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Old 10-30-2013, 08:49 PM
  #571  
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Originally Posted by King of B Main
You can try so many things to get the car to dive in better into the corner but you will usually lose some middle turning. Try anything !

1)Softer Spring in front
3)lower your shock position in front
8)Go to 6 degree castors
Those would all reduce initial turn-in to get more mid-corner grip, wouldn't they? That's been my experience with those changes on other chassis.

-Mike
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Old 10-30-2013, 11:33 PM
  #572  
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Originally Posted by grippgoat
Those would all reduce initial turn-in to get more mid-corner grip, wouldn't they? That's been my experience with those changes on other chassis.

-Mike
They should all give you initial steering.
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Old 10-30-2013, 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by grippgoat
Those would all reduce initial turn-in to get more mid-corner grip, wouldn't they? That's been my experience with those changes on other chassis.

-Mike
+1
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Old 10-31-2013, 03:35 AM
  #574  
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6 degree castor definitely takes away initial steering.
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Old 10-31-2013, 07:49 AM
  #575  
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Originally Posted by Racing4Evo
+1

But I would never take out screws on carpet, that's counter productive.

The change you're looking for is raising the outside front and rear camber link. That will give you entry steering as well as a lighter rear diff oil.
To this I may add thicker front shock oil for example 400cst front, 350cst rear.
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Old 10-31-2013, 11:54 AM
  #576  
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Originally Posted by Skiddins
The blinky class is now 17.5 and race fee's are £8, both changed a couple of weeks ago.

Skiddins
cheers,see you there tomorrow
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Old 10-31-2013, 11:56 AM
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.
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Old 11-01-2013, 04:51 AM
  #578  
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Originally Posted by chasingthepack
cheers,see you there tomorrow
Damian,does anyone use tyre warmers?will there be any 12v power surplus, cheers again
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Old 11-01-2013, 05:50 AM
  #579  
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Originally Posted by chasingthepack
Damian,does anyone use tyre warmers?will there be any 12v power surplus, cheers again
Sometimes people use tyre warmers, but as we get a minute or so or warm up laps it usually isn't necessary.
No 12V, but there is mains.
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Old 11-01-2013, 10:51 AM
  #580  
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Default A-Plus spool outdrives

Hi,

I see that A-Plus now do some delrin spool outdrives. Im guessing these will wear less and be stronger the std plastic ones?
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Old 11-01-2013, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt W
Hi,

I see that A-Plus now do some delrin spool outdrives. Im guessing these will wear less and be stronger the std plastic ones?
Two tricks with the stock spool outdrives....

1. Cut any excess axle off past the wheel nut (threaded part). This can catch on boards and causes a lot of damage.

2. Tighten the outdrive screw just enough to remove lateral play in the outdrive. The moment you begin to overtighten the screw it causes extra stress on the plastic and makes it more prone to snapping.

I thought about trying delrin outdrives and axle blades.... If I do pick some up I'll comment on the durability, although XRAY plastic is hard to beat!
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Old 11-01-2013, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by cwoods34
Two tricks with the stock spool outdrives....

1. Cut any excess axle off past the wheel nut (threaded part). This can catch on boards and causes a lot of damage.

2. Tighten the outdrive screw just enough to remove lateral play in the outdrive. The moment you begin to overtighten the screw it causes extra stress on the plastic and makes it more prone to snapping.

I thought about trying delrin outdrives and axle blades.... If I do pick some up I'll comment on the durability, although XRAY plastic is hard to beat!

ok thanks, i've never actually broken one, I just find they wear quite a lot internally creating slop!
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Old 11-02-2013, 03:21 AM
  #583  
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Originally Posted by cwoods34
Two tricks with the stock spool outdrives....

1. Cut any excess axle off past the wheel nut (threaded part). This can catch on boards and causes a lot of damage.

2. Tighten the outdrive screw just enough to remove lateral play in the outdrive. The moment you begin to overtighten the screw it causes extra stress on the plastic and makes it more prone to snapping.

I thought about trying delrin outdrives and axle blades.... If I do pick some up I'll comment on the durability, although XRAY plastic is hard to beat!
I would also add that if you're paranoid, you can wrap a thin strip of cell tape around the outside of the outdrive. This allows the outdrive to distort slightly in an impact, but the tape helps spread the forces and prevent it from snapping out at one point;
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Old 11-02-2013, 10:08 AM
  #584  
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Originally Posted by Matt W
ok thanks, i've never actually broken one, I just find they wear quite a lot internally creating slop!
I've found that a small amount of Hudy black grease on the drive shaft pins or in the drive cup slots, helps to reduce wear. Doesn't seem to affect the plastic.
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Old 11-02-2013, 02:36 PM
  #585  
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Got my rear under control. Amazing set up that actually worked this friday ;-)
It was.
2k diff, 400 front shox 450 rear, 4 hole piston, 2.5-2.8 springs front, 2.7 rear. Anti roll bars 4 front, 3 rear. 2mm shim under steering block arm. 1mm shim top of c hub. 1mm shim front roll centre, 4mm shim rear hub, nothing on rear roll center. 0.5 toe out front. 3 rear. Front roll center upper clamp hole 2 rear hole 1. Front and rear shock mount hole 2. 1.5 camber front 2 rear. I think that is it.
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