to the very top of the kingpin). Also going to a stiffer center spring (2.4) will help with on-power steering.
It is normally 4mm at 99% of tracks .. Snowbirds is the exception which was 3mm.