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I read that YR and 3R uses cheap aluminum to make their parts? It'll work for most applications, but not for high stress areas.
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Originally Posted by Dan
(Post 13436633)
You would use the same Tamiya hinge pins, should not be any drilling required. You have to shave material off the Xray C-hub if you want it fitted to 418 arms.
I went from an X-Ray T4 '13 to TRF418. The 418 is an immediately better handling car, even on lower traction asphalt. One of the things I noticed is maybe this is attributed to how much less unsprung weight there is compared to an X-ray. All the X-ray suspension parts are beefy, but they weigh a lot too compared to the BD7/418 counterpart. I plan to stick with Tamiya parts on my car. |
Originally Posted by redbones
(Post 13436638)
I read that YR and 3R uses cheap aluminum to make their parts? It'll work for most applications, but not for high stress areas.
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Originally Posted by syndr0me
(Post 13436716)
This is my concern as well. The Square bits were great back in the day.
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX
(Post 13436725)
Or you could quit hittin $hit :lol:
* That was a joke nuthuggers, put your pitchforks down. |
I ran Hotbodies before coming over. Those c hubs broke in the pits!
Guess it's all relative. |
Just get the Square Aluminum ones. That's what I ran on my 416. They still sell them. Just be sure to get the 416 version, not the Evo 4. They cost upwards of $30, but it's better aluminum than the cheaper HK brands. Those Yeah Racing ones look interesting though with the bearings. And cheap too at $12 a set.
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It's a bit late now as you have ordered them, but I checked and the dcj's were fine with the yeah racing c hubs on my mates 416. Hopefully they will be ok with the 418 arms. As to strength they have been fine (although this is 10.5 boosted, not mod)
As to the car on carpet, I love it. Still managing to keep my car ahead of the field at my local club, I like how the car is just so consistent so I can keep pushing it faster and faster. Interesting to hear your thoughts on the Samir on carpet. I haven't tried it but I briefly had a bd7 14 which is similar and I didn't like it as much as my 418, seemed to bog down to much. |
Originally Posted by JimmyMac
(Post 13437200)
Just get the Square Aluminum ones. That's what I ran on my 416. They still sell them. Just be sure to get the 416 version, not the Evo 4. They cost upwards of $30, but it's better aluminum than the cheaper HK brands. Those Yeah Racing ones look interesting though with the bearings. And cheap too at $12 a set.
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Squares don't clear the DCJs. At least not my old ones.
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Bust out the dremel. :D
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Originally Posted by Raman
(Post 13437217)
Good place to order the 416 blocks is at Banzai.. You won't pay the hefty $30!
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Originally Posted by Qatmix
(Post 13437212)
It's a bit late now as you have ordered them, but I checked and the dcj's were fine with the yeah racing c hubs on my mates 416. Hopefully they will be ok with the 418 arms. As to strength they have been fine (although this is 10.5 boosted, not mod)
As to the car on carpet, I love it. Still managing to keep my car ahead of the field at my local club, I like how the car is just so consistent so I can keep pushing it faster and faster. Interesting to hear your thoughts on the Samir on carpet. I haven't tried it but I briefly had a bd7 14 which is similar and I didn't like it as much as my 418, seemed to bog down to much. |
Originally Posted by JimmyMac
(Post 13437509)
You still running kit chassis? I'm running Smokem for asphalt and saving my kit for carpet.
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Originally Posted by JimmyMac
(Post 13437503)
I checked this morning. Banzai had them for $32.
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