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Old 09-07-2013, 04:33 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valk View Post
Ceramic balls are cheaper than a dif kit or outdrives lol
ceramic balls wont change how the diff slips under power of a mod motor, and will still melt the plastic outdrives, thus not solving the problem.


Quote:
Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
... I tried all of the above and the bolt's head popped on both the front and rear End !
Your over torquing the bolts
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Old 09-07-2013, 04:53 PM   #17
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It's impossible to overtorque a rear ball diff bolt in a mod tc4 ! If the bolt is a little tight, the Car will spinout at every corner... The bolt needs to be loose to let the diff Work properly, and that's how I had it and it still popped..... It's really a matter of how much power gets transferred to the rear diff when you run another diff in the front versus a spool up front... The front spool takes all the load and transfers nothing in the rear diff, unless you spin your front Tires, while the front diff will slip (or blow) and transfer a good amount of power to the rear diff(will also blow)... With a spool, your tc4 will be at least three wheel drive at launch, while a front ball diff might cause your tc4 to be a One wheel drive vehicle ,in case One of the diffs slips heavily... You choose buddy !!!
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Old 09-09-2013, 12:54 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
It's impossible to overtorque ...bla bla bla


For the plastic outdrive diff :

READ THE FOLLOWING CAREFULLY.
As you tighten the diff bolt, pay close attention to the feeling when
the spring is fully compressed. Do not overtighten the bolt. When
you feel the spring fully compressed, loosen the diff bolt 1/2 turn.
No more, no less. After you have driven the car for one pack,
recheck the diff adjustment as above so that when you feel the
spring fully compressed, loosen the diff bolt 1/2 turn. Never adjust
the diff any other way.



With steel outdrives you can adjust the diff anywhere from fully compressed to 3/4 out. Recomended starting point is 1/4 out.
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Old 09-09-2013, 01:34 PM   #19
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rojnas diffsetting tips are correct, remember them well from my tc3 era back in the days

remember using the plastic outdrives when thet were released at first back in 2000-2001, worked with 12t brushed motors if used correctly, but melted quite fast if something was made wrong. but thery made my tc3 lighter

i can imagine that with todays bl motors 13.5t should be the fastest a plastic balldiff can take
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Old 09-09-2013, 03:01 PM   #20
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As others have said, you should upgrade to steel outdrives if you are planning to use a ball diff with powerful motors on an Electric TC3/TC4 (at least in the front). Team Associated (AE) make a complete lightweight steel diff part #31128. Here is a link on Tower (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXATRX&P=7).

You should also note that a steel (or aftermarket aluminum) diff for a TC3/TC4 assembles differently than a plastic diff. Make sure to closely follow the directions when putting it together.

If you do ruin a steel diff bolt/nut, you can buy a replacement here (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYDV7&P=7).
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Old 09-09-2013, 03:59 PM   #21
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since no one else said it I will
Your diff was too loose.
And I mean WAY loose.
To melt a gear it has to be howling like mad for a long time.
Pay attention.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...er-clutch.html
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Old 09-09-2013, 06:44 PM   #22
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Rojna has not pushed the limits of the tc4 diffs long enough to know what works in mod Racing/bashing.... Second place in the Bmain VTA won't Work in the mod world...lol... It's physics not reading a simple instruction manual..... I've been running my rear diffs for over six years now, with no rebuilds necessary, and I will take that to the bank.... I don't run plastic at all, and only run aluminum or steel, and I don't chop Off nothing out of the original tc4 either... Lol...
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Old 09-09-2013, 06:54 PM   #23
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It can be overwhelming if you don't understand physics buddy....
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Old 09-09-2013, 10:15 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
I've been running my rear diffs for over six years now, with no rebuilds necessary
That is a loooooong time.
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Old 09-10-2013, 09:32 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by L.Fairtrace View Post
Why didn't I do this a long time ago.


Yes, it worked!!! Now only if we didn't have to see the name at all!!!!!
Thanks Larry, it does work !!
didnt know there is a TROLL filter on here
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Old 09-10-2013, 11:17 AM   #26
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I just got the lightweight shell diff set. and it is installed just waiting on a pack to charge up. I hope this one holds up i watched the video like three times and i did everything he said to a T, If i blow this one apart i dont know what else to do. I mean is a castle 4600Kv with a 50c 2s LiPo to much for the car to handle?
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Old 09-10-2013, 11:54 AM   #27
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Subordinate #2 is back to conformity ! Tc4's will always be in the Bmain with his advice....lol...
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Old 09-10-2013, 01:20 PM   #28
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just follow the steps rojna said in earlier post and diff will be fine, make sure to retighten it after 2-3min on first runt to make sure it doesnt slip more than i should.
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Old 09-10-2013, 01:37 PM   #29
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Quote:
tc4 is a decent chassis to start out with but don't buy it expecting to upgrade the crap out of it. if you buy it, it is what it is. balldifs arent terrible though. if your racing stock, you really dont need a geardif.
If u want an upgrade, why not go dc4 le for ur tc4?
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Old 09-10-2013, 06:26 PM   #30
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You could get both and be in the Amain rightaway, not the other mains.....
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