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Old 01-14-2021, 03:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tamiya TT02 Thread
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TT02 Wiki - Post your setups, upgrades and home grown ideas here for us to read...

TT02 vs the TT-01
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/01/ta...irst-pics.html
New flat chassis layout - Easier to run LiPOs vs the cutouts in the TT-01s
Revised suspension geometry
Support for std spur gears

MODELS ----------------------------------------------------

Changes that follow are in comparison to the basic kit.
TT02 - Base Kit. Friction Dampers.
TT02D - Drift: Drift Tires, Hardened A-Parts, Oil Shocks
TT02R - Race: Rear Alu 3* Toe In Hubs, Alu Propshaft + Cups, CVA oil Dampers
TT02RR - Race+: TT02R + Adjustable Upper Arms, Oil Filled Diffs, Hardened Blue Chassis
TT02S - Type S: TRF416 arms, FRP shock towers, bearings,
TT02SR - TypeS Race: TT02S + Double cardan front drive shafts, rear lightweight universals, Rear sealed oil differential, front spool
TT02B - Buggy. Offroad: CVA Shocks, Double Wishbone long suspension

HOP UPS ----------------------------------------------------

Bearings:
#54476 Ball Bearing Set TT02: 8x 1050, 4x 1280, 4x 1150

Propshaft:
#54501 Alum Propeller Shaft TT02
#54502 Alum Propeller Joint TT02
Tip:
Put a 3mm piece of well greased silicone hose between the dog bone and the shaft of each wheel to reduce slop.

Motor Mount and Gearing:
#54558 TT02 Aluminum Motor Mount
#54500 High Speed Gear Set
#54875 Oil Gear Differential

Steering:
#54550 Low Friction Step Screws
- Full Upgrade Kit -
#54752 Steering Upgrade Kit, Includes all below.
- Individual Parts -
#54574 Aluminum Steering Set
#54575 Aluminum Steering Bridge
#54799 Hi-Torque Servo Saver or #51000 Servo Saver Black
#54248 Aluminum Turnbuckles 3x23
#50797 5mm Short Adjustable Turnbuckle End


Dog Bones to Universal Joints:
- Standard Steel -
#53792 Universal Shaft Assembly (steel), NOTE: Must also use item 54477 on the TT-02
#54477 Gearbox Joint for Universal Shaft (steel) (2pieces)
- Lightweight -
#53506 Blue Aluminum 39mm Swing Shaft
#53499 Wheel axle for assembly universal
#53681 Titanium wheel axle for assemblu universal (but this is very expensive)
#53500 cross joints for universal
#54477 Gearbox Joint for Universal Shaft (2pieces)
Tip: Run steel in the front, Alu is okay for the rear but the front takes a lot of wear and impact from crashes

Shock Options:
#54753 Super-mini CVA Oil Shocks, comes with med black springs
#42102 TRF 55mm Shocks

Chassis:
#54639 Carbon Damper Stay Front
#54640 Carbon Damper Stay Rear
#47339 Hard Lower Deck Blue
#47340 Hard Lower Deck White
#54926 Hard Lower Deck Black
#54733 Aluminum Rear Uprights, Gives 3* rear toe in for extra stability
#54549 Aluminum Rear Uprights, 2.5* Rear Toe In
#58584 Hardened A-Parts, Uprights, Hub Carriers, Diff Covers, etc

SUGGESTED BASE SETUPS ----------------------------------

Bashing:
Build to the kit instructions and have fun!

Asphalt Parking Lot Racing:
Front Diff: 300k-500k (or Tamiya #42247 Gear differential putty)
Rear Diff: 3K oil in the rear diff for low / medium grip, 5k oil in the rear for medium / high grip

Carpet Indoor Racing:
Front Diff: 300k-500k (or Tamiya #42247 Gear differential putty)
Rear Diff: 7k -10k in the rear diff for very high grip carpet.


