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New CRC F1 At IIC

Old 01-24-2019, 02:23 PM
  #706  
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Ok so with that steering stop how are people finding it for front end curb touches? Completely resolved? Tough as an x-ray?
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Old 01-24-2019, 02:36 PM
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No, not as tough as an Xray. The steering stops help more but won't make the car indestructible. The CRC is among the more fragile F1 cars on the market if you are using it on a track with hard barriers.
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Old 01-24-2019, 03:05 PM
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Very technical, hard barriers. Might rethink this.
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Old 02-07-2019, 04:00 AM
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Just woundering why a aluminum chassis was never made for the CRC f1?
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Old 02-07-2019, 04:18 AM
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I run a CRC and yes the steering knuckles are an issue without stops. I made my own a couple of years ago and since I have only broken one knuckle. Front kingpins are another issue but because of the cars adjustability it is something I deal with. There are a couple of ways to replace the knuckle with a thru kingpin but I haven't done that.
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Old 02-07-2019, 04:20 AM
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Just a note. Adding glue to the front tires sidewall up to the top of the letters greatly reduces the wall grab. That hint reduces incidents that break the knuckle and kingpin. I do the rears the same way, just to the top of the logo.
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Old 02-08-2019, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by bigtee01 View Post
Just woundering why a aluminum chassis was never made for the CRC f1?
I thought there may have been one at some time, but I have never felt like it was needed.

In any case, the car works on black carpet with the stock chassis. Period.
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Last edited by robk; 02-08-2019 at 06:04 PM.
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Old 02-13-2019, 09:37 AM
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So i just got my CRC F1 not too long ago, love the ease of working on it etc. I have a question though, i started out on this car w/ the diff, car ran great with it, my only issue was that it was diffing out in the corners. So before next race day i threw pegs in the spur to simulate running a spool. I did get rid of the diffing out issue, but the car just doesnt seem to drive as well. Has anyone figured out the key to not get this thing to diff out aside from going spool? I was thinking going from a spur that holds 3/32 to a 1/8" diff balls and maybe that would help. I'm all ears
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Old 02-13-2019, 11:57 AM
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A gear diff is an excellent compromise between a ball diff and spool if you want to invest the money into it.
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Old 02-13-2019, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by phatboislim View Post
So i just got my CRC F1 not too long ago, love the ease of working on it etc. I have a question though, i started out on this car w/ the diff, car ran great with it, my only issue was that it was diffing out in the corners. So before next race day i threw pegs in the spur to simulate running a spool. I did get rid of the diffing out issue, but the car just doesnt seem to drive as well. Has anyone figured out the key to not get this thing to diff out aside from going spool? I was thinking going from a spur that holds 3/32 to a 1/8" diff balls and maybe that would help. I'm all ears
The diff unloads because you are lifting tires, not because of the diff. The spool helps, and in fact can take advantage of this somewhat (look at pictures of 1/8 on road cars in a corner - one rear wheel is in the air). None the less, you can do a lot of things to help reduce lifting:
-glue side walls of tires
-reduce caster
-run the softest springs you can drive on the car. CRC .45 mm that comes with the car is an excellent start, but Tamiya silver front springs can be helpful in this regard. I think that Associated has a softer side spring, possibly the black spring.
-back the side springs off the pod. Set your tweak with springs just touching, then back off a 1/2 turn. You can increase this to a full turn, it's a bit of a feel thing. The car will be a bit less stable off center. Adding preload does the opposite, it makes a more stable feeling, but will increase the tendency to traction roll/lift tires.
-softer damper lube
-move the battery forward. It will kill some steering but will calm the car down.
-widen the car
-reduce camber
-raise the upper arm mount to reduce camber gain. The car comes with 2 sizes of spacer that fits on the lower bulkhead (has 2 long slots, should be like .5 and 1mm). You can use them on top of the lower bulkhead to shim up the upper arm mount.
-use a heavier battery. A saddle pack fits this car and will calm it down. I know everybody hates extra weight, but it is a desperation move if you don't like the idea.
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Old 02-14-2019, 03:55 AM
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Originally Posted by robk View Post
The diff unloads because you are lifting tires, not because of the diff. The spool helps, and in fact can take advantage of this somewhat (look at pictures of 1/8 on road cars in a corner - one rear wheel is in the air). None the less, you can do a lot of things to help reduce lifting:
-glue side walls of tires
-reduce caster
-run the softest springs you can drive on the car. CRC .45 mm that comes with the car is an excellent start, but Tamiya silver front springs can be helpful in this regard. I think that Associated has a softer side spring, possibly the black spring.
-back the side springs off the pod. Set your tweak with springs just touching, then back off a 1/2 turn. You can increase this to a full turn, it's a bit of a feel thing. The car will be a bit less stable off center. Adding preload does the opposite, it makes a more stable feeling, but will increase the tendency to traction roll/lift tires.
-softer damper lube
-move the battery forward. It will kill some steering but will calm the car down.
-widen the car
-reduce camber
-raise the upper arm mount to reduce camber gain. The car comes with 2 sizes of spacer that fits on the lower bulkhead (has 2 long slots, should be like .5 and 1mm). You can use them on top of the lower bulkhead to shim up the upper arm mount.
-use a heavier battery. A saddle pack fits this car and will calm it down. I know everybody hates extra weight, but it is a desperation move if you don't like the idea.
I will add, having the battery inline also helps (CRC car can have the battery transverse)
Soft rear side springs. CRC .45mm which came in most kits but check them to be sure.
Everything else is spot on from ROBK.
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Old 02-14-2019, 09:15 AM
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duly noted, i will one by one try those things out next time i run the car. thanks for the help!!
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Old 02-19-2019, 10:57 AM
  #718  
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Hey fellas, just finished the build on my WTF1 last weekend. Raced this last Wednesday night, and Iím already in love with this thing. Like many have said, this car just plain works on CRC black carpet. That being said, I went ahead and made a post with some build tips that I came across while constructing my own car. Let me know what you think!

