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Old 01-14-2021, 03:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tamiya TT02 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
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TT02 Wiki - Post your setups, upgrades and home grown ideas here for us to read...

TT02 vs the TT-01
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/01/ta...irst-pics.html
New flat chassis layout - Easier to run LiPOs vs the cutouts in the TT-01s
Revised suspension geometry
Support for std spur gears

MODELS ----------------------------------------------------

Changes that follow are in comparison to the basic kit.
TT02 - Base Kit. Friction Dampers.
TT02D - Drift: Drift Tires, Hardened A-Parts, Oil Shocks
TT02R - Race: Rear Alu 3* Toe In Hubs, Alu Propshaft + Cups, CVA oil Dampers
TT02RR - Race+: TT02R + Adjustable Upper Arms, Oil Filled Diffs, Hardened Blue Chassis
TT02S - Type S: TRF416 arms, FRP shock towers, bearings,
TT02SR - TypeS Race: TT02S + Double cardan front drive shafts, rear lightweight universals, Rear sealed oil differential, front spool
TT02B - Buggy. Offroad: CVA Shocks, Double Wishbone long suspension

HOP UPS ----------------------------------------------------

Bearings:
#54476 Ball Bearing Set TT02: 8x 1050, 4x 1280, 4x 1150

Propshaft:
#54501 Alum Propeller Shaft TT02
#54502 Alum Propeller Joint TT02
Tip:
Put a 3mm piece of well greased silicone hose between the dog bone and the shaft of each wheel to reduce slop.

Motor Mount and Gearing:
#54558 TT02 Aluminum Motor Mount
#54500 High Speed Gear Set
#54875 Oil Gear Differential

Steering:
#54550 Low Friction Step Screws
- Full Upgrade Kit -
#54752 Steering Upgrade Kit, Includes all below.
- Individual Parts -
#54574 Aluminum Steering Set
#54575 Aluminum Steering Bridge
#54799 Hi-Torque Servo Saver or #51000 Servo Saver Black
#54248 Aluminum Turnbuckles 3x23
#50797 5mm Short Adjustable Turnbuckle End


Dog Bones to Universal Joints:
- Standard Steel -
#53792 Universal Shaft Assembly (steel), NOTE: Must also use item 54477 on the TT-02
#54477 Gearbox Joint for Universal Shaft (steel) (2pieces)
- Lightweight -
#53506 Blue Aluminum 39mm Swing Shaft
#53499 Wheel axle for assembly universal
#53681 Titanium wheel axle for assemblu universal (but this is very expensive)
#53500 cross joints for universal
#54477 Gearbox Joint for Universal Shaft (2pieces)
Tip: Run steel in the front, Alu is okay for the rear but the front takes a lot of wear and impact from crashes

Shock Options:
#54753 Super-mini CVA Oil Shocks, comes with med black springs
#42102 TRF 55mm Shocks

Chassis:
#54639 Carbon Damper Stay Front
#54640 Carbon Damper Stay Rear
#47339 Hard Lower Deck Blue
#47340 Hard Lower Deck White
#54926 Hard Lower Deck Black
#54733 Aluminum Rear Uprights, Gives 3* rear toe in for extra stability
#54549 Aluminum Rear Uprights, 2.5* Rear Toe In
#58584 Hardened A-Parts, Uprights, Hub Carriers, Diff Covers, etc

SUGGESTED BASE SETUPS ----------------------------------

Bashing:
Build to the kit instructions and have fun!

Asphalt Parking Lot Racing:
Front Diff: 300k-500k (or Tamiya #42247 Gear differential putty)
Rear Diff: 3K oil in the rear diff for low / medium grip, 5k oil in the rear for medium / high grip

Carpet Indoor Racing:
Front Diff: 300k-500k (or Tamiya #42247 Gear differential putty)
Rear Diff: 7k -10k in the rear diff for very high grip carpet.


ADDITIONAL RESOURCES -------------------------------------

TT02 Build and Review here
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/05/ta...nd-review.html

TT02 Tuning and Mods Guide
http://www.thercracer.com/2014/08/ta...-and-tips.html
https://www.rcdriver.com/take-the-versatile-tamiya-tt-02-chassis-to-the-next-level/


Gearing for 17.5t Blinky
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/07/ho...inky-with.html











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Old 02-28-2018, 10:19 PM
  #1711  
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Originally Posted by craig santry
what tires were you running?
Kit stock rubber tires, but I tried a different set that someone loaned me with the same results.

I am thinking that it is in the drive train because going straight and turning left there are no problems
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Old 02-28-2018, 10:20 PM
  #1712  
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Originally Posted by simple
...I'd also double check the bearings in the outdrives, as well as verify your steering travel is the same left to right, lock to lock.
Bearings are fine and steering is the same left and right
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Old 02-28-2018, 10:26 PM
  #1713  
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Originally Posted by f1larry
Any secrets on how not to pop out dog bones (besides not hitting anything) for a box stock (except for super mini shocks and aluminum motor mount) car?
Unfortunately no tricks or secrets, just have to replace with 53792 universal shaft assembly or equivalent
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Old 03-02-2018, 07:40 AM
  #1714  
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No testing this week. Damn weather. Question on motors now.
Im running a sport tuned which is about the pace we all run. Id likento go brushless for increaded run time not more speed. Would a 17.5t be roughly in the same region as the sport tuned but give increased run time?