ADDITIONAL RESOURCES -------------------------------------

TT02 Build and Review here
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/05/ta...nd-review.html

TT02 Tuning and Mods Guide
http://www.thercracer.com/2014/08/ta...-and-tips.html
https://www.rcdriver.com/take-the-versatile-tamiya-tt-02-chassis-to-the-next-level/


Gearing for 17.5t Blinky
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/07/ho...inky-with.html











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Old 03-12-2018, 08:46 AM
  #1726  
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Originally Posted by Jay12341985
I finaly got some run time last week. The vampire racing 17.5t is great! I geared at around 96/42 and ran at 1/4 timing on the motor and the car is exactly comparable to how it ran with the sport tuned running 68/22 when benchmarked against a few friends. For info 2 are running a hpi firebolt 15t which is actuqly comparable to the sport tuned the way we are running.

Question on my set up. I am.running super mini cva. Blue rear. Yellow front. I find thatvthe car is great but tlwhen it does let go the front hooks badly and i go tound in circles. Im running 2mm spacers in the cva's frontand rear to reduce droop but i still find adding a lot of preload to the rear to give me zero droop at the back gives me a very stable and planted rear end. I can take huge liberties going into conrners and its fine.
Any thoughts on that. Should i just add more spacers to the rear to reduce rear droop further?

Thanks
To add: first impressions are also that i got increased runtimes over the sport tuned.
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Old 03-12-2018, 01:23 PM
  #1727  
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Originally Posted by Jay12341985
I finaly got some run time last week. The vampire racing 17.5t is great! I geared at around 96/42 and ran at 1/4 timing on the motor and the car is exactly comparable to how it ran with the sport tuned running 68/22 when benchmarked against a few friends. For info 2 are running a hpi firebolt 15t which is actuqly comparable to the sport tuned the way we are running.

Question on my set up. I am.running super mini cva. Blue rear. Yellow front. I find thatvthe car is great but tlwhen it does let go the front hooks badly and i go tound in circles. Im running 2mm spacers in the cva's frontand rear to reduce droop but i still find adding a lot of preload to the rear to give me zero droop at the back gives me a very stable and planted rear end. I can take huge liberties going into conrners and its fine.
Any thoughts on that. Should i just add more spacers to the rear to reduce rear droop further?

Thanks

You are the second guy on this thread who is running the stiffer spring in the rear. I have always been of the thought that the stiffer springs should be in the front and softer in the rear (all full size cars do this). I am running Super Mini CVA's as well with 40wt oil and the blues up front and yellows in the rear on a unprepared tennis court with good results.

I would guess if you took out a lot of the droop in the rear it is "forcing" the front to compress and work harder? Not sure.

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 03-12-2018, 08:28 PM
  #1728  
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Originally Posted by 1101
Which of the kits come with the Torque Tuned Motor ?
The motor specs are not helpfull, some sites say Torque Tuned , other sites say
plain ol 540 motor.

The local TT02 race class uses the Torque Tuned Motor as spec motor, so I really need to but the kit with that included, not a kit with the old standard silvercan
Also, if you’re felling a tad retro, the kit 58571 Porsche 911 Carrera RSR TT-02 I ordered came with the torque tuned motor. There is a yellow sticker on the lower right corner of the box indicating the Torque Tuned Motor and speed controller inside.
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Old 03-12-2018, 08:35 PM
  #1729  
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Porsche bodies traditionally are not great track / racing bodies.. but I still love them..

At our track, we relaxed the rules for VTA and I’ve been running the 911 RSR body.. it actually handles really well... albeit it’s not on the TT02 chassis.... but it can be made to work..

The VTA tyres are a good option for it.. they have the right tyre height and width!
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Old 03-12-2018, 09:05 PM
  #1730  
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Old 03-13-2018, 12:03 AM
  #1731  
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That's great!

What chassis are you using and how did you adapt it to the short wheelbase of the 911?

Thanks,
Ale
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Old 03-13-2018, 09:56 AM
  #1732  
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I’m running the TB EVo 6. You can adjust the wheelbase by about 2 mm a piece using the front a rear suspension spacers to get to 253 wheel base.. and are left with rear wheels just slightly off centre.
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Old 03-13-2018, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Raman
Porsche bodies traditionally are not great track / racing bodies.. but I still love them..

At our track, we relaxed the rules for VTA and I’ve been running the 911 RSR body.. it actually handles really well... albeit it’s not on the TT02 chassis.... but it can be made to work..

