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Old 10-27-2005, 04:18 PM   #661
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danny/SMC
Yes we do the matching for BrOOd and use the same process as our SMC packs.

We communicate with IB frequently and in our talks with them we told them that the voltage curve is more important than capacity. They told us they would work on it but we never expected them to be able to pick up .02 in such a short time. Guess they have a great R&D team and they really want to make the best RC race cell.

i agree that the voltage is more important now that we have the long run times, with the IB3800s and to come up with .02 in such a short time is amazing!
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Old 10-27-2005, 05:21 PM   #662
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where did oscar go? i'm waiting on him to tell us that voltage is nothing! muahahahahhha do you hear that???? thats the sound of the guys at GP scratching there heads! he he
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Old 10-27-2005, 05:49 PM   #663
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danny/SMC
If you race at a track where it's cool then using a higher peak detect is reccomended. When you race outdoors and it's windy you should also keep your packs out of the airflow to get a proper charge.
Why do Hara, Reinhart, Masami, Surikan, and these other world level drivers always charge with their batteries on fans or in heatsinks when outdoors? You can't beat the results that these drivers have had but of course you can never get an answer as to why they do it.
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Old 10-27-2005, 06:07 PM   #664
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Anthony
Why do Hara, Reinhart, Masami, Surikan, and these other world level drivers always charge with their batteries on fans or in heatsinks when outdoors? You can't beat the results that these drivers have had but of course you can never get an answer as to why they do it.
They don't charge on fans and the heat sinks are used as heat spreaders to keep the pack at an even temp not to cool the batts while charging.

Here's a simple test take two packs with similar numbers cycle one on a fan and another just sitting on a table. The one on the fan will cycle with a much higher IR and lower voltage. Swap the packs and repeat the test the following day...the result will be the same the pack on the fan is always crappy.
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Old 10-27-2005, 07:23 PM   #665
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Battery Gurus may suggest a temperature on a public forum that is a safe temperature that protects them from liability.

Quote:
Originally Posted by UCHEATULOSE
most of the battery gurus suggest a peak temp for the IB's under 130 deg

too many factors trying to figure out if it's car or batteries. that pack i would have to cycle on a charger to see if they have fallen off?
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Old 10-28-2005, 01:34 AM   #666
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Yes we will suggest what works best for performance and life expectancy. The fact is that some racers will abuse their packs to get the maximum power out of them at the expense of life expectancy.
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Old 10-28-2005, 01:04 PM   #667
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Danny, why is airflow bad for the cells, and why does it raise the IR? Is it because the chemical reaction can't happen as fast when it is cold?
-Josh
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Old 10-29-2005, 12:00 AM   #668
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Cold or cool cells will not charge as well thus keep the voltage lower and IR higher.

Typically a pack should be atleast 70-75 degrees to have a good charge with no airflow. If the pack is below that temp you can bump up the peak detect some to help it get a better charge.
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Old 10-29-2005, 04:42 AM   #669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trf racer
can anyone tell me wether there is a problem with the ib3600 cell.someone told me the ones with the white end covers,near were the positive button is that they are a faulty batch and the new batch have a black cover ring like all gp batteries,anyone confirm this please

anyone got an opinion?danny?
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Old 10-29-2005, 10:26 AM   #670
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We've sold many IB3600 with white washers and they worked well but some did report that they would go soft after a few minutes. From time to time there could be the odd cell that had an issue within a pack which would lower the packs capacity.
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Old 10-31-2005, 03:52 PM   #671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danny/SMC
We've sold many IB3600 with white washers and they worked well but some did report that they would go soft after a few minutes. From time to time there could be the odd cell that had an issue within a pack which would lower the packs capacity.
is this possibly lightly with 5 packs of batteries?
also a factory driver for a certain team has experienced this problem and that same team give him replacemnts with the black washer.
do you think i have a right to a replacement from the matcher?
all packs go soft in the 3-4 min mark.
my gearing and mottor set up is perfect also.
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Old 10-31-2005, 06:18 PM   #672
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I have experienced this problem also. I'll try to test each cell and it turns out there is only one cell that cause a problem, not the entire pack.
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Old 10-31-2005, 07:44 PM   #673
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danny/SMC
Yes we will suggest what works best for performance and life expectancy. The fact is that some racers will abuse their packs to get the maximum power out of them at the expense of life expectancy.

I am not dis-agreeing with you Danny. I would just phrase it differently. I would say some racers will seek out ways to get maximum power out of them. This may shorten the competitive life of the battery.

Just like F1 cars screaming along at 20k rpm that motor is not going to work a few weeks in the future but man what a sound while it is. I am new to racing again, sort of, and I am looking for the limits of battery output these days. Once I find them I can tie performance level to my budget and goals. I just know the batteries were putting out more watts at a higher temp, and I am looking for confirmation. Can you e-mail me with any other battery info?

BTW, thanks for supporting this thread. I am using SMC cells exclusively.
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Old 10-31-2005, 09:10 PM   #674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trf racer
is this possibly lightly with 5 packs of batteries?
also a factory driver for a certain team has experienced this problem and that same team give him replacemnts with the black washer.
do you think i have a right to a replacement from the matcher?
all packs go soft in the 3-4 min mark.
my gearing and mottor set up is perfect also.
It's a touchy thing for me to say because some have had good results with the 3600s and others not so good. I know if a customer of ours contacts us a with a new pack and isn't happy with it we will do everything that is needed to make him happy. I suggest you contact the matcher and see what they can do to help you out.
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Old 10-31-2005, 09:13 PM   #675
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beerbarron
I am not dis-agreeing with you Danny. I would just phrase it differently. I would say some racers will seek out ways to get maximum power out of them. This may shorten the competitive life of the battery.

Just like F1 cars screaming along at 20k rpm that motor is not going to work a few weeks in the future but man what a sound while it is. I am new to racing again, sort of, and I am looking for the limits of battery output these days. Once I find them I can tie performance level to my budget and goals. I just know the batteries were putting out more watts at a higher temp, and I am looking for confirmation. Can you e-mail me with any other battery info?

BTW, thanks for supporting this thread. I am using SMC cells exclusively.

Your wording is real good.

I would follow what we reccomend on our website it seems to work real well and is relatively easy on the cells. I'm sure some of our drivers will read this thread and may say what they have been doing to get more power. The one thing I can think of is higher amp rate to charge at. This should increase power but may hurt life expectancy.
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