Thanks
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Old 03-02-2018, 07:45 AM
  #1715  
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Originally Posted by Jay12341985
No testing this week. Damn weather. Question on motors now.
Im running a sport tuned which is about the pace we all run. Id likento go brushless for increaded run time not more speed. Would a 17.5t be roughly in the same region as the sport tuned but give increased run time?

Thanks
I could be wrong but I think they range between 23t and 27t. Do you have a model number you can provide?

I think a 17.5t motor would be much faster than the sport tuned.
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Old 03-02-2018, 12:43 PM
  #1716  
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I think increased runtime would be an incorrect expectation to switch to brushless.

Brushless provides reduced maintenance and increased speed/power. The gear ratio will be completely different for brushless, so if you go that route, you'll need the spur gear mod and go to a much smaller 64pitch spur than what is stock with the kits.

If you want more runtime, upgrade the lipo cells to a higher capacity.

Last edited by simple; 03-02-2018 at 01:34 PM.
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Old 03-02-2018, 01:08 PM
  #1717  
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so it was a 17.5t brushless i was thinking, i think the sport tuned is 23t (brushed) I thought they may have been comparable but maybe im off, maybe 21.5t would be closer?

yeh i already have the high speed gear set in. i will gear it to run roughly the same speed as i run now.
I run with a few other guys and we want competition so im not after higher speed
but in general if using a brushless system vs brushed if your doing roughly the same work then brush less is more efficient and so all else being equal uses less power.

its certainly true in other applications but other factors could be at play here?
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Old 03-04-2018, 09:05 AM
  #1718  
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My friends and I had an awesome weekend taking part in the Tamiya Euro Cup Stock class (TT-02 box stock, even esc and motor). I could win the class after hard fights through qualifying and finals.










Here is the full story:
https://www.facebook.com/blautalrcca...90338654417875


And videos:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?t=119s&v=XBJRy8YleXs

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WgXBs2NL-8U
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Last edited by wtcc; 03-04-2018 at 09:38 AM.
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Old 03-04-2018, 02:07 PM
  #1719  
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Fix
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Old 03-05-2018, 12:29 AM
  #1720  
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[QUOTE=wtcc;15173603]My friends and I had an awesome weekend taking part in the Tamiya Euro Cup Stock class (TT-02 box stock, even esc and motor). I could win the class after hard fights through qualifying and finals.










Here is the full story:
https://www.facebook.com/blautalrcca...90338654417875


And videos:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?t=119s&v=XBJRy8YleXs

Congrats with your win. Nice videos and pictures...
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Old 03-08-2018, 12:18 AM
  #1721  
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Default Torque Tuned Motor

Which of the kits come with the Torque Tuned Motor ?
The motor specs are not helpfull, some sites say Torque Tuned , other sites say
plain ol 540 motor.

The local TT02 race class uses the Torque Tuned Motor as spec motor, so I really need to but the kit with that included, not a kit with the old standard silvercan
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Old 03-08-2018, 09:30 AM
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All 2015 Super GT kits got one: Autech Nismo Nissan GT-R, Petronas Lexus LCF and Raybrig Honda NSX.
Also the Raikiri GT
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Old 03-08-2018, 10:35 AM
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I think a 17.5t motor would be much faster than the sport tuned.
My son runs a TT02 in our novice class, I started w/ the silver can, then the sport tuned, then a 21.5t and now a 17.5t. The car is definitely fastest w/ the 17.5t motor in it. I've gradually increased the speed as my sons skill has increased. This is all over a year and a half time period. ...keep in mind though that even if you put a 17.5 in the car you can gear down and turn your throttle down on the controller to slow it down (I actually turned ours down a bit as the 17.5 was a tad too fast for him).

The TT02 has been a great car, ...its pretty solid can take a beating and parts are easy to find and not expensive.
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Old 03-10-2018, 01:25 AM
  #1724  
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Just built my TT02 a few weeks ago. I got the chassis from the 99' Impreza kit which I originally bought for its rereleased body only, left the car unbuilt until I started running with a group of guys that does weekend parking lot racing.

I have to say I'm quite impressed with the kit even in box stock form, drives nice and the drivetrain is definitely much quieter than the TB01 I used to own.



I have since upgraded the driveline parts, as well as the steering. Threw in a set of YR dampers I had laying around.



The YR steering set is nice for its price compared to the Tamiya. I added two extra 3x6 bearings on top of the bridge that took all the slop out, however the screws need to be held by thread lock to avoid binding the bearings.

Now with the YR motor mount I'll be switching from 21.5 to a 17.5
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Old 03-12-2018, 08:44 AM
  #1725  
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I finaly got some run time last week. The vampire racing 17.5t is great! I geared at around 96/42 and ran at 1/4 timing on the motor and the car is exactly comparable to how it ran with the sport tuned running 68/22 when benchmarked against a few friends. For info 2 are running a hpi firebolt 15t which is actuqly comparable to the sport tuned the way we are running.

Question on my set up. I am.running super mini cva. Blue rear. Yellow front. I find thatvthe car is great but tlwhen it does let go the front hooks badly and i go tound in circles. Im running 2mm spacers in the cva's frontand rear to reduce droop but i still find adding a lot of preload to the rear to give me zero droop at the back gives me a very stable and planted rear end. I can take huge liberties going into conrners and its fine.
Any thoughts on that. Should i just add more spacers to the rear to reduce rear droop further?

Thanks
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