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I've been racing them for a while and have not broken one since I fitted them. I race indoors on carpet with very unforgiving boards. The car is pretty much built like a tank... A fast tank :)

Anybody successfully modified the 418 to use XRay c-hubs? The Tamiya ones (even the new reinforced version) are garbage.

Just been rebuilding my diff as was not completely happy with it. Should you be able to feel gentle mesh by the gears?
Also I have shimmed it using 0.1mm shims so that there is no side to side float of the outdrives without making it tight, does this sound correct.

its good to see some things haven't changed...

Not aware of anyone doing that, the 418 is tough, I've only broken one C hub in 6 months and I swaped over to the new ones and they are still intact no matter how much I've tried :)

Once they make the new style C-hub in plastic maybe that will be more reliable.
Indoors, I switched to the plastic old style C-hubs and stopped breaking them completely.

Outdoors, graphite all the way.

+1

Never broke a C-Hub on my 417 or 418, indoors and outdoors. For sure I'm not a rookie learning to drive, but I'm not the cleanest driver out there either. Some people must be slapping boards multiple times a lap. :lol::lol::lol:

- Jose

Yeah, you guys must be amazing, I wish I was as good as all of you.

Since I'm not, I'm looking for a solution. The old plastic chubs make the car pushy and inconsistent on carpet with grip, but they're the only things that don't break. It's hard to believe, but the new reinforced chubs actually break more easily.

I picked up a cheap 418 from Tower to abuse on the rug for mod practice, and it's been surprisingly good except that I'm spending more on replacement chubs than the kit itself.

Has anybody tried the 3racing or yeah racing aluminum? Do they interfere with the DCJ's or bend easily? I'm aware of the pitfalls of running aluminum chubs, so I don't need a lecture there. Thanks.

They even tried to fix it and released this super beefy looking new chubs that look like they would withstand a nuke from orbit. And they removed the need for that stupid shim. Sadly, somehow they're actually WORSE and snap off at the bottom with a single tap. Even with a hard xray bumper and the DCJ axles cut flush with the wheel nuts. It's really pretty sad. I guess the car is only meant for expert drivers.

I have a friend who uses the 3Racing ones on his 416x and they have been fine. I don't know if he has DCJ's on his car (although I think he does) I will ask him tomorrow if he needed to mod them to fit.

I do find it surprising you are having issues though, on the 417 I had a fair share of c-hubs fail as did others, but as mentioned it's been great with the 418. Although you are right, I am amazing ;p

i think i have a set of square, or so brand chubs in the man cave. i bought them for my 417x back in the day...

*shrug*
This has always been a problem on US style boards tracks. We're just using click track, as standard as it gets for US tracks. I'm not the only person having the problem.

But I certainly do love hearing from all the mixers out there that never get close enough to the line to hit a board telling me how everything is fine. I won a $5 bet that it's exactly the response I would get. Thanks for delivering, all of you.

They smash against the DCJ's. :cry:

i know cars that don't have that problem

We can go on and on with the sarcasm, but you're right, it's not going to help fix your problem. I've never had to adapt a different component on the car and it sounds like no one else has either. What's an Xray C-hub cost? Time to be a trailblazer, Syndrome... ;)

If you find a solution, it'll be cheaper than buying a set of aluminum hubs. Hope you find one. The car is pretty good.

- Jose