https://theracerunderground.blogspot...wtf1-fc16.html


Also planning on taking this thing outdoors next month for some testing. Iíll be interested to see how close I can get it together cars. My gut instinct is it will be just fine.
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Old 02-27-2019, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by robk View Post
The diff unloads because you are lifting tires, not because of the diff. The spool helps, and in fact can take advantage of this somewhat (look at pictures of 1/8 on road cars in a corner - one rear wheel is in the air). None the less, you can do a lot of things to help reduce lifting:
-glue side walls of tires
-reduce caster
-run the softest springs you can drive on the car. CRC .45 mm that comes with the car is an excellent start, but Tamiya silver front springs can be helpful in this regard. I think that Associated has a softer side spring, possibly the black spring.
-back the side springs off the pod. Set your tweak with springs just touching, then back off a 1/2 turn. You can increase this to a full turn, it's a bit of a feel thing. The car will be a bit less stable off center. Adding preload does the opposite, it makes a more stable feeling, but will increase the tendency to traction roll/lift tires.
-softer damper lube
-move the battery forward. It will kill some steering but will calm the car down.
-widen the car
-reduce camber
-raise the upper arm mount to reduce camber gain. The car comes with 2 sizes of spacer that fits on the lower bulkhead (has 2 long slots, should be like .5 and 1mm). You can use them on top of the lower bulkhead to shim up the upper arm mount.
-use a heavier battery. A saddle pack fits this car and will calm it down. I know everybody hates extra weight, but it is a desperation move if you don't like the idea.
I just wanted to note on here for the future in case anyone else comes looking for this info, softening the side springs/side tube lube doesnt work. Another guy ran F1 last week (i ran 2 other classes) and i mentioned to him what i was told about w/ those things. I didnt remember the others, but i will try less caster possibly this weekend. That actually seems like it would work. The softer spring in my mind doesnt seem like it would work. It seems like you would want a stiffer spring as it wouldnt allow the pod to transition as much. That's the way i'm thinking of the rear pod working

But i will be trying less caster and camber. I can see caster possibly helping out. Reorientating my electronics will be one of my last ditch changes
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Old 02-27-2019, 09:55 AM
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I didn't notice any traction roll difference with thick side tube dampers either.
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