Tamiya TB04 Pro
#406
#407
I have not tried the 6 degree hubs and, in theory, prefer more steering and direct feel of 4 degree hubs.
#408
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
I used TB03 gears and dremeled the small gear so that the eclip can fit onto the shaft. I then had to clean all the flash from the dremeling with a sharp xacto blade. Time consuming...and not really worth the effort. When I built the chassis, the TB04 ball diff and spool were unavailable at the time so I used what I had access to.
#409
Any updated race data? How are we finishing with this car?
Waiting for stock to get in so I can order the pro version.
Waiting for stock to get in so I can order the pro version.
#410
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
Our local TAC qualifiers start on the 25th... but so far, during tuning runs, the car looks good. so far the spool and 4deg front hubs work best. On race day, we'll have a better gauge against the TB03s and TA05s also running.
BTW, we run 12T sensorless with Tamiya LiFE batteries.
BTW, we run 12T sensorless with Tamiya LiFE batteries.
#411
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
Gear diff durability
How are the gear diffs holding up in your cars?
I have been running around 4 to 6 batteries per week since December on a high traction abrasive surface and this week I wore out the rear diff (running 3000cst). All the internal gears were completely worn out (sun and planetary) and the silicone oil went from crystal clear to black sludge. I built the diffs with the stock plastic gears and cross shafts but with the red O-rings. All the diff fluid was still in there (although it turned black and ended up looking more like grease than silicon oil).
Since I am running a 17.5 brushless with 12.3mm rotor in blinky I figured the diff would last much longer. I have the steel gears and cross shafts on order but was curious what others have experienced so far with the plastic parts.
I have been running around 4 to 6 batteries per week since December on a high traction abrasive surface and this week I wore out the rear diff (running 3000cst). All the internal gears were completely worn out (sun and planetary) and the silicone oil went from crystal clear to black sludge. I built the diffs with the stock plastic gears and cross shafts but with the red O-rings. All the diff fluid was still in there (although it turned black and ended up looking more like grease than silicon oil).
Since I am running a 17.5 brushless with 12.3mm rotor in blinky I figured the diff would last much longer. I have the steel gears and cross shafts on order but was curious what others have experienced so far with the plastic parts.
#413
Craigmba did you get a chance to try the tb04 against the 03 yet. Curious what the better carpet car will be.
#414
I am sure this is already answered, but what is the biggest spur and pinion combo can you fit, in 64p without modifing anything, thanks
#415
Wow.... Sorry to hear about the gear diffs... Ball diffs will fair better....
#416
[QUOTE=rtypec;12898628]I used TB03 gears and dremeled the small gear so that the eclip can fit onto the shaft. I then had to clean all the flash from the dremeling with a sharp xacto blade. Time consuming...and not really worth the effort. When I built the chassis, the TB04 ball diff and spool were unavailable at the time so I used what I had access to.
Hi, using some 220 no-fill sand paper on a piece of glass works a charm for next time maybe. No flash to deal with.
Like we used to do diff rings to get them flat with a fine wet-dry.
Hi, using some 220 no-fill sand paper on a piece of glass works a charm for next time maybe. No flash to deal with.
Like we used to do diff rings to get them flat with a fine wet-dry.
Last edited by 97Clemow; 01-19-2014 at 01:26 AM.
#417
#418
Our local TAC qualifiers start on the 25th... but so far, during tuning runs, the car looks good. so far the spool and 4deg front hubs work best. On race day, we'll have a better gauge against the TB03s and TA05s also running.
BTW, we run 12T sensorless with Tamiya LiFE batteries.
BTW, we run 12T sensorless with Tamiya LiFE batteries.
i have been thinking of getting those as i don't really like lipo (because of the danger and maintenance), how do they compare and what runtime are you getting?
#419
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
since they're LiFE (lower voltage, 7.2V), cars are noticeably slower compared to running LiPo. Gearing is also very different because of this. For our track, gearing ~5.0 would be enough for a 5min run plus a couple more laps... after that the car starts to crawl...
#420