The VTA tyres are a good option for it.. they have the right tyre height and width!
Looks good! Yes, your 1973 Porsche Carrera RSR body is sweet. Relaxed VTA rules so you can slip in the RSR body? Clever.

The rear +offset rims are nice and look the part (are these the Protoform 2765-04s?). For a scale period concourse entry only, you could combine these with the front kit supplied Fuchs (understood they wouldn't work for racing as per the VTA rules).
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Old 03-13-2018, 10:18 AM
  #1734  
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Yes those are the protoform rear 31mm and they fill out the wheel arch nicely.

The suspension is standard width, only change was the spacers to move the arms forward in the rear 2 mm and front arms back 2 mm. That’s about as close you can get to 251.

On the front I’m running a 6mm hex because the protoform fronts were touching the steering arms. The back has a 5 mm hex.. I could go 6 to fill out the arches but then would risk rubbing the arches.. and narrower rear works better at track.
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Old 03-19-2018, 03:54 PM
  #1735  
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Hi. On the tt02 type S are you guys running the box stock inner lower shock mount on the rear or the outer to match the front?


Im confused. everything i read about setup when applied leaves me with quite a bit of rake on my car.
Going to the outer of the 2 lower rear shock mount holes sits the car flat. Thanks
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Old 03-19-2018, 03:56 PM
  #1736  
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Originally Posted by Jay12341985
Hi. On the tt02 type S are you guys running the box stock inner lower shock mount on the rear or the outer to match the front?


Im confused. everything i read about setup when applied leaves me with quite a bit of rake on my car.
Going to the outer of the 2 lower rear shock mount holes sits the car flat. Thanks
Thats with super mini cvas with equal spacers frontto rear. Blues on the front yellows on rear.
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Old 03-19-2018, 04:33 PM
  #1737  
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Originally Posted by Jay12341985
Hi. On the tt02 type S are you guys running the box stock inner lower shock mount on the rear or the outer to match the front?


Im confused. everything i read about setup when applied leaves me with quite a bit of rake on my car.
Going to the outer of the 2 lower rear shock mount holes sits the car flat. Thanks
I believe you mean on the suspension arms?

As per manual.. you have 2 holes on the lower rear arm. You use the outer hole.

I’m not sure I know what you mean by rake. If you mean the arms are sagging relative to chassi and Toor chassis is almost dragging on the ground.. you adjust ride height by placing the plastic clips on top of shock spring
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Old 03-20-2018, 12:25 AM
  #1738  
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Originally Posted by Raman
I believe you mean on the suspension arms?

As per manual.. you have 2 holes on the lower rear arm. You use the outer hole.

I’m not sure I know what you mean by rake. If you mean the arms are sagging relative to chassi and Toor chassis is almost dragging on the ground.. you adjust ride height by placing the plastic clips on top of shock spring



Hi, no rake is the angle of the car relative to the ground, so I am raked to the front, ie the front is lower than the rear.
and yes im talking about the mounting holes on the arms, so the type s reversible arms have 2 holes on one side and 3 on the other,

The manual has you build with the outer hole (using the 2 hole side) on the front and inner hole on the rear.

when I have mine set like that with equal length shocks then the car is higher at the rear.

All the info I have read says to use 2-3mm internal spacers in the super mini CVAs which I have done but then i end up with either a high rear OR too much droop at the rear.

So, by moving to the outer hole at the rear that seems to solve the issue, I just wanted to check if thats what everyone is doing or im missing something fundamental haha :-)


Thanks for sticking with me lol
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Old 03-24-2018, 04:29 PM
  #1739  
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I have a (1/10 1999 Subaru Impreza Monte-Carlo 4WD Rally TT-02 Kit (TAM58631) Don't know what the problem is, I have taken it apart and put it back together and it still makes this annoying noise. Check link for video. https://youtu.be/-wzrJChtS74
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Old 03-28-2018, 07:37 AM
  #1740  
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I would first check the gear mesh between the motor pinion and the spur gear.Looks like they are to close together.
And when listining to tho the video,the sound is coming from the back of the car

check if the motormount is using the correct holes,look in manual
.
And buy ball bearings,those sleeve bearings will slow the car down and also will cause way more wear on the drive train ect

Also get rid of all the grease,that will only be a magnet for dust and dirt
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