Novak Vulcan Spec - Stock Motors
08-11-2013, 06:47 PM
#16
The vulcan spec 21.5t is pending approval, and will be approved soon... Roar got caught up with the d3.5 17.5t fiasco, which delayed everything else.....
01-08-2014, 08:49 AM
#17
Been running a 13.5 vulcan w HT rotor in WGT for a bit, thought I would share some notes.
The Novak HT rotor is very strong. This seems to make timing and gearing changes more sensitive compared to the standard rotor. Rolling out around 80mm with 30 deg timing feels like a light switch with narrow power band. I found the higher I could roll out the stronger this combo felt. Rolling out around 90mm with 10 deg of timing on the sticker is a good point to start from. No tuned D3.5 speed, but pretty good.
The Novak HT rotor is very strong. This seems to make timing and gearing changes more sensitive compared to the standard rotor. Rolling out around 80mm with 30 deg timing feels like a light switch with narrow power band. I found the higher I could roll out the stronger this combo felt. Rolling out around 90mm with 10 deg of timing on the sticker is a good point to start from. No tuned D3.5 speed, but pretty good.
10-21-2015, 02:46 PM
#18
The 12.5mm rotor is very strong, and will pull hard on all ferrous surrounding hardware... Non ferrous metals should be used as fasteners with this motor....
10-26-2015, 02:46 PM
#19
Time to test guys.....
02-13-2016, 02:31 PM
#20
Still no chance to test, but I am working on it.... Anybody else running Novak ???...lol... I guess I'm the only one then....
02-14-2016, 12:20 PM
#21
Tech Regular
, I run a Vulcan 17.5, and it is my favorit motor, over X20 and others. It has tons of bottom power, and top speed.
02-14-2016, 01:22 PM
#22
It sure felt like I was the only one .... Good to know I was not alone, and as I suspected, the bottom end power is very good...
02-14-2016, 06:24 PM
#23
02-24-2016, 12:03 PM
#24
Good... Don't forget the titanium screws(#ptk-t-4009), and Aliexpress m2.5x10 titanium backplate screws.... 500k more rpms + more torque and less weight, less cogging... It's the way of the future....
Last edited by bertrandsv87; 02-24-2016 at 03:12 PM.
02-25-2016, 01:21 AM
#25
As someone who took electromagnetism physics in college and knows a little about how eddy current or Lenz braking works, I say Fantom is lying through omission and I was going to just leave it at that but...
Then I realized that I can TEST this as well!
*gets out G-force motor analyzer, hooks up Trinity 13.5 motor, powers on*
It's simple, if a steel screw is bad and an aluminum screw is better, then NO SCREW AT ALL must be GREAT!.... right guys? No metal at all, no supposed power and rpm robbing Lenz effect!
*loosens one steel screw, spins motor up to max free-spin at 7.5 volts, sees reading of 25,550, plus or minus 50 RPM.*
*removes steel screw with motor free-spinning, no RPM increase*
*loosens and removes a SECOND screw at free-spin, no RPM increase.*
And just to top it off, putting the screws back in resulted in no RPM drop either.
Well, so much for that.
If i had a meter that could spin my 3.5 up to its free-spin limit of about 70,000 you might see a difference, but who cares at that level.
Then I realized that I can TEST this as well!
*gets out G-force motor analyzer, hooks up Trinity 13.5 motor, powers on*
It's simple, if a steel screw is bad and an aluminum screw is better, then NO SCREW AT ALL must be GREAT!.... right guys? No metal at all, no supposed power and rpm robbing Lenz effect!
*loosens one steel screw, spins motor up to max free-spin at 7.5 volts, sees reading of 25,550, plus or minus 50 RPM.*
*removes steel screw with motor free-spinning, no RPM increase*
*loosens and removes a SECOND screw at free-spin, no RPM increase.*
And just to top it off, putting the screws back in resulted in no RPM drop either.
Well, so much for that.
If i had a meter that could spin my 3.5 up to its free-spin limit of about 70,000 you might see a difference, but who cares at that level.
02-25-2016, 11:19 AM
#26
Tech Regular
?? Are you getting more rpm and torque by changing screws ? How ?
02-25-2016, 01:16 PM
#27
More power, more torque by reducing the magnetic drag on the rotor caused by non energized stationary ferrous metals that are too close to the motors magnetic field... It is best for the rotor to only be attracted to the coils, and nothing else... Any interference will cause energy losses in the motor, and more heat... You can also gear one tooth higher on the pinion with no punch lost in the infield...Good for 0.3sec per lap...lol...
Don't believe the "so called"college students of electromagnetism: most sleep in class and smoke all day....
Don't believe the "so called"college students of electromagnetism: most sleep in class and smoke all day....
Last edited by bertrandsv87; 02-25-2016 at 01:27 PM.
04-15-2016, 11:53 PM
#28
Tech Regular
Mayby a dump question. But can I replace my 12.5 rotor with an 13.0mm without changing other parts, and what will that benefit ?
I run the stock spec Vulcan 17.5T with 12.5 rotor and yellor stator, all standard I think. I am lokking fr some more power, and don't know if I can du anything on the motor side.
I run the stock spec Vulcan 17.5T with 12.5 rotor and yellor stator, all standard I think. I am lokking fr some more power, and don't know if I can du anything on the motor side.
04-16-2016, 07:03 AM
#29
You might want to go with ceramic bearings, and polish the rotor ... After that, power will depend more on rotor strength, stator resistance/alignment, etc....
04-17-2016, 12:55 AM
#30
Tech Regular