Tamiya TB04 Pro
#811
Tech Champion
iTrader: (94)
I was hoping to have this in hand by today (Thursday), build it and race it tomorrow night. However it's been sitting in the LA sort facility since yesterday. Doesn't seem likely, will most likely have to use the BD7 RS which I planned on selling. Hopefully I won't break any parts that I don't already have lol.
Last edited by Raman; 07-31-2014 at 11:29 AM.
#816
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
I'm running stock droop settings on mine.
I purchased #42216 Tamiya Double Cardan Joint Shafts Set for the front of my TB04V2 to free up the front and reduce the sounds when turning. I also bought a pack of 3mm shims of .1, .2 and .3 thickness to remove any slop that the car may develop over time.
I think I have officially given up on touring car bodies, I just don't enjoy running body shells I don't like the look of. So I have been running a Tamiya HSV-010 body, which brings race ready weight to 1540g. Despite this, I have no plans to buy any lightweight parts because it seems to handle just fine.
Has anyone else been running their tb04?
I purchased #42216 Tamiya Double Cardan Joint Shafts Set for the front of my TB04V2 to free up the front and reduce the sounds when turning. I also bought a pack of 3mm shims of .1, .2 and .3 thickness to remove any slop that the car may develop over time.
I think I have officially given up on touring car bodies, I just don't enjoy running body shells I don't like the look of. So I have been running a Tamiya HSV-010 body, which brings race ready weight to 1540g. Despite this, I have no plans to buy any lightweight parts because it seems to handle just fine.
Has anyone else been running their tb04?
#817
Tech Champion
iTrader: (94)
I never run / race TC bodies. The day run those is the day I sell everything and leave this hobby. I race these cars because I can't afford to race the real thing. So a generic looking body is worthless to me.
Do you have a way of measuring your droop using droop blocks or from axle spindle down.
The kit set up says 2mm of the screw showing. Maybe I'm measuring wrong or my calliper is off, but it's too much droop
Do you have a way of measuring your droop using droop blocks or from axle spindle down.
The kit set up says 2mm of the screw showing. Maybe I'm measuring wrong or my calliper is off, but it's too much droop
#818
Tech Elite
iTrader: (36)
I never run / race TC bodies. The day run those is the day I sell everything and leave this hobby. I race these cars because I can't afford to race the real thing. So a generic looking body is worthless to me.
Do you have a way of measuring your droop using droop blocks or from axle spindle down.
The kit set up says 2mm of the screw showing. Maybe I'm measuring wrong or my calliper is off, but it's too much droop
Do you have a way of measuring your droop using droop blocks or from axle spindle down.
The kit set up says 2mm of the screw showing. Maybe I'm measuring wrong or my calliper is off, but it's too much droop
I hear you on the scale bodies, that is why I'm not keen on running TC myself, I stick with VTA and other more realistic classes. As for droop, I can't remember if you said you already have droop blocks and a gauge? If not, they're a great investment. I can't remember if you're still overseas or not, but I can recommend Eds Tools. They make the Hudy tools (and others), so it's high quality but for half the price.
I recommend these blocks: http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...oducts_id=6607
And one of these two gauges, depending on how fine you want to get and what range you'll be in (I have both): http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...oducts_id=6608 and http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...oducts_id=6611
I just wish someone told me about these before I bought the Hudy branded ones
#819
A quick and easy way is to use a ride height gauge. Set your car in a setup board in race trim. Tires, batt, everything. Measure your ride height. Then pick up the front or rear of your car (whichever end you're measuring) until the tires just touch the board. Now measure with the gauge again. There's your droop. Simple and easy.
#820
Tech Champion
iTrader: (94)
Hey Raman,
I hear you on the scale bodies, that is why I'm not keen on running TC myself, I stick with VTA and other more realistic classes. As for droop, I can't remember if you said you already have droop blocks and a gauge? If not, they're a great investment. I can't remember if you're still overseas or not, but I can recommend Eds Tools. They make the Hudy tools (and others), so it's high quality but for half the price.
I recommend these blocks: http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...oducts_id=6607
And one of these two gauges, depending on how fine you want to get and what range you'll be in (I have both): http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...oducts_id=6608 and http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...oducts_id=6611
I just wish someone told me about these before I bought the Hudy branded ones
I hear you on the scale bodies, that is why I'm not keen on running TC myself, I stick with VTA and other more realistic classes. As for droop, I can't remember if you said you already have droop blocks and a gauge? If not, they're a great investment. I can't remember if you're still overseas or not, but I can recommend Eds Tools. They make the Hudy tools (and others), so it's high quality but for half the price.
I recommend these blocks: http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...oducts_id=6607
And one of these two gauges, depending on how fine you want to get and what range you'll be in (I have both): http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...oducts_id=6608 and http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...oducts_id=6611
I just wish someone told me about these before I bought the Hudy branded ones
http://www.amain.com/Dynamite-Precision-Droop-Gauge-w-Blocks/p58986
That's what I used to measure the droop after following instructions. The arms were +5 or higher. So I adjusted then to 2 in rear and 3 in front like my other cars as a staring point.
I was just finishing and attaching dampers and noticed the that arms need to go up a bit to connect to dampers.. So my droop settings off the blocks of 3 and 2 are not sufficient. So I'm totally confused now lol.
Last.. I like the transponder idea but where is the stay? Is it not included in the kit?
Last edited by Raman; 08-09-2014 at 12:02 PM.
#821
#823
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
I have droop blocks / gauge set by dynamite
http://www.amain.com/Dynamite-Precis...-Blocks/p58986
That's what I used to measure the droop after following instructions. The arms were +5 or higher. So I adjusted then to 2 in rear and 3 in front like my other cars as a staring point.
I was just finishing and attaching dampers and noticed the that arms need to go up a bit to connect to dampers.. So my droop settings off the blocks of 3 and 2 are not sufficient. So I'm totally confused now lol.
Last.. I like the transponder idea but where is the stay? Is it not included in the kit?
http://www.amain.com/Dynamite-Precis...-Blocks/p58986
That's what I used to measure the droop after following instructions. The arms were +5 or higher. So I adjusted then to 2 in rear and 3 in front like my other cars as a staring point.
I was just finishing and attaching dampers and noticed the that arms need to go up a bit to connect to dampers.. So my droop settings off the blocks of 3 and 2 are not sufficient. So I'm totally confused now lol.
Last.. I like the transponder idea but where is the stay? Is it not included in the kit?
The transponder mount is designed to accommodate the AMB handout transponders, which have a cylinder structure that goes through the hole in the chassis and is held on by a body clip. If you check the manual, you will see exactly what I mean.
I'm using the rc4 hybrid personal transponder so I just double side tape it to the top wall of the box. Since this transponder is so small, it leaves alot of space for lead weights if you need any.
#825
Tech Adept
I have since installed a tornado cooling fan from yeah racing. it kept the motor temp to around 55 degree C monitor by Sanwa RX461 with temp sensor. it is this way no matter how it run the car now under all weather. the fan is not blowing directly at the sensor (maybe around 150 degree angle away). before the fan, the motor may get heated to 75 degree C under bashing runs of maybe 20-25 min.
I also checked the mesh again due to some sound from gear box. the ring gear broken 1 single tooth. I will bashed all up before changing to carbon reinforced version. As I have 2 more normal sets of non carbon gears.
I also checked the mesh again due to some sound from gear box. the ring gear broken 1 single tooth. I will bashed all up before changing to carbon reinforced version. As I have 2 more normal sets of non carbon gears.