Ropes

iTrader: (41)

I can attest for the durability of Dobbs' XI setup...I've personally sent him into the wall, the pipes, and off the track several times without any hint of a ball stud failure. Now the state of his VTA body....that's another story.

Dobbs

iTrader: (31)

Shoo-goo fixes everything!

kufman

iTrader: (6)

Racer649

anyone have a starting set up for the XI sport with carbon chassis for the black carpet. USGT or VTA ? I have been looking at past post but can’t find anything
Thanks

Buroz888

I ran my grey carpet setup on black carpet today and it was good. On the pace, just a shame I was consistent enough..

I have increased the roll slightly by adding a 1mm shim on the inboard, top arm mounts. I also reduced the rear diff oil to 5k (I'll post a new form soon)

I also reduced the end points on the transmitter which took the nervousness out of the car, but kept the agility.

Dobbs

iTrader: (31)

My VTA setup for CRC carpet at our local track (80x40)
ride height front/rear 5.5/6mm
stock shocks
springs front/rear 3.0/2.8 spec-r
oil front/rear 40/30
droop front/rear 1/2mm
toe out front 1mm rear in 3mm
1mm shim in front of and behind front arm hinge pin
2mm shim in front of rear arm hinge pin
camber 1 degree front/rear
hpi vta tires sidewalled glued up front and rear
front shocks upper mount all the way in on top (hole 1 according to setup sheet)
front shock lower mount hole 1 according to setup sheet
rear shock upper mount holw 2
rear shock lower mount hole 2
front camber link 2mm shim on bulkhead outer most hole
rear camber link 1mm shim outer camber link

Racer649

Thanks I will give it a try.

tvih

I finally received the TrackStar shocks. Well, they do fit in place using the same ballstuds and all. And can even take the stock Sakura springs despite being longer, which is good since the springs that came with the TS shocks are very soft (funnily enough, because the long ones I got for my SCT has too stiff springs for anything but carpet etc, maybe even for that).

But that length is more of a problem than I thought. I guess I measured the originals a bit incorrectly - should've been less of an idiot an actually check the specs instead. As is, the shocks allow enough travel that the bottom of the car can just about touch the ground when fully compressed. The ride height ends up quite high unless you use the droop screws to lower it further. This means very limited shock travel indeed, though.

I don't know how much of a problem this limited will be. I imagine it'd mostly affect things when running into bumps. One thing's for sure, the original shocks do seem like the weak point of this kit. Seems like the slightest touch will twist the caps off their threads, which is probably why the shocks have slightly leaked, as I noticed had happened while taking them off. The TS shocks seem quite high quality and look sexy. Too bad there's nothing between the lengths of 48.5mm and 61mm. As is I guess this is one case where trying to save a few bucks may turn into additional expense instead.

Other than that, I also finally installed the aluminum steering parts and lessened what I noticed was excessive camber in the rear. The latter change should help hopefully with the loose rear I experienced on the track.

julieng

How can I increase on power steering on asphalt high grip track?

I currently have overall standard setup with softer rear spring (yeah racing trf springs softer 2 out of 5-which make the more stable at high speed) and standard front spring.

(0000000000)

iTrader: (2)

You can try softening the front, or putting a swaybar onto the rear. Both will give you more on-power steering, but will achieve it through different methods.

When you are at full tilt on your steering is the knuckle touching the c-hub (max steering angle)?

(0000000000)

iTrader: (2)

∆∆∆

Playing with your current droop will also help. Try one thing at a time and see how each adjustment feels.

tvih

Right, a question about the shocks because I guess it's better to just get it right and get aluminum shocks of the proper length.

The big bores, SAK-U314/PK, say on the 3racing site that they need the Ultimate shock towers on the XI Sport to fit. But the tower geometry seems pretty much exactly the same as the XI Sport ones? The SAK-X28/PK regular-size aluminum shocks are $8 more expensive, but if the big bores require new shock towers, that's a no-go.

EDIT: Finally found more about shocks earlier in the thread, looks like the SAK-X28A aluminum bodies are a drop-in replacement for the stock shock bodies, and slightly cheaper than buying full shocks. Might be the easiest way to go, then.

Kirneh

In my opinion the stock shocks are some of the best parts in the kit. Simply doing their job.

Henrik

leemaster81

got a TD10 v2. a few days ago $98 shipped.

In the process of building got to the dampers and 1 of 4 o-ring covers was deformed. long story short I made a temp fix just to finish the build. but that shock just feels different from the rest. Found the part I need is included with part #SAK-48A/v2. in stock for around $7 shipped.

My original plan was to give this $98 dollar kit a go. Maybe I should've read through the forum a little more before I pulled the trigger.

From my understanding, recommended upgrades are springs, steering, floating servo mount. springs being maybe the most important in order to get a good setup.

So im at 98 + 7 + 7 = $112
if i get any one more upgrade i will be in the $140 range.

For about $30 more I can get an ultimate 2014?

even with the o-ring cover problem I really like the xi sport and was looking to running it but my mind is telling me the logical thing to do is buy the ultimate and sell the xi?

(0000000000)

iTrader: (2)

You don't have to buy anything to enjoy this car. Just build it and run it. Once you get serious into it, you'll end up buying a bunch of springs, upgrades, tools, electronics, and spares anyways. If you are trying this hobby on a budget, the Xi Sport is an economical way to introduce yourself into the world of RC Racing. You will be able to learn all the fundamentals of tuning while operating a vehicle that can help you understand all the aspects of racing. But if you don't like it, then you can be happy that you didn't spend over 500 bux to realize that this wasn't for you.

I don't know where the 3Racing Ultimate can be picked up for $150 USD. If we are referring to the ebay deal, then buyer beware. That car uses a lot of aluminium parts that I would recommend be swap out anyways (Front Arms, Rear Arms, Front Knuckles, Rear Knuckles, Front C-Hubs, Cheap Looking Battery Holder, Spur Gear, Cheap Looking Rear Diff). Furthermore, as the Hobby King version of this car has shown, the quality of an ebay clone may not be on the same level as the actual 3Racing car. I built several 3Racing Xi Sport kits, and during the build, there were no shock problems or diff problems. I felt that it went together much easier than the Sakura Zero S's that I built before this kit.

The logical upgrade to this car would be the Sakura Advance. At approximately $250 USD, it is half the retail price of an Xray T4 2017 (for example), but a little over double the price of the Xi Sport. It uses the suspension & drive train of the Xi Sport, but you'll be able to notice the subtle differences in the design.

In short, don't feel any buyers remorse with your purchase. Enjoy the build and have fun racing.