Intellect Battery 3800
#661
Originally Posted by Danny/SMC
Yes we do the matching for BrOOd and use the same process as our SMC packs.
We communicate with IB frequently and in our talks with them we told them that the voltage curve is more important than capacity. They told us they would work on it but we never expected them to be able to pick up .02 in such a short time. Guess they have a great R&D team and they really want to make the best RC race cell.
We communicate with IB frequently and in our talks with them we told them that the voltage curve is more important than capacity. They told us they would work on it but we never expected them to be able to pick up .02 in such a short time. Guess they have a great R&D team and they really want to make the best RC race cell.
i agree that the voltage is more important now that we have the long run times, with the IB3800s and to come up with .02 in such a short time is amazing!
#662
Tech Master
where did oscar go? i'm waiting on him to tell us that voltage is nothing! muahahahahhha do you hear that???? thats the sound of the guys at GP scratching there heads! he he
#663
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (9)
Originally Posted by Danny/SMC
If you race at a track where it's cool then using a higher peak detect is reccomended. When you race outdoors and it's windy you should also keep your packs out of the airflow to get a proper charge.
#664
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by Brian Anthony
Why do Hara, Reinhart, Masami, Surikan, and these other world level drivers always charge with their batteries on fans or in heatsinks when outdoors? You can't beat the results that these drivers have had but of course you can never get an answer as to why they do it.
Here's a simple test take two packs with similar numbers cycle one on a fan and another just sitting on a table. The one on the fan will cycle with a much higher IR and lower voltage. Swap the packs and repeat the test the following day...the result will be the same the pack on the fan is always crappy.
#665
Battery Gurus may suggest a temperature on a public forum that is a safe temperature that protects them from liability.
Originally Posted by UCHEATULOSE
most of the battery gurus suggest a peak temp for the IB's under 130 deg
too many factors trying to figure out if it's car or batteries. that pack i would have to cycle on a charger to see if they have fallen off?
too many factors trying to figure out if it's car or batteries. that pack i would have to cycle on a charger to see if they have fallen off?
#667
Danny, why is airflow bad for the cells, and why does it raise the IR? Is it because the chemical reaction can't happen as fast when it is cold?
-Josh
-Josh
#668
Company Representative
iTrader: (2)
Cold or cool cells will not charge as well thus keep the voltage lower and IR higher.
Typically a pack should be atleast 70-75 degrees to have a good charge with no airflow. If the pack is below that temp you can bump up the peak detect some to help it get a better charge.
Typically a pack should be atleast 70-75 degrees to have a good charge with no airflow. If the pack is below that temp you can bump up the peak detect some to help it get a better charge.
#669
Tech Master
Originally Posted by trf racer
can anyone tell me wether there is a problem with the ib3600 cell.someone told me the ones with the white end covers,near were the positive button is that they are a faulty batch and the new batch have a black cover ring like all gp batteries,anyone confirm this please
anyone got an opinion?danny?
#671
Tech Master
Originally Posted by Danny/SMC
We've sold many IB3600 with white washers and they worked well but some did report that they would go soft after a few minutes. From time to time there could be the odd cell that had an issue within a pack which would lower the packs capacity.
also a factory driver for a certain team has experienced this problem and that same team give him replacemnts with the black washer.
do you think i have a right to a replacement from the matcher?
all packs go soft in the 3-4 min mark.
my gearing and mottor set up is perfect also.
#672
I have experienced this problem also. I'll try to test each cell and it turns out there is only one cell that cause a problem, not the entire pack.
#673
Originally Posted by Danny/SMC
Yes we will suggest what works best for performance and life expectancy. The fact is that some racers will abuse their packs to get the maximum power out of them at the expense of life expectancy.
I am not dis-agreeing with you Danny. I would just phrase it differently. I would say some racers will seek out ways to get maximum power out of them. This may shorten the competitive life of the battery.
Just like F1 cars screaming along at 20k rpm that motor is not going to work a few weeks in the future but man what a sound while it is. I am new to racing again, sort of, and I am looking for the limits of battery output these days. Once I find them I can tie performance level to my budget and goals. I just know the batteries were putting out more watts at a higher temp, and I am looking for confirmation. Can you e-mail me with any other battery info?
BTW, thanks for supporting this thread. I am using SMC cells exclusively.
#674
Company Representative
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by trf racer
is this possibly lightly with 5 packs of batteries?
also a factory driver for a certain team has experienced this problem and that same team give him replacemnts with the black washer.
do you think i have a right to a replacement from the matcher?
all packs go soft in the 3-4 min mark.
my gearing and mottor set up is perfect also.
also a factory driver for a certain team has experienced this problem and that same team give him replacemnts with the black washer.
do you think i have a right to a replacement from the matcher?
all packs go soft in the 3-4 min mark.
my gearing and mottor set up is perfect also.
#675
Company Representative
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by beerbarron
I am not dis-agreeing with you Danny. I would just phrase it differently. I would say some racers will seek out ways to get maximum power out of them. This may shorten the competitive life of the battery.
Just like F1 cars screaming along at 20k rpm that motor is not going to work a few weeks in the future but man what a sound while it is. I am new to racing again, sort of, and I am looking for the limits of battery output these days. Once I find them I can tie performance level to my budget and goals. I just know the batteries were putting out more watts at a higher temp, and I am looking for confirmation. Can you e-mail me with any other battery info?
BTW, thanks for supporting this thread. I am using SMC cells exclusively.
Just like F1 cars screaming along at 20k rpm that motor is not going to work a few weeks in the future but man what a sound while it is. I am new to racing again, sort of, and I am looking for the limits of battery output these days. Once I find them I can tie performance level to my budget and goals. I just know the batteries were putting out more watts at a higher temp, and I am looking for confirmation. Can you e-mail me with any other battery info?
BTW, thanks for supporting this thread. I am using SMC cells exclusively.
Your wording is real good.
I would follow what we reccomend on our website it seems to work real well and is relatively easy on the cells. I'm sure some of our drivers will read this thread and may say what they have been doing to get more power. The one thing I can think of is higher amp rate to charge at. This should increase power but may hurt life expectancy.