Speed Passion brand new Spec Racing LeMans car - The LM1
#241
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
You can use the tamiya washer if you are not getting the diff action you want.
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...uct-id=3455940
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...uct-id=3455940
#243
ph3rxy and juares,
did you guys have any issue with the rear diff pressure plates? mines doesnt mount over the thick part of the axle shaft, as i thought it would, instead they sit on the threads so the washers seem to be a little crooked. did you have this issue also, and have you drove the car yet to see how the diff feels? thanks
did you guys have any issue with the rear diff pressure plates? mines doesnt mount over the thick part of the axle shaft, as i thought it would, instead they sit on the threads so the washers seem to be a little crooked. did you have this issue also, and have you drove the car yet to see how the diff feels? thanks
And make sure you have the pressure spacer in the right direction....2 ways to do it, (1) Like the manual, it is like < > I (2) I do it this way...< I >.
Give it a try....
#245
I think...it could be possible to mount the LM1 bumper on the SP1, but it might not be too rigid for impact.
#246
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
One thing I did is...take out the spur gear and make sure the core is big enough to slide into the diff/axle housing...this batch of spur gear, somehow, is a little bit TIGHT to the axle (compare to the SP1)...a body reamer will do the work, and all you need to do is enlarge it very very little...don't over do it. Slide the diff in and make sure it is easy to push it without too much pressure. And the diff should all work fine...
And make sure you have the pressure spacer in the right direction....2 ways to do it, (1) Like the manual, it is like < > I (2) I do it this way...< I >.
Give it a try....
And make sure you have the pressure spacer in the right direction....2 ways to do it, (1) Like the manual, it is like < > I (2) I do it this way...< I >.
Give it a try....
#247
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
i got the car built and it went together pretty smoothly. one thing is the pressure plates as i mentioned above and the other is the front pivot balls aren't that smooth. i guess its because its plastic to plastic. the front arms are a little tight as well but hopefully after i run it both of them free up. if not i can take a reamer to the front arms and hopefully sp comes out with treated pivot balls similar to tamiya.
after i installed the electronics i realized that the motor is sensor less, thats why the cost is so low on it, but to my surprise it seems really fast. i couldn't really get on it because one i was on front of the house and i didn't want the curb to hit the car and two the motor seem to be cogging. i rechecked the electronics and everything looks good but im not sure why it make that cogging noise. it could possibly because of the tightness of the spur gear on the axle, which i just fixed, or the diff springs not being seated on the axle, idk. does anybody have any advice?
after i installed the electronics i realized that the motor is sensor less, thats why the cost is so low on it, but to my surprise it seems really fast. i couldn't really get on it because one i was on front of the house and i didn't want the curb to hit the car and two the motor seem to be cogging. i rechecked the electronics and everything looks good but im not sure why it make that cogging noise. it could possibly because of the tightness of the spur gear on the axle, which i just fixed, or the diff springs not being seated on the axle, idk. does anybody have any advice?
#248
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
It is the same....if you use the SP1, you just need to mount the foam tires (LM1 foams) and it will fit. However, what it doesn't work are the body mounts...Front and the back. Those need to be handmade with some carbon fiber mount or something...
I think...it could be possible to mount the LM1 bumper on the SP1, but it might not be too rigid for impact.
I think...it could be possible to mount the LM1 bumper on the SP1, but it might not be too rigid for impact.
#249
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
i got the car built and it went together pretty smoothly. one thing is the pressure plates as i mentioned above and the other is the front pivot balls aren't that smooth. i guess its because its plastic to plastic. the front arms are a little tight as well but hopefully after i run it both of them free up. if not i can take a reamer to the front arms and hopefully sp comes out with treated pivot balls similar to tamiya.
The may be a slight bit of "flash" from the core for the king pin at the steering knuckle side. I removed this by gently rotating an X-Acto blade inside the ball which freed the king pin.
I did not have the issue you mentioned with the pressure springs for the diff. Eric G had his car done at the track today, besides traction rolling the sweeper and some diff adjustments, car felt good.
We geared the 17.5 conservatively at 26 pinion and the SP 72 spur to start.
#251
#252
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
I ended up at a 23/72. for roughly an 80' straight.
I have noticed, need to check screws often as the chassis and parts are flexing and stretching on initial runs.
We posted a short video here from the first run.
https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-T...25266694216753
I have noticed, need to check screws often as the chassis and parts are flexing and stretching on initial runs.
We posted a short video here from the first run.
https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-T...25266694216753
#254
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
You can use the tamiya washer if you are not getting the diff action you want.
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...uct-id=3455940
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...uct-id=3455940