2LikesTamiya TRF418
08-16-2014, 06:12 AM
#1651
Has anyone tried running a plastic 418 style arm? I am assuming they make a plastic 418 style arm for some of the more inexpensive on-road kits. The graphite 418 arms are very, very rigid. I am wondering if a softer material would give a little and help save the c-hubs and even the hinge pins?
08-16-2014, 07:38 AM
#1652
08-16-2014, 08:35 AM
#1653
Wow that's a very very broken arm!
I've only broken chubs. Checked all my pins and they were fine. I was going to complement Tamiya in the new arms because the outer ring doesn't crack like the old style.
Just goes to show you that breakage issues are very subjective to your track and boards in use I guess.
I've only broken chubs. Checked all my pins and they were fine. I was going to complement Tamiya in the new arms because the outer ring doesn't crack like the old style.
Just goes to show you that breakage issues are very subjective to your track and boards in use I guess.
08-16-2014, 01:10 PM
#1654
VBC chubs are a no go. Hinge pin too big. Back to my racing....
08-16-2014, 02:43 PM
#1655
Me and my son was training all day at a new track. Cars running perfectly.
Except for the d..... blades. Broke them in the front almost after each battery.
Some have suggested other brand blades, but I have now ordered the direct cups (19804512) to use without blades. I'd rather change a shaft and cup now and then rather than replacing a blade or two after each run.
Why is using blades a good thing as opposed to running direct cups? Is it only beacuse it is cheaper to replace blades than replacing shafts and cups.
On our 1/8 buggies, we changed the pins in the dogbone shafts instead of buying a complete new shaft, which was mucb cheaper, and you only had to change the cup.
Except for the d..... blades. Broke them in the front almost after each battery.
Some have suggested other brand blades, but I have now ordered the direct cups (19804512) to use without blades. I'd rather change a shaft and cup now and then rather than replacing a blade or two after each run.
Why is using blades a good thing as opposed to running direct cups? Is it only beacuse it is cheaper to replace blades than replacing shafts and cups.
On our 1/8 buggies, we changed the pins in the dogbone shafts instead of buying a complete new shaft, which was mucb cheaper, and you only had to change the cup.
08-16-2014, 04:27 PM
#1656
08-16-2014, 07:10 PM
#1658
08-16-2014, 07:25 PM
#1659
08-16-2014, 07:29 PM
#1660
Muh hahahaha Found more stateside....
08-16-2014, 09:27 PM
#1661
So here we go, on Rcmart....
$5.50
http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-54580-c...h=595_744_1471
vs
$11.50!
http://www.rcmart.com/yokomo-front-g...h=595_746_1430
Arms are the same comparison, a full set of 4 is $12 for tamiya, $25 for yokomo. The yokomo ones come as front L/R & rear L/R as opposed to F/R as a pair through.
$5.50
http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-54580-c...h=595_744_1471
vs
$11.50!
http://www.rcmart.com/yokomo-front-g...h=595_746_1430
Arms are the same comparison, a full set of 4 is $12 for tamiya, $25 for yokomo. The yokomo ones come as front L/R & rear L/R as opposed to F/R as a pair through.
08-17-2014, 11:27 AM
#1662
Me and my son was training all day at a new track. Cars running perfectly.
Except for the d..... blades. Broke them in the front almost after each battery.
Some have suggested other brand blades, but I have now ordered the direct cups (19804512) to use without blades. I'd rather change a shaft and cup now and then rather than replacing a blade or two after each run.
Why is using blades a good thing as opposed to running direct cups? Is it only beacuse it is cheaper to replace blades than replacing shafts and cups.
On our 1/8 buggies, we changed the pins in the dogbone shafts instead of buying a complete new shaft, which was mucb cheaper, and you only had to change the cup.
Except for the d..... blades. Broke them in the front almost after each battery.
Some have suggested other brand blades, but I have now ordered the direct cups (19804512) to use without blades. I'd rather change a shaft and cup now and then rather than replacing a blade or two after each run.
Why is using blades a good thing as opposed to running direct cups? Is it only beacuse it is cheaper to replace blades than replacing shafts and cups.
On our 1/8 buggies, we changed the pins in the dogbone shafts instead of buying a complete new shaft, which was mucb cheaper, and you only had to change the cup.
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=5285
08-17-2014, 12:34 PM
#1664
Change the outdrives to pn 84294. No more problems. Use a dab of grease where the metal to metal contacts.
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=5285
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=5285
08-17-2014, 12:50 PM
#1665
Used the car today for the first time and after so long (7yrs) out of the hobby thought i would be just happy to go around. But even though I was being on the cautious side and driving smooth it came flooding back pretty quick and I was reasonably competitive.
I did find that the car seemed to push on corner entry and also mid corner which stopped me from properly being able to hook into the tight turns. Track was outdoor med-low grip asphalt. My question is what should I be looking to change to improve this as I am sure this was where I was losing the time.
Car is basically kit setup but with MR33 Red springs. I use 400 oil in shocks but they do have about 50% rebound?? I was using the same tyres and additive as everyone else.
I am thinking softer spring at the front and maybe rebuilding the shocks with 0 rebound might be the first thing to try??
I did find that the car seemed to push on corner entry and also mid corner which stopped me from properly being able to hook into the tight turns. Track was outdoor med-low grip asphalt. My question is what should I be looking to change to improve this as I am sure this was where I was losing the time.
Car is basically kit setup but with MR33 Red springs. I use 400 oil in shocks but they do have about 50% rebound?? I was using the same tyres and additive as everyone else.
I am thinking softer spring at the front and maybe rebuilding the shocks with 0 rebound might be the first thing to